Well this sucks. Got the tri power install and was trying to set timing but the front carb has a horrible vac leak. Remove carb and inspected it and come to find out butterflies and not sealing. So I think I will ditch these carters and dig out some rochester carbs from my stash and order a kit to make a good tri power. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
best tri-power 2g is orig 2g tri-power end carbs. i never tried the change over kit to make fake trips. i have enough real ones
Wish I had a real one right now. Bought one with carter carbs and it sucks. I do have a stash of Rochester 2 barrel carbs. Hell I may just stick my 4 barrel back on it. Was trying to get a better look. But it has kick my ass for now. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sometimes it's best to sit back, relax,have a beer,and regroup. Get your head in a better place and attack it again later
Been running 3x2 rochesters on SBC since 73 with my 'homade' end carbs and progressive linkage........here are some things I did and found detrimental along the way. End carbs - remove power valve (just presses in and can be pulled out with pliers) then used a punch to set a 32 caliber lead shot where the power valve was pressed in. Remove choke actuator and b'fly/shaft and plug any holes by drilling and tapping and installing plugs or screws. Then drive both air bleed screws in until fully seated (you can also cut off the head and file down to make it look more like a factory secondary base if you like). Make sure the accelerator pump works very well as it is imperative to eliminate any hesitation when you actuate the secondary's. For performance, I went up in Jet size (4 sizes bigger than primary) but this is only necessary if you need more fuel (use your plugs to tune the jets). I also installed a regulator and run 4.5 pounds to the manifold. Not like i'm racing the car and need more fuel......only used for pranking around occasionally.......and the lower psi keeps from puking fuel all the time. Use a filter.......if you get trash in a needle and seat, it can be 3x the pain in the arse.......keep everything going to the carbs debris free (rubber lines can be the worst at sluffing trash and hanging in the needle and seat)..........Just for safety, I run an electric pump. This allows me to turn off feed to the carbs if there is a problem (this in only an option for wusses like me that don't like to get embarrassed on the side of the road)........like I said in the beginning, I've been running my set up for 40 years now and still works great........ And make sure the b'flys on all three carbs are as tight as you can get them on all tree carbs, when in closed position.....if you are using used carbs, you will find some seal better than others......I just happened to have several bases to choose from and used the ones that sealed the best......Hope you have the same success I have had!
You might find this link helpful: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Aftermarkettripowersetups.htm Jon.
End carbs need to seal totally to prevent any vacuum leaks. Factory bases were made to leak a little to allow idle. Only end carb specific bases whether factory or aftermarket are made not to leak at all . Hope this helps. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have read that link before it is very helpful. I am going to switch to Rochester. I will win at this. If it was easy it would be no fun. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
When the engine builder dynoed my 302 Ford with Rochester Tri power I asked him about the outer carbs leaking and he had a good laugh and then explained you jet the center car to get the correct air fuel ratio and do not worry about a slightly leaking outer carbs. When he was done all eight exhaust ports were reading the same exhaust temperature and the air / fuel ratio was good the entire rpm range. We ended up with 306HP / and 313ft/lbs from 3000 to 5500 RPMs with a mildest compcam extreme series roller cam/ rockers and 9 to 1 compression ratio running on pump premium. Now I have to get the body work done on the Falcon - install the drive train and see if the air cleaner fit under the hood??????????
If you're on a budget, you could always pull the butterfly's off the shaft of the leaky carb and just block off the base. It would be like running a 4 barrel with the look of 3x2's. Not a great idea, but it will get you on the road without spending a bunch more $$$$$ So many projects..so little time
Not really on a budget just hate going forward to go back. I want it to function they way it should. I have all winter to get it right Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This was a good read also http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/...ter_tri_power_tuning_secrets_1932_ford_coupe/
I agree.............what you described is exactly how I set mine up years ago. To this day, it still idles beautifully........and performs very well, as long as the accelerator pumps are in good shape.....On long hauls, I easily get 18.5 MPG (if I keep my foot out of it). Not to dis any of the vendors but I think they oversell the expertise needed to make the rochesters work.
For my 3 duece set up I purchased a complete kit from Delbert at Carburation.com came complete with base plates and progressive linkage. Rebuilt the my 2g's with the all of the new componets in the kit which was quite easy.
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