I have to bend some new fuel lines and the gauge is too heavy for my cheap double flaring tool. Any suggestions of a good tool for the money? Is there anywhere to rent a good one at the big parts stores? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Search option is your friend. There was just a discussion on this subject in the last month or so. There is a hydraulic set at about $400 that is good and one from Eastwood and another company for about $250. Here is the link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838187
can't go wrong with one from Ridgid. I got mine form a vendor at a swap meet, i don't know who might sell them. good stuff and worth every penny.
The one from Eastwood is 'almost' fool proof and works great. It's usually on sale for less than $200. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Imperial Eastman for the hand sets. Also rebranded and sold by others, not as easy as the hydraulics but a lot cheaper.....
Got a Ridged from the Depot. Got a snap on from late bil. Snap works the best. WheTerhead has a good one also.
Maybe I should ask this.... How heavy should fuel line be? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
FWIW the rolls of steel line is much softer steel than the sticks the parts stores sell that are already flared on the ends with nuts. As far as gauge for fuel line anything they sell should work fine unless you are going fuel injected. You're only talking around 4-6psi for a carb where a kitchen sink can put out something like 25-30psi I believe. As far as flaring tools I have 2-3 handheld that are required to do flares on the car. For the price I haven't found anything that beats the flaring tool from Eastwood though. I think their "exclusive" rights ran out because the price went up about the same same other places started to sell the same thing. Eastwood also quit the "EXCLUSIVE" advertising. http://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ag&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE1529
NAPA sells 25' rolls of steel tubing in the usual sizes, maybe it's me but I have never had to double flare a fuel line fitting.
I single flared fuel line before and it was a bitch to get on and a bitch to get off. Trying to save myself a little frustration in the end this time.... Are you saying don't flare it at all?
I've had good luck with el-cheapo. I spend some time chamfering the cut end and I let the tubing protrude a tad further before clamping. And most importantly apply some anti-seize to the back of the flare itself, where the tubing nut rides, before assembly. You need to be doing a lot of flaring to warrant the expense of a $250.00 flaring tool.
take a look at Swagelock fittings. They don't require any flaring, look good, and seal very well. Not the cheapest but you don't need a leak, either.
Stevie, Have you actually tried flaring the tubing using your cheap double flaring tool, or were you deterred by an inscription saying "for copper, aluminum and other soft tubing"? If the clamp holds the tubing tightly and the yoke doesn't break as you turn the die in, you should be good to go.
I have used my New Brittan (NAPA) flare tool over 25 years. The biggest thing is to carefully square the end and debur I.D and O.D before you start. When you are finished, inspect the flare to be sure it is square to the tube or the joint will not seal. The kit comes with dies for the first operation on 3/16 to 3/8 tubes. Clamp the main bar in a vise and lube the die to reduce the effort required. If you are doing brake lines be sure to clean the lube off the tube or you will have problems. Brake parts do not tolerate any oil.
The straight sticks are more professional, the rolled stuff never lays right. You should have no issues flaring it. I have a cheapo flaring tool that does not even flinch when flaring.
I've double flared steel tubing for over 50 years and this new stuff that comes in the sticks at the parts house now is the pits for me to double flare. I never had much trouble with the tubing that looks like it has a zink or some other silver/gray coating on it though. I've had a Snap On flair tool for over 40 years and it's pretty well worn out. It did great when it was new though. I'm seriously looking at the Eastwood unit as I figure that between us my son and I will get 40 more years out of it.
Update: After watching several youtube videos and trying different technicques, the thing that worked in the end was applying axle grease to flare adapter. Who would have thunk it???
Deja vu all over again. There was also this one: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=710921&highlight=flare Edit: Cool that Randy (Deuce Roadster) has the last post on link above. One of his last. RIP.
Same here. I'd never even heard of it, until this thread. I've flared fuel line for years and never had a single flare leak.
Yeah double flaring fuel line is not needed, GM OEM flares are ISO bubble flares for years, really no need to double flare, only brake lines due to the high pressures..
Once when I was a kid, I knew a guy (who was a mechanic) used copper tubing for brake line. I don't know if he double flared it or not as I was too young to know but remembered it was copper. Best to my knowledge, the brakes never failed...
As indicated before, it's for the rubber fuel line transition to the frame. If you use a single flare, it's a bitch to get the line on and off.
Wouldn't a bubble flare be an easier alternative? all you need is a ridge or bump in the line and a hose clamp to keep it from sliding off..I could see where a single flare in that location would cut into the hose and bite into the sidewall of the line and send "rubber pieces" up the the carb...
Same here my friend,,I use the straight pieces and if I need to cut it to the size I pull out my K & D flaring tool. I have used this tool for more than 40 years and I won't say every flare is perfect I would say 95 % have been. If I was a doing this for a living I would step up to the plate and buy one like Randy (Deuce Roadster) had. HRP
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