ok TIG guys I have some questions. I tested a Miller Diversion 180 a few years back at an NSRA show and have been lusting after a tig since then. I really like the performance of the machine, but given how much (or rather little) I'd be using it, the price is really more than I can justify. I have an older lincoln buzz box that the welding shop tells me I can convert to a scratch start machine for about $200. seems about the cheapest option but obviously no HF start capability. I've also found a Hobart Adi-364 1 welder. Single phase 220. AC-DC stick and tig with High frequency. It's complete with everything but the bottle and pedal for about $500 (and I think that's negotiable). so my question is what's the best way to go for an intro machine for a hobbyist (I still do some work on the side, but not enought to still call myself a professional these days). not sure why, but I like the idea of the older machines. the new digital readouts strike me as an expensive repair waiting to happen. any thoughts?
find the biggest machine with the highest duty cycle you can afford. i've used scratch start and HF start. i will not own a scratcher. i, too like the older machines. there's something about 'dialing in' your machine. i bought a miller 180 complete rig with less than an hour on it for about $1100 around 3 years ago. ask yourself what are you really planning to do with it then double it. budget accordingly.
I've got a miller maxstar 150 as a garage welder. I tried to like the scratch start TIG, but my Dynasty 200 HF had spoiled me. Maybe if I learned on an older machine it would have been different, but I learned on a Thermal Arc 185 which is a great machine even aircooled. Ok maybe if I practiced more with the maxstar that would have helped too. I ended up keeping the Dynasty in the garage for good, after the shop bought their own welder. The end result is worth it as if its fun to weld the outcome is way better. The maxstar sucks as aluminum isn't an option, otherwise I'd learn to love it as it's a low-budget machine. It does work good with steel and I rigged up a foot pedal. (don't really like the finger control as much) I do use it all the time as a stick welder though and rarely mig anymore. The small size of both machines is a big deal in my 2-car garage. The dynasty is on a skinny roller cart, and even with the big coolmate 4 underneath the total width is 16-18 inches, making it easy to sneak through a packed garage if I need to weld outside. I do alot of aluminum so a big water cooler makes a huge difference. I've got friends with the big old machines, Lindes and the like, and they are shop/garage welders that rarely move. Most of their welding is on a table, or within reach of the machine. Half my welding is on a table, but the other half is either outside or more than the 15' lead away. A quick checklist will help. -aluminum? -fixed, portable or semi-portable -space -cooler -electrical efficiency (inverter vs transformer) -duration -future uses. -local deals! Anyway probably doesn't answer any questions just information to think about. TP
I scratch start TIG welded for years, and it was OK. The lack of doing aluminum always sucked and I wanted something better. I shopped around, looked at both diversion's, but decided that they were too "hobbyist"? I just didn't think there was enough control or options. I wanted the Dynasty bad, but I just couldn't swing the cost. In the end I bought an almost new Syncro 200 at a really good price. Came with some rod, a thumbwheel and foot pedal. It was also in a cart. I love this welder, I don't know that I could have loved the Dynasty more. These days I weld aluminum more than anything and don't know how I got by with a scratch start. I don't know that a machine like that is in your budget, but I paid around $1500. The Hobart sounds like a decent option at $500, might be something to look into. How many amps is it? I imagine it's an older machine but that's not always a bad thing.
If your buzzbox is AC only it's no good for tig. Get a dedicated tig machine, you wil be much happier.
I bought a diversion 165 before I retired. I ordered a pedal from ebay for it (a heavy duty one unlike the plastic one that is with the 180). I got it from my local welding supply store that matched the price of internet sales. I think I that I gave $1300 for the welder and tank. About 5-6 hundred less than the 180. Mike
If the buzzbox is AC-DC, you only need a TIG torch with gas control in handle to be able to scratch start TIG welding. Those torches aren't expensive at all. Will nedd flow meter and bottle as well, but you'll need that for any other machine you get. You can not do Al, but if you want to give it a try, i's an inexpensive way to start. Take a look online or your local supplier for the torch head.
to add to the situation, I noticed that the welding shop is running a summer special on the 180 package for like $1350 new (I think that's what it was--I wasn't paying really close attention at the time). I think that's a smokin deal, but it's still more than I can/want spend now--hell that's the rest of patch panels, the wiring kit and the guages for my truck project. still listening to what everyone has to say.
