So I'm getting ready to cut a section of my roof it's a post top 2 door Galaxie, I'm gonna do something they call a Hollywood top sorta like a t top but with out the center support, iv seen guys on here cut the whole roof of cars and mold it the body to make it look like there was never a roof, so my question is what needs to get reinforced? Any help would be great thanks
The rear section of the roof could be supported with whatever piece you devise to go across the roof cut. Maybe shape a piece of 1" square or round tube to the curve of the roof before you cut it and build the new leading edge bodywork off of that, tying it down into the b-pillars. What -may- be requiring more attention are the windscreen posts. Because you do not want that thing just bouncing where-ever and when-ever it pleases. Depending on how heavy they already are you may fish plate the pillars, with the dash out of the car, down into the cowl. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Who said anything about the frame? What you are going to want to be doing with this 'Hollywood' top is build new structure into the top and windscreen frame/A pillars. Are you going to try sometype of removable insert? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
In essence, you need to reinforce everything you would as if you were making it a convertible! The Aztec had it, as well as the Sahara, though I believe both of them might have had completely removable rear roof sections, as well as over the driver/passenger compartment. So...extra heavy duty X frame added, 1/4" plate running under the existing rails, maybe an extra body mount or more. Body: I like to put 2x 2 tubing inside the rockers, if you are doing rocker repair. Extra bracing up the door jamb, across the floor under the back seat, maybe some more tubing triangulating the door jamb to wheel well, cowl to front jamb. I did a 56 Ford ragtop like this, as it was extremely saggy before I fixed the rust, just to be on the safe side. I can give you more detail if you like.
You should worry about the frame,Convertable frames have always had reinforcement in the B pillar area of the frame,,this prevents any sagging in that area when the top is removed,,,just a little can prevent the doors from opening smoothly. HRP
Is this what Porsche called the Targa top back in the 70s? Might want to add some strength to the drive shaft tunnel also.
Like this ? You'll need to beef up the frame from A pillar to B pillar. You'll need to tie the A & B pillars to prevent lalerat movement. Then you'll have to figure out how to finish off the cuts, that's the tricky part.
I have a post top car so the sagging part is pretty much covered when I weld the tubing from one post to a other and the roof
It sounds like you misunderstood where the sagging will be if a roof is cut like that? The guys here are saying the sag will be in the entire lower body, not just the front part of the roof skin sagging down.
i saw a pickup made into a convertible, the guy added a giant "console" between the seats to keep the floor from sagging. this is important because you can't/shouldn't rely on the doors to stiffen the body. as suggested stiffen the rockers driveshaft tunnel and frame.
OK, since that's what you are looking for (and I agree with the others, frame reinforcement is VERY important, too), here's the details The 2 x 2 inside the rockers is your main reinforcement. Run it from the firewall mounts all the way to the well wells. Use 16 or 18 ga square tubing. Next run a 1 1/2 x 1 up inside the door jam, latch side, as high as it will go. be careful with clearance of your quarter windows going up and down. Start this at your 2 x 2, then plug weld it to the jamb, again, as high as you can. Next I used a 1 x 1 to go from the top of the door jam piece, to where the 2 x 2 ends, though if it's easier, plate the wheelwell with some 16 ga. and tie it into that. Do the same at the front of the jamb as best you can, as well. You dont' have as much room but every bit helps. Next a 1 x 2 across the bottom of the floor, under the rear seat. If you can, tie it into the 2 x 2, by welding an extra piece of tubing to the top of the 2 x 2. I used L shaped sheet metal brackets to tie it to the floor, front and rear, about every 9 in. If your cowl area seems weak, you can run more tubing up from the 2 x 2 connected to the cowl sides, and then run some tubing across the dash area, wherever you can, though higher is always better (leverage). Good luck!
When you get started give us lots of pictures. I personally think this could be quite cool. Looking forward to it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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