Frame boxing

I have looked on here, and I cannot find a good article on boxing a frame. I have the basic idea, I just want to make sure I do it right the first time. I read one once that said put the boxing plate 1/8" inside the frame.

 

I've never boxed a frame, but it seems like that recommendation would give you little more material to make a stronger weld....Maybe

 

That is what it said in the article.

 

There are several good reasons for that inset plate; Stronger, because the weld won't be ground away like edge welding can, also it makes the frame look less like a repro rectangular tube frame, and because it requires no grinding, that will make it go quicker...JMO

 

Check out the photos of Matt Tindall's SoCal frame. A bit more than 1/8" in, but looks great IMO.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255769

 

I put my boxing plates in about 1/2" to 5/8". It provides more strength and a little more protection for the lines that will run along them. I have pictures of it, I think you can see them in my build thread.

 

Thanks for the build threads. If I want to weld nuts on in the frame I should do it before I box it.

 

Yes. I used cage nuts.

 

1/8 is fine, we use 3/16 because it gives a little more thickness for tapping threads for non structural items like line clamps, etc. But that is just a personal thing. We also inset the plate a little to give a place to hide lines and it is easier to weld up.

Don

 

These are some pic's of the 1940 Willys frame I'm working on. The entire frame has been boxed in with 1/8 plate. Holes were drilled to keep the Willys frame design look. I stitch weld the plate every 3", each weld is approx. 2" long. All welds have been finished down for a smoother look. Some might say that is because my welds are not like the once were. But this is the way I like the frame to look after the paint is on. Next will be to prime and paint black. The car is going to be a non metallic dark gray.

 

In any case, whatever method or plan, take your time. Weld short sections. Allow time for welds to cool, and move around.

 

I took the box off tonight, and I have more questions. Do I weld braces to the frame and cut out the factory braces, so I can have a fully boxed frame? I would like to build a rear K member to reinforce the frame. I drive everything I build, and sometimes it gets put away wet. I will take pictures in the morning.

 

Here are some pics of the braces. Do I box as much as I can, build the braces I want, then remove the old braces and finish boxing. I am pretty sure I am making this harder than it is.

 

Hi,
What ever you do for boxing...consider mounting the frame to a ridged table. Square it up, make sure it's flat and clamped down so it doesn't warp and twist during welding. As mentioned go slow and keep the heat down. Depending on how you plan to suspend it you may not need to box the whole thing. As for the crossmembers, I would leave them in for positioning during boxing. You probably won't be doing boxing with continuous plates so you can remove the crossmembers and replace or re-make as you go.

 

Nice avatar. You got all the important stuff in one shot; scoot, 4x4, and project.

 

I like to set the boxing plates sticking out beyond the edge of the frame about one half the thickness of the plate used. This creates a right angle channel that you have to weld which gives good penetration. I also bevel both edges to create more surface area. After finish welding I dress the welds square and it makes for a nice clean finished edge. Of course weld sections at a time as to not distort from excessive heat.

 

Flush or step boxed is fine, bevel the edges well and a good competent welder the job will be good, its quite important to clamp down to a table and weld small sections at a time, its amazing how a bit too much heat will move even the sturdiest frame around.

 

Has anyone boxed a frame without a jig? Can it be done slowly?

 

Did mine without a jig. I went slow and it came out fine, square and level. As far as the crossmembers go, if you decide you don't want them later, you can always remove them and cover up the hole with another piece of plate. I ended up doing that also.

 

I have boxed several Deuce and 34 frames without a jig but I did place 1" square tubing across each hole and clamped the chassis to saw horses. It takes a long time (2-3 days) for me to do a complete Deuce chassis and a day to do a 34 chassis. As mentioned above, go very slow and test for movement as you go.I have warped a few by welding too fast and too soon. GO SLOW!

Here are some examples including a nice jig.

 

Got the plates built, just waiting for the parts from snow white.

 

They came out really nice. Good work.

 

X2 looks really nice

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

mcmopar Here is some photo's of the frame I did on the 1940 Stude. The entire frame was boxed with 1/8" plate. The frame was mounted on a machinist table to keep it in place. It was welded solid. Hope this is some help.

 

I don't own a frame jig or table, have done several chassis on sawhorses, clamp the frame to GOOD QUALITY sawhorses and take your time.

 

Haha, coil overs, discs, booster. That's about as trad as it gets isn't it??

 

Has anyone added a X member for strength to a factory frame? If so how do you figure out where to put it? I am not interested in putting a new frame under it, just make it better. It might not even be worth spending the time to do it, but I want to look at the idea. Also for the guys that want to have a pissing contest about "traditional" or not, piss off and start your own thread, this one is about frame boxing.

 

I apologize for the post I deleted my original post

 

The x- members are easy to build and also available from several sources. The location is up to you. Set up the drivetrain and build the x out of cardboard to see where it fits the best. Look at some here on the HAMB. Take the patterns to a good sheet metal shop and have them bent up.

 

I boxed a portion of my frame (from front cab mounts forward) as recommended by vendor prior to installing a Mustang 11 IFS. I used 1/8'' mild steel which is plenty.