That's a great deal on the 180. If you can't spend the bread and you have an ac/dc stick machine, I'd do the scratch start deal until you can afford a good machine Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I got an old DialArc from a friend who bought it new in 83' and used it just a couple of times. when he moved recently he didnt want to move it so he sold it to me for 1,000 with everything (cooler, compressed gas tank, pedal, tungstens, torches, etc). the thing weighs like 400 lbs. I took a class at the local JC and it's easily the most important tool in my shop. I couldnt have built my car without it. you can find them cheaper (700 range) but I knew the history of the machine and for me that made it worth it...that and my buddy needed the money
BUMP. When I use my tig welder my computer modem goes haywire and I have to reset it. It's on the other side of a wall about 20ft. away and it does have wi-fi. It may be the high frequency start setting on the welder. I thought there was something in the manual about shielding but I'm not finding it. Can I shield it somehow?
On my older Miller AC-DC Reverse with High Frequency switch, there is an adjustment in the front of the machine to set the gap for the High Frequency! Maybe you can find a manual online? Unplug machine first!! Pete
There may be an old thread on this topic. Whenever I drive up to the local welding shop the car radio goes out. I always worried what a TIG unit in the garage would do to the TV and computer. Bob
Back to FALCOLNSPRINT63: Why not buy the Hobart(after negotiation, of course),& sell your current machine to get back a part of your investment? You'll eventually have the TIG capability you're wanting as well as still, for now, having your existing stick ability: a "win/win" without a huge investment, especially if you take your time & shop around among your friends for used parts to complete the missing TIG parts. Once your friends find out your "haves/needs" it's amazing how things seem to turn-up as "available"!! As well as "clearance" items at welding supply stores,or welding shops discarding "obsolete" equipment(yes, it doesn't hurt to ask: the worst they can say is "no"!) Hunting tooling is no different than hunting car parts when you think of it like that. GOOD LUCK & HAPPY WELDING/FABRICATING!!
My TV and old Lincoln tig are within 5' of each other, occasionally it will turn the TV off during use. My other tig is about 15' away, and never disturbs the TV.
Quote from The37kid, "I thought there was something in the manual about shielding but I'm not finding it. Can I shield it somehow?" I have an old dinosaur that I bought new about 100 years ago. The instructions (and the law) state that the primary must be in a metal sheathed conductor no longer than about 20". I bought it for a job that I wrote an estimate on that I got. Then I had to buy the machine to finish it. (And learn how to use it) Since it required 100 amps, and I only had 100 amp. service, I applied for a 300 amp three phase service. The power company wouldnt give it to me so I just updated my service to 200 amps. The power company had to install larger wires to the neighborhood when I started using it. I rarely use it since I bought my spool gun mig. I just keep it in case I want to weld any 2" plate with a 3/8" stick.
^^^That looks like the one I have. The old timers say to lay the torch cable spread out on the floor not rolled up and hanging on a hook.
=============== I occasionally TIG weld aluminum up to maybe 1/8 inch or so with my Lincoln AC/DC tombstone and a scratch kit and hi-freq starter I bought from Grainger around 1998. The air cooled TIG torch gets pretty damned hot pretty quick.
I've got a late 70's era Miller 330 A/BP stick/TIG welder that I bought for $200 years ago.It's as big as a small fridge and weighs in at 900lbs,but it's a really smooth running machine.Because of the size and weight you can buy these behemoths cheap!If you have the room for one keep your eye on the craigslist-They made a bunch of them over the years.
I have a miller 330a b/p set up for tig as well.. Awesome machine ! Its for sale..... Pm me if interested.. Dave Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I bought my Lincoln Squarewave 175 on Craigslist for $800. Try it before you buy it. Certainly not the latest technology and certainly not the best machine you can find. Will do anything a hot rodder will ever need to do. I'd like more features but for sure, adjustable pre & post flow, frequency adjustments and such. I saw a Lincoln Precision TIG 175 for sale her locally about a month ago for $1100, I called the guy and it was already gone. Otherwise I'd sell my Squarewave for $750 and for $350 I just got all the features I want. Just my $.02. Andy from STL
Curious how you made out with the Hobart. Mine has worked flawlessly for over the 30 years I've had it. It's life before I got it was spent making doors and windows for ships. It produces welds that have been accepted by NASA for shuttle parts and also jobs for the big 3 auto makers plus countless contract jobs from various machine shops. Definitely a workhorse. Got it for free and cost $300 for a new torch and regulator. Made double that on the first job it did.
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