wiring question

I have a bare bones 50 ford sedan..no air/heat, radio etc. 350chevy and a t400 tranny I'm gonna be re-wiring it with a replacement wiring harness kit. here's my question, do I also need to buy a wiring harness for my engine or, do these wire the engine also? how many circuits would I need? I will add air ride and a stereo later.. this is my first time wiring a car so any help would be appreciated

 

Yes, buy it by the motor. Don't go cheap, buy something with more than enough circuits for your add ons at a later date. Stick with a name brand, touwon't be sorry.

 

I used a rebel wiring 9+3 kit. It included everything i needed plus some.

 

I would suggest a 14 circuit unit. Make sure you get the fusible links for the alt and the main feed wire to the fuse panel. Your vendor can help you with that. I would recommend using relays for high draw devices like radio amps, elelctric fans etc.
Get the kit for the engine you are using and/or the column if you have changed that.
Split out the primary wiring from the rest and work with that to get the engine to run and alt to charge then work with the rest of the circuits.

 

I just installed a Rebel 9+3 in my 49 Ford Sedan.

Quality product, good price, great support.

Rich

 

X2 for rebel

 

Thanks all,, I went with the Rebel 9+3. I've started wiring , and so far so good!! great quality product, and lots of info here on the HAMB!!

 

I always buy wiring harness kits by the column used, not by motor choice. It's much easier to match the column than the engine.

 

Just bought a EZ Wire 12 circuit for a project. Hope I did not make a mistake. Thoughts?

 

EZ Wire that I used a few years ago was fine.

 

I've probably installed 20 EZ wire kits in glass 32's and I've never had any problems. Take your time and make sure you have good grounds on everything.

 

If you are starting with a new build or gutted car what IS NOT in the wiring kits that you'll need to buy? Dimmer switch, ignition switch, on /off switches etc? All the catalog photos are so poor only the pile of wire can be ID'd. Bob

 

Painless

 

I didn't get any switches which ill be replacing..what is the best way to do my grounds??

 

I used a 9+3 in my roadster, great kit, easy to understand instructions. I made a steel bar with holes drilled and tapped for 1/4 20 screws, mounted it next to the fuse panel up high on the inside of the firewall pass. side. My roadster is fiberglass so I have everything grounded to that bar, and the bar grounded to the frame and the engine, it may be overkill but I've never had any problrms with flickering lights etc. etc.

 

Custompainter,with your metal body, you won't need any special ground wires plates,etc.

Just make sure there is a good ground wire from the battery to the engine, frame to the engine,and the body to the frame.

paint is an insulator, so make sure there is good clean metal to metal contact at all ground points

 

I've used EZ wire on my last two builds, nice kit, good price and an easy install. I'm going to use a Rebel kit in my 37 Ford Coupe though, just because I've heard good things and want to try it out.

 

I have used 2 of the ez 21 circuit kits. Good price,good kit. Plenty of circuits if you want to add on later.

 

I've used all kinds of aftermarket and stock replacement harnesses through years , but I've found a great harness that I've used recently so I'll jump in & give 'em some props . The last 2 Shoeboxes I've had my hands in building have gotten wiring from CENTECH WIRING . I used the K40-B harness , which comes with a dash ignition switch , but you can use a K20-B if you're using a GM column . They have plenty of other harnesses also , just go to WWW.CENTECHWIRE.COM & look around . Very good quality product , and nice guy makin' them . You can call him & he'll help you get the harness you need .

 

A good ground from battery to the frame, and from frame to the body. Make sure the contact point is clean, bare metal before anchoring the grounds. What is needed for grounds throughout the car depends on the car. You want all your lights and accessories to be grounded well, so if they have a separate ground wire, then take it to the closest frame point, as body panels will often be bolted connections, and each bolted connection adds resistance to the ground point.

 

Depends on the kit. The last kit I purchased had headlight switch, and dimmer switch in it. Most have had no switches, and I had to either use existing, or purchase all new.

 

Thank you! So step one is to find switches you like the looks of, then hope they are compatable with the "kit" you wind up buying. How does one know the switches are 6 or 12 volt? Bob

 

It doesn't matter. I use 6V switches all the time. they are actually safer and built better than the 12V units. 6V switches are heavier due to carrying twice the amperage as the 12V units. Most of the universalfitall kits are made for universal switches with the stupid looking multilingual signs on them in stead of English. A sure sign that it is a modern streetrod and not an old hotrod. I detest them.

 

My favorite is Centech. Used many over the years and done them from scratch. Centech is my product of choice. Jim is a hot rodder and great to deal with.

 

Just wanted to add , my Centech kits came with the headlight switch , the high beam switch and the ignition switch . Hooking it up to an old-school signal stat turn signal switch is a breeze too (that's what I use) .

 

Yes, 6v. or 12v. wont matter really. 6v. are rated higher amperage usually. If you're talking headlight switches, then I usually go GM, as they're pretty compatible with everything, and get a GM dimmer at the same time. Speedway has them cheap, and come with a nice aluminum generic knob on the switch.

 

I also am a big fan of Centech either just the fuse panel or complete kits. I wire all the cars that go through our shop and it is the one for me. Jim

 

Here's a question....My car has no ac, heat, wipers... I'm installing a electric fuel pump with a relay. On my Rebel 9+3 kit, I have wires labeled ac/heater and wipers. Can I use one of those to power my relay/ electric fuel pump?

 

the ac/heat might be the best to use. What fuse size is in each circuit? You could always call the manufacturer to get the specifics. Also, is your intent to use this circuit to power the pump only or both the relay and the pump?
I usually wire a control lead from the gnd of the relay thru a switch which I locate under the dash that allows me to shut the pump off whenever I need to.

 

I helped my buddy wire his Model A with a "painless wire kit" last yr. I never did any wiring till than. (except for car radios) Very easy, every thing was labeled. We just took our time and finished his car in one 9hr day.