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'61 235 into a '50 3100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jrdamien, Nov 14, 2013.

  1. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Could really use some help. I'm doing a frame up build per my "Budget Build" thread and have the frame ready to paint but need to know this first.

    How do I mount a '61 235 into a '50 3100 chassis?

    Here's the frame:

    [​IMG]

    I removed the original trans x-member. I know this 235 has front, side and bellhousing mounts. I'd like to use the front and rear mounts but it doesn't seem like that stock rear x-member will work.

    Who's done this and can tell me how to do it?
     
  2. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    What are you useing for a tranny?
     
  3. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    A T5...hopefully.
     
  4. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You could use the front saddle mount and the bellhousing side mounts and that would be it. You use a crossmember and tranny mount but not necessary.
     

  5. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    The front saddle mounts are what, exactly? Not the same as the 216 mount is it?

    The bellhousing side mounts on that later bellhousing mount to that stock crossmember?
     
  6. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    The front would be the same as the 216.
    You would use the same crossmember that came with the truck for the bellhousing mounts.
    Looks like the crossmember in your picture is bent to me.
     
  7. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    OK I thought the front mounts were towards the side of the later 235, not in the middle like the 216.

    That member is bent. It will have to be massaged before finishing. Perhaps I am seeing it wrong in my minds eye - doesn't seem like there's enough clearance for the bellhousing and trans to sit atop that x-member.
     
  8. I put a 54 235 bolted to the original 3 speed in my truck back when i got it like 18 years ago. It used all the exact same mounts as the 216. Not sure if the later 235 youve got is different... you will obviously have to modify the tranny mount for the t5.
     
  9. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    When I get home tonight I could take some pictures.
    I just removed a 235 out of a 50 3100 truck the 235 was a 57 year model and I beleve thay are the same.
     
  10. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Yes, the mounts are very different.
     
  11. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Ya I would LOVE to see some pics. The more detailed, the better. :)
     
  12. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You can see there is a bracket behind the timing cover for the front mount.
    I am unable to find the bellhousing but the mounts will set on top of crossmember between bellhousing and crossmember.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You can see the clean spot on the crossmember where the belihousing set.
     
  14. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,631

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

  15. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Well it is and it isn't. I'd say about 75% of all info regarding anything on the internet is of the "I hear it works, but am not sure/I think I remember maybe seeing it done like that maybe/If it's this version of whatever and not that version then it should work but I don't really know." And this is in the rare instance where complete sentences (accompanied by actual punctuation) are used.

    The other 25% is "I have done it, know how it is done, and here's how to do it." Nothing wrong with having a nice, clear and concise thread on the matter with pictures and links...redundant or not.
     
  16. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Yessir, those are perfect. Many thanks.
     
  17. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Do ya'll think that x-member can be hammered out without heating, or...?
     
  18. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Looks like its going to take some heat. That crossmember is some tuff stuff.
    If you need that front bracket behind the timing cover PM me I can ship it out to you.
     
  19. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Hey Salt. I have the original bracket. It 'looks' the same. Do you know if they are? If not we'll have to deal on your bracket.
     
  20. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    You can drill your '61 front motor plate and mount it to the stock hole locations (dimensions and a template can be found on Stovebolt.com under Tech Tips), You can use a '48 - '53 bell housing that should mount directly to your cross member. Looks like your cross member is a little wonky though, it will have to be straightened or replaced. The bell housing will bolt to the back of your '61 235. No tranny X-member will be needed.
     
  21. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Let me know if you need the front mount parts and I have a cross member in a 48 frame I could cut out for you also.
     
  22. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    What about the '61 bell housing, though? Does that bolt to the stock cross?
     
  23. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    OK. I'm going to torch it tomorrow and see if I can get it bent back well. If not, I'll bolt in yours. Where are you located?
     
  24. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

  25. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    That x-member ain't light...
     
  26. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,601

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If you are going to try and straighten yours I would not remove it.
     
  27. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    I am going to try and straighten it first. Put the frame on the ground, put a small torch to it for awhile and then hammer it.
     
  28. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Speaking of such things, where do people buy tube steel that's right for cross member and various purposes? I want to add a rear shock bar and some gas tank cross members.
     
  29. melsfine39
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 235

    melsfine39
    Member

    Ok I'm putting a 54 235 in 48 GMC 1/2 ton pickup with a adapter plate and 2004r trans. Which means I lose the motor mounts at the bell housing. The motor has threaded bosses on the sides that the factory used for mounts in sedans with powerglides. Here's what I did for mounts. The mounts I made bolt in rather than welded in case I ever want to change to a V8. I'm using the front mount a long with the two side mounts made from a universal Chevy V8 set and a new cross member for the rear of the trans. If you need tubing or any type metal try Speedymetals.com they sell any type or size metal you need. Mel:D
     

    Attached Files:

  30. jrdamien
    Joined: Sep 27, 2013
    Posts: 72

    jrdamien
    Member

    Do you lose the bell housing mount because of the adapter for the 2004r?

    Thanks for the link. I have a local supplier here but I'm wondering, too, what "kind" of steel or tubing is the same or better than what the frame is made out of?

    What thickness of tubing should I be using to meet or exceed the strength of the frame?
     

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