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Projects Mustang II removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BIG-JIM, Nov 21, 2013.

  1. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Hey guy's I did a search and couldn't find any information on removing a Mustang II on a 34 Ford chassis. I seem to remember a thread on it just cant seem to find it. Just looking for some tips. What cross member to use is my biggest concern.
     
  2. Xtrom
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 1,029

    Xtrom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Forman, ND

    You're planning on pulling an MII and putting a transverse Ford axle back in?? Then just grind the street rod stuff out and put a stock Ford crossmember back in.
     
  3. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Well it's actually an outlaw performance chassis that came with IFS. Was thinking of going with a 37 Ford cross member (because a friend has one) or a model A to get it down low.
     
  4. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    how far away are the rails? got a pic?
     

  5. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

  6. For removal I suggest a fire wrench..

    [​IMG]

    Replace with a Model A cross member and you will have a little more drop. HRP
     
  7. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Get an installation guide and read it backwards.
     
  8. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,065

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    sell the chassis it must be up some bodys street / trade a stock chassis
     
  9. Just cut it out...torch, plasma, cut-off, doesn't matter.

    What DOES MATTER is that you weld in some temporary bracing before you cut it off. Leave the bracing in until after you are done welding the new x-member in.
     
  10. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    I like this idea...:D
     
  11. 50flathead
    Joined: Mar 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,166

    50flathead
    Member
    from Iowa, USA

    Somebody wants what you have. Sell it to them or trade a stock frame for it.
     
  12. Somebody
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 464

    Somebody
    Member

    I'm all for this, glad you're doing away with MII junk. Make sure you scrap that crap when you get it cut off. And x2 on the bracing it up first.
     
  13. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,387

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Dont Like It? I am with the other guy do the frame swap.I personally like drop axles look under A's 32"s 33 34"s .But I also like to be able cruz down the expressway and not have my eyes glued on the road watching for pot holes,:D Like riding around on cut coils it sucks
     
  14. trailer-Ed
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,892

    trailer-Ed
    Member
    from JC, MO

    So I guess my 40 Ford is junk, just because I have a completley aftermarket Mustang II front under it? WTF I'm really not getting this web site anymore after 10+ years!!!
     
  15. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Don't get me wrong. I think a Mustang II is a superior suspension but it just doesn't look right on a fenderless car. And I'm not doing a frame swap. I wouldn't even change the front end if I was keeping the fenders on. Mustang II is not junk in my opinion.
     
  16. What " somebody " said about MII front ends being junk is the voice of inexperience talking. I had that set-up on my 40 Chevy P.U. (full fendered) and it was very nice. I'm glad you are going more traditional for your car, but try to save the MII stuff and sell it. I'm sure you'll do better than scrap prices. Just take your time with a cut-off wheel.
     
  17. remopar
    Joined: Nov 19, 2013
    Posts: 16

    remopar
    Member

    Hey; why not save yourself a lot of aggravation and mount drop spindles? I have 2 -mII front susp street rods. I wouldn,t change
     
  18. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    How about just cutting the rails behind the MII,then grafting on a new front piece from an original frame?Brace it first as someone else said to retain shape and squareness

    The piece would be sell-able to someone else, and the cutting/mods would be easier for you
     
  19. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,210

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    take your time , cut it out neatly and give it to me...lol
     

  20. Now we're talking ;)
     
  21. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    I'm going fenderless. And fenderless = no IFS
     
  22. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    This is an idea. Hmmm
     
  23. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,980

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Probably the best suggestion right there. You should be able to get a good stock frame and plenty of spare change to go towards building a fresh frame from that.

    Or as the others said, cut the crossmember off close to the frame rails and spend some time grinding it all smooth.
     
  24. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Okay guys we are getting away from my question here. What style cross member should I use? Model A or a 33/34? As I said I know there is a thread on one that was done on a 33/34 coupe but I can't find it.
     
  25. '33-34 crossmember. Reverse eye spring. Dropped axle. Bitchin'.
     
  26. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Reverse eye spring (Check) dropped axle (Check) now just need the cross member
    Thanks
     
  27. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    A Model "A" style crossmember will give you just a bit more drop, or more room for spring arch, whichever way you chose to look at it. Use the repro type '33-'34 radiator mounts and your in. As was said before, brace the living heck out of the frame before you cut everything out. I would be inclined to do as much of the cutting as I could with a 4 1/2" angle grinder and wafer wheels at the welds so that I could resell the cross member and suspension unit.

    Since you are going fenderless, '33-'34s ALWAYS look better with the front cross member moved forward a couple of inches. It does make radiator hoses a bit more of an adventure, but it really helps the profile of these cars when the fenders are pulled, and they end up looking lots less nose-heavy. Xman here on the H.A.M.B. has a thread going called "'34 My Way", I suggest you look it up and check out his front suspension set up.
     
  28. congrats for no ifs on a fenderless car. if you have the skills to remove that x member then you have the skills to fab your own new X member, especially if you want that car low. make the top flat and notch the frame for spring clearance. works and looks great
     
  29. oh I forgot to say X2 on moving the axle forward on a fenderlass car
     
  30. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,374

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Thanks for the suggestion. I looked up his build.... nice. For me though; I'm going to leave the front in the stock location just incase I want to put the fenders back on someday. I'm thinking Model A cross member and just fab up some radiator mounts. Damn I wish I could find that thread. Well off the the garage to start cutting it out (after I brace the hell out of it).
     

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