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Hinge ID?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blowby, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    I need to replace these hinges but don't know their origin. Anyone?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Cyclone
    Joined: Mar 31, 2006
    Posts: 222

    Cyclone
    Member
    from Sonoma, CA

    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  3. Look like 37-39 Chevy trunk hinges. HRP
     
  4. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Yep, them's the ones, same numbers on the back side. $120, yipes!

    Thanks
     

  5. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,088

    Dreddybear
    Member

    I agree with this..:Edit...looks like you got it!
     
  6. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Those type hinges can be easily put on the wrong side so pay attention during installation.
    Many, but not all I suppose, have the mounting surface at a slight angle to the pin.
    If they get put on the wrong side the pin is out of line and gets overstressed as the trunk opens...and the pin or the hinge body snaps.
    Cost a buddy of mine a perfect set of hinges and a long wait to find another set when he put his trunk lid back on his 40 Chevy after painting.

    Just a word of warning that might save you or others from the same fate! ;)
     
  7. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    They are the hood hinges to my hot rod Bantam. Soon to be replaced with gate hinges...:)

    Don't suppose I can weld it eh?
     
  8. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    If you have some of that miracle rod that you see being used with propane, try it. I'd step up to Ox/AC with a small tip.

    Clean the areas good to shiny metal, then find a way to support both pieces steady. That rod is like solder, not welding, so as you are flowing one side, then try to flip it over, the other side will melt away as you do the other side.

    To test how hot the part needs to be while using that stuff; you keep heating while trying to rub the rod on the part, but don't melt the rod with the flame. when you just start to see a super shiny stripe on where you just rubbed, be careful, as you are now hot enough to use it. Too much heat at this point makes the part vanish :)
     
  9. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Good idea. Like others that have watched the guy at the swap meet weld everything from beer cans to manifolds, I bought some. And like most, I have never been able to weld a thing with it. But this would be a good practice piece. Thanks for the tips, probably be a good tech thread if there isn't one already. Maybe MAP gas..
     
  10. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Don't practice on that, not yet..


    I failed with that stuff many years ago. The key to my problem was not enough heat. I saw some chick on late night infomercials and her propane torch sounded like a jet engine;)

    Go find a strip of 1/16"-1/8" aluminum plate or strapping etc. Don't bother trying to weld two pieces together at first. Clean it GOOD, as alum microscopically starts to corrode is seconds! I learned that in HS, so clean it good.

    Now put that strip where the vice or whatever, won't suck the heat out of the piece. Now, just keep the flame at one spot, and every few seconds, wipe across that spot with the rod. At some stroke, it will leave a shiny line. You are now ready to keep adding more rod to that spot. But don't keep the same heating pattern as you are already at the fusion point. You need to back off a bit with the torch NOW. Then bring it back in when the rod fails to keep melting.

    It's a balance act at first. If you don't pull the flame away, the piece will at some point, just melt off in a split second...gone..on the floor :confused:
     

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