I am thinking of reversing the firewall on my '30-'31 sedan body in order to clear the heads on my flathead. Can I get some pics and a little schooling on this? Thanks, Andy
Ok, it's just my opinion, but it doesn't look right. Model A firewalls have that rounded edge that sticks out past the cowl and I think when you lose that it just doesn't look right. There are threads here which document this work but most I've seen don't show good pics or really talk about everything involved. Plus, reversing them is not just a "turn it around and go" kind of thing. You lose a bunch of room because the toe board supports have to be moved back or shortened. The flange around the edge no is longer on the same angle as the cowl. Now, I made a recess in my firewall to have enough room for my SBC, which to be fair, I'm not crazy about either but I don't hate it as much as a reversed firewall. I laid mine out carefully and didn't have to relocate or shorten my toe board supports. My toe board is in the stock location which, in a tiny pickup like mine, 4" is a big deal. Like I said, just my opinion but think it over before you make the leap.
Search "firewall" (in topics) there are some good threads out there. Reversing, recessing, etc. Good luck with your project.
I have posted many photos of 2 different projects of my own. As F-6Garagerat stated it's not just a flip. And you you loose some foot room. It also involves steering and pedal access. Given all that I still like it better than what looks like a kleenex box behind the motor. You don't need to use all of the existing firewall once flipped to get what you need. It's a lot of work to make look good. I have even cut the center and turned it back around so the ribs are facing the correct way. Like I said,, not easy but worth it. My current A project I did quite the opposite. I removed the indent and pieced in another section to make the firewall the same from side to side with a Flathead in front of it. I love it. Do some search in my Posts. The Wizzard
I watched the video john~n~dallas posted. Why would anyone hand build anything you can't do normal service work on? Meaning hiding the Dist in a box? The Wizzard
With a little thought it doesn't have to look like a Kleenex box and can still look like a Model A. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Believe me, I know how much work you did on your firewall. And, the craftsmanship looks good. That given it just isn't my thing. I tend to do more in places it don't show so what I do see I like. My current project is Channeled 6" and will be full fendered without splash aprons. It is "STOCK" wheel base and Rad mounted in stock holes with full frame horns. I have space behind my motor and when the Hemi replaces the Flat motor I will be able to easily remove the Dist. I just look at things different than most. Must be the Gray Beard thing. The Wizzard
Thanks man. When I was considering flipping mine I looked at yours all the time. If I had flipped it, I would have done it your way no question. Like you said, to each his own. I just wanted to show there were alternatives to flipping and other ways to do a recess than hacking a square hole in the firewall.
Here are some photos of 1 I flipped around. For your Schooling info think about taking a French Curve and an Ice Cream cone and graphing them together, making it flow and un noticable. No problem right? The Wizzard
I'm getting ready to put a SBC in my 30 Coupe and am interested in this firewall mod stuff also. I've seen where some guys move the front crossmember forward an 1 1/2 to help minimize the firewall work. Any thoughts on that? -Pat
Not a bad idea as long as your not full fendered. It means a longer Hood and losing the apron between the frame horns, or modifying the stock one. The Wizzard
Myself, I would mod the firewall rather than move the crossmember. Doesn't take very much to start throwing the proportions off. An inch and a half doesn't seem like much I know. I personally don't like when the distance between the cowl and the grill starts to get stretched out.
Lot of work if you don't really need it. The reversing and the recess weren't bad but getting the floorboards to work was a bit of fun. Lost a bit of leg room as well. Had to go this route, otherwise the rear cylinders would have been hidden in the recess. That red motor is a long one. After welded, pulled a fiberglass copy off it and wsed it to hid a layer of insulation on the inside. Sprayed the fiberglass with a layer of bed-liner so if someone puts their feet on it, it will not be a big deal. Canuck
I found it wasn't so much the head(s) that were close to the firewall in my '30 AV8 but the fuel pump and breather assembly. With the breather touching the middle of the firewall there was a good inch of clearance to the closest head. I cheated and still moved the front crossmember and radiator forward 1-1/2" - not really noticable - but running sans hood.
I've installed my 52' flathead with the firewall and radiator in the stock position. Used bolt in Speedway front motor mounts and pushed them all the way forward. Like Christom says, the breather and fuel pump are what's closest, heads will clear. I eliminated the mechanical fule pump and used electric. Offset the breather slightly forward and its hard to even notice. Running 3 carbs, so I used a SCB alternator mounted where the generator was and got a fan adapter pully from speedway. Earlier ford fan bolts right to pully. Front and center cross members are in factory position. I fabricated a new 3 piece cross member to support the trans., or you can buy a cheap version from speedway that will do the job. Used stock Germer column offset to outside to clear the left head at the back. Its' all close but it fits and you can run the stock hood. Take you're time and don't start cutting things unless really needed.
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