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Technical 48 bones w/ 8ba

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nosdan, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. nosdan
    Joined: Mar 27, 2009
    Posts: 230

    nosdan
    Member

    Will a pair of 1948 ford rear bones handle the torque of a stock 52 flatty (open driveshaft)? Or will I need additional reinforcement on the bones?

    Project is a 1930 Coupe.
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,506

    alchemy
    Member

    If you are splitting them to the rails of the frame, a stock Model A four-banger would break them. It's actually the motion of the split bones twisting as you go over bumps that cracks them.

    If you are using a flathead, why not use a torquetube too?
     
  3. woodypecker
    Joined: Jan 23, 2011
    Posts: 300

    woodypecker
    Member

    Add reinforcement.
     
  4. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,050

    19Fordy
    Member

    I think you need a torque arm. Check out hotrodworks.com and also do a HAMB search as there is lots of info. on this topic.
     

  5. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,577

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You are wondering now , so unless you add a torque arm you will always be wondering if they will break. Add a torque arm for insurance .
     
  6. Put the front of the bones as close together as possible, not out to the rails (if possible) and yes put a torque arm in there. Bones are made to center the rear not handle torque. That said. Bones alone will work and handle the torque......... for a time. .....
     
  7. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,050

    19Fordy
    Member

    Yes, but the time will be short. I am pretty sure someone posted (on HAMB) a cracked wishbone back by where it bolts to the rear axle/backing plate due to lack of a torque arm.
     
  8. OzyRodder
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 307

    OzyRodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I cracked mine several times, even with a torque arm. Had them triangulated properly just kept cracking them. As it is my daily i welded fish plates over the forgings and a strengthening rod along the top to the point where the tube welds in.
    Also welded a fish plate along top of the arc to tie the forging to the tube better.

    It was a trial and error thing and as they cracked I added more reinforcement. Have held up fine now for 6 months and about 3000 miles.

    If I had my time again( and I may do it next time they break) is build rolling bones style ladder bars.


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  9. OzyRodder
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 307

    OzyRodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1384057815.327753.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  10. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Check my build thread post 91 I think.
     
  11. aldixie
    Joined: May 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,662

    aldixie
    Member

    It's says in your build that you were going to some how tie the arms together behind the Uniball mount, any pictures of what you did?

    Thanks,

    Alex
     
  12. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Still need to do that. Just going to make a gusset out of 1/4" plate and connect them together so they move as a unit. I have driven it and seen it being driven from behind. Moves like it's supposed to.
     
  13. nosdan
    Joined: Mar 27, 2009
    Posts: 230

    nosdan
    Member

    Thanks guys! I do have the front of the bones almost touching (under the trans)... but I'm going to add a torque arm and triangulate the bones...
     

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