Greetings all. I am in the process of putting my rebuilt 327 together to put it back into my '65 Vette, and have come across something I need to ask the wise HAMB brotherhood about. My balancer barely gets started on the crank snout when it gets tight. I thought it slid most of the way on before it started to snug up? I've cleaned both surfaces, but it still just barely goes on. Thanks in advance. Dave
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I checked the keyway and key, cleaned them up, no change. I guess I'll get a longer bolt tomorrow and try to draw that thing on.
Please don't use a bolt to mount the balancer. You can usually rent a tool from the local name brand parts store, most times for free. If it still won't go on you may have to hone i.d. of the balancer.
The strange thing is, this is the exact balancer that was on it before it went to the machine shop. Doesn't the mounting tool do the same thing as a bolt with a large washer on it? Just asking as I don't want to jack it up by doing it wrong.
Thread the mounting tool into the crank without being under pressure. When you push the balancer on, you are using the threads of the tool and not your crank bolt. Hope you received the same crank back, as the one you dropped off. Dad always stamped his initials in hidden areas that went to machine shops.
Thanks, makes sense now. I hope I got the same crank back too as they were impressed that it was some sort of factory polished special or something along those lines.
A good installation tool will have a roller bearing between the nut and the balancer. That way there is no drag on the nut, etc. My power steering pulley puller uses the same type of roller bearing washer assembly. Also, some shops bead or shot blast the crank and that might account for the snugger fit. Should go on though. Good luck..
Thanks for the input. I went to the local AutoZone and didn't see the right tool. I'll see what Pops has and go from there. There's still plenty to do in other areas, so it's not like this is a showstopper. I really do appreciate all of your help. Dave
Auto Zone has a decent balancer installer kit for about $45. It has9 different threaded adapters, the thrust washer/bearing, main shaft, bolt and nut. OEM p/n 27144. You have to see a counter guy; they are not on display - at least at my local store. If you try to draw it on with a bolt you have about a 99.9% chance of stripping out the bolt and/or the crank threads. The tool makes it super easy. Charlie
I thought I might have to talk to the counter guys, but the town is so small that the AutoZone is about half the size of a regular one. There's always a line, even if there are only two people in the store. I'll check into what Pops has or hit the real size AutoZone near work. Thanks again. Dave
7/16 all thread. weld a nut on the end, use a bolt coupler and the harmonic balancer washer to put it on. Keep the all thread from turning with the nut on the end and tighten the bolt coupler to push the balancer on.
'65 327 would have been press on (no bolt) from the factory, they were a pretty snug fit. Its been tapped for a bolt since then be sure when you use the installation tool to thread it in the crank till it stops then back it out a full turn so it doesn't get locked in the end of the crank.
7/16" fine thread evidently? I may do that as I like to make my tools. Seems that the key had divots in it that roughed-up the corners. I used a small model file and took the high spots off. This helped a bit. Now it's tool time. Thanks for the tip, Russco. So there was no center bolt on the balancer originally? Thanks. Dave
If I recall correctly the only 327 engines without a balancer bolt were 250hp. My dad's all original 63 340hp roadster has a factory balancer bolt. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Okay. Mine is an L-79. 350hp 327. It has that extra Idler on the driver's side to go with the smaller belt that only went to the H2o pump and crank pulley. Maybe that explains it? Dave
My 67 327 did not have a center bolt. When installed my crank I just tapped it in with a hammer and a block of wood evenly. Didn't bind up. As a matter of fact when I went to autozone, the counter guy told me there was no such SBC with no center bolt to draw the pulley in. I just laughed and told him it was stock 67 and he had a confused look on his face... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
HA! That comment should also be in the tread about things you hear at the parts counter. My 327 does not have the bolt, but was not aware some of the higher hp ones did.
I always used a block of wood and a small sledge hammer to tap the balancer on evenly till it stopped...no bolts.
Some of the higher H.P. 327's did have a threaded crank with a washer & bolt. 375 horse versions had a very special balancer,and I am not sure but that L-79 might have one of those as well,look at the back side of it and you will see what I am talking about.
I have heard the fuely 327's had bolts. I have 2 327's that are hi perf that didn't originally.I tapped them both. One an HD suffix code and One HQ suffix code. I've seen them without up til around 1970 or so. Probably when they figured it wasn't such a good idea just To save the cost of the bolt.
heat the balancer hub, push on. simple. yes the "higher" horse power, with the BIGGER balancer did bolt on. Lower horse power/smaller balancer pressed on.
I used the old heat trick on my OT 364 ci L-76 for it's balancer/crank pulley install after a cam swap as they wanted it drawn onto the crank snout to over 300 lb ft! ! ! Then throw away that bolt and install the new one to some low torque and then so many degrees. That worked so well I may just do that here. I didn't notice anything special on the back side, just some lightening holes. It is pretty hefty. I'll try to post a picture tonight.
I set the balancer on a hot plate for 10-15 mins. You are looking for around 200*f not much more. Polish up the crank and inside with a red scotchbright before you set it on the hot plate. Coat the snout of the crank and seal with hot oil as well as the balancer inside and out. Put it on the crank and start your bolt. This is real important !!!! Set your torque wrench for 50 lbs and use that to draw the balancer on.
I used a $30 balancer tool from Jegs. Does your vette balancer have the fins on it? Those are rare & $$. I think it's an 8" https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349276-harmonic-balancer-327-w-sphiperf.aspx I finally found a 6-qt trap door oil pan for mine
Wow, that's wild! Mine looks just like that without the fins. I was thinking about going with a classic-looking finned cast-aluminum oil pan, but installed the original for sake of time and cost.
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