Gasser style Straight Axle tech questions

I prefer mine to be pretty straight up when sitting with weight on the springs. Hard to say where to set the mounting point to achieve that, as it depends on how firm the springs are. I usually clamp or tack the frame mounts in place and then let the weight rest on them. If they're straight up you can weld them solid, or move them an appropriate amount.
Since you already know where the mount is, and how it sits with weight on it. It will be easy to mark a line straight up from the spring eye, and determine how far forward the mount needs to go. Part of your problem with frame and spring clearance is the little short shackles. If your stance can stand a little more height, then you could go slightly longer shackles and put the spring eye farther away from the frame, but this will also make your king pins move more vertical, so if a half degree or so less inclination is an issue, then better to just move the mount.

 

I plan on going with a longer shackle if I can locate them. After looking at it again this morn. I'm thinking I might just keep it in the same location just move it to the bottom of the frame this will help to keep it from hitting the frame and should keep everything as it already is. It runs out straight, does wonder abit under hard exceleration. I need to check my toe in also!


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irs30 car looks cool looks like you are on the right track , I will mention a couple of things . we have our caster angle set at 9 degrees on the straight axle , toe set at 1/8 and it drives perfect . as for the rear ride (we used a mopar 8 3/4 axle with ladder bars) we found adding the rear "sliders" at rear shackle point made this thing ride like a dream .( the sliders are an old circle track trick that many hot rodders use to let the leafs work forward and rearward) and this makes for an almost non-hot style ride , hell - we even put power steering on it , and the dropped jeep pitman arm allows for much better steering geometry and no bump steer at all , you can drive this thing down the road with 2 fingers and no wander no pitch no anything . we have been driving the shit out of this thing and there is no cupping or feathering at all of the front tires . good luck with yours - it does take some time , and some trial and error , but its all worth it .

 

Is the jeep dropped arm the same spline as the stock mopar? Also could you pop a few pics of your sliders, and where you bought them? I built a street stock years back with a buddy and what a difference in handling it made when we put them on it!

 

thanks the sliders were purchased from speedway and the dropped pitman is standard shaft size - most all Saginaw gears are 1" shaft I believe - the dropped pitman also had 4 "main" splines which made it nice for needed adjustment . hope it helps .

 

i race a 55 chevy and a 41 willys and both handle great on the dragstrip with the speedway roundtube straight axle. 7-8 degrees up to 10 degrees helps the car to track at speed. I toe the tires in 1/4 to 3/8"that way there's enough fight between the tires after the front end comes back down to keep the death wobble away. street car 7-8, drag car 9-10 degrees. on the strip the straight axle front end sets down much easier than a a arm car.

 

I put a speedway kit under my henry j. has good road manners and stays straight at 130mph on the track. the big block may tame the springs a little.5 degrees caster.

 

If all things go well, I plan on getting to the garage on Sunday, to get it buttoned up. I will take pics with the progress. The car really handles well, the main reason for doing this is just to correct the clearance issue on the one side.. I'm on the hunt for either some skinny aluminum slots or cragar SS Chevy bolt pattern if anybody knows of any...