Tech: Cheap Ford Falcon Disc Brakes

Just found this, really good stuff, but as far as I know the scarebird stuff uses the smaller gm calipers and 10" rotors, so it would not have as much braking force as this deal. Nothing wrong with that, the original sixties ford front discs were 10", just something to be aware of, comparing this deal to the scarebird stuff is apples and oranges.
I cant speak for down in the states, but around here, if you DO see a Granada/Monarch in a wrecking yard, the spindles will be LONG gone. Everybody and thier dog knows about using the granada spindles, including the wreckers, and if you DO find them in a wreckers, they will not be cheap, bump-steer issues or not.

 

Most brake setups meant for the street lock up the fronts earlier than the rears.
Because amateur drivers don't know what to do when the rears lock up and the car starts swapping ends...

So unless there is a problem with the brake balance with too much bias to the rear, increasing the front brakes by that much of a margin will only decrease how much the rears are helping to slow the car down.

Because the limiting factor was already at which point the fronts would lock up...

 

those brackets can be bought at any oval track speed shop.i used those brackets 25 years on a street car and never had a problem.

 

Oh, oh, here we go. Oversimplification, and I disagree. A larger diameter rotor will reach maximum braking torque quicker(more leverage, and we are talking in hundreths of a second here, which at high speeds, can equal feet), which, for the same reason that stiffer calipers do, will shorten stopping distances at high speeds with a skilled driver who does not lock the brakes.Assuming the same design and material of rotor, larger rotors also dissipate heat faster.Arguably, the leverage issue may be splitting hairs, the heat dissipation issue certainly is not.
But yes, ultimately, IF you slam on the brakes and lock them up, the contact patch will ultimately govern the braking distance.

 

Just finished doing a similar swap on my buddy's street gasser. He's got an Econoline straight axle, and an Explorer 8.8 with disc brakes in the rear. We used Speedway weld on rear caliper brackets, and modified them to bolt on the E100 straight axle. Then we got GM metric calipers, and Aerostar rear rotors. Took a day and a little over $100 to build up the whoe swap, and that was with all new parts from the local chain parts store, and no cores to trade in.

 

I was mostly talking about the difference in piston dia's, because that was what the OP referred to. ( so yeah, I admit to some over simplification... )

( I could have quoted his post, but its pretty old...)

All the things you mentioned have an impact ( and a big one, when there is really heavy use & and everything is dialed in right ), but when you don't have a good balance you wont be able to exploit the improvements.

 

Absolutely, I have no problem agreeing with that. Much the same as screwing engine parts together but not having the skills to tune it.

 

Exactly...

That's what I meant.

My wife's '63 ( Granada front discs & regulator, Maverick rear axle & drums, V8, C4) has a lot of front end bias.

That's why I thought putting more bias on the front might not improve things.


And for extreme use ( like road racing ) bigger is better.
No argument there...

( never had too much brake on the track, but I cooked a couple...)

 

sweet

 

The resurrection of this thread illustrates the gold that can be mined from just below the surface of the HAMB.

 

Great post, thanks.

 

Very well done tech thread!

 

I'm in the middle of doing this exact setup. Using the recommended 7/8 spacers leaves me with a sizeable gap between the front pad and rotor. Seeing that these calipers dont float like modern ones. Seems like a lot of distance to take up with shims. Longer spacers will cause the dogleg to hit the spindle. Anyone else experience this issue??

 

Those calipers float, so the gap will be taken up as the piston extends. The Granada rotors are a little thinner than the GM calipers were designed for. If it's in the mockup stage, you can use a compressed air blowgun into the brake hose hole to check travel. With that much gap, my concern would be the piston pushing past the seals when the brake pads are worn down.

On a side note, the 1972 Thunderbird rotors have the 4.5" pattern and use the same bearings, but are 11.72" diameter. They are a one year only deal, as the bolt pattern went to 5 on 5" and bigger bearings for '73. They cost about 3x the 11" rotor, but are an option if you want that extra bit of braking. Should just need to cut the caliper mounts a bit longer, and check rim clearance even with 15".

 

I loved the guidance on putting Disks on my 63 falcon, but I need help, after putting 3 master cylinder on it and a aftermarket residual valve since all three didn't have one it them, I still have a spongy pedal, I have used a power bleeder, and bleed manually using 1 gal of brake fluid, I'm lost what to try next please help

 

NO I had to buy one from Jegs and add inline

 

A video (YouTube) demonstrating the install , with the spacers, and tuning would be terrific - if one doesn't already exist.

 

A buddy of mine used a kit from auto city classics. May not be the same size rotor. $399 kit from 4 lug to 5 lug 60-65 falcon is very reasonable and worked well.

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Bringing this back up to the top. Great tech article!!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I just checked Speedway. It says they're 5/16" thick.

 

Started this project for my 70 mustang in 2008. Life (military deployments and retirement from the military)got in the way.
Rotors and calipers are sourced from parts stores, look that up yourself.

This is all Speedway motors sourced. Accurate as of 230 pm 22 April 2020
Caliper bracket 91641008 $9.99 X2
7/16-20-#4 AN "kit" 6172940 $29.99 X1
3/16 IF to #4 AN 6174029 $9.99 X1
18" #4 Brake hose 1064026218 $14.99 X2
Plus sourcing the necessary spacers to get the caliper properly positioned.
$89.94 plus shipping (get it over $99 for free ground shipping)

I grabbed some 95 Crown Vic Rotors and 71 chevelle calipers from a local pick a part in 09, Resealed the calipers after disassembly and inspection, turned the rotors and all in I am at $142.36.

I am a Machinist by trade so the spacers will be easy for me to do. Going to make them out of Ti since I have some on hand and it is light.