Projects Water in engine! Now what!?

Hello everyone.
I recently purchased a 53 dodge with a flat-head 6 in it. I was told the engine hasn't run in about 13 years. I am unable to get the engine to turn over by hand. I have poured ATF into the cylinders from the sparkplugs after blocking off the intake and exhaust ports. I drained the oil and nothing more than sludge and water drained out. What's my next move? Should I fill the crankcase with ATF to eat up any corrosion or am I screwed?
Any help and good news would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

 

You'll need to dismantle the engine and see if the bores are borable and the block is sound. A complete rebuild is in your future.

 

Did you ever think of removing the engine,dismantle it and rebuild it as I'm sure it is needed...Dont Rube Goldberg it

 

yes. blued and tatooed.

 

Pasadenahotrod types faster than I do

 

As previously stated in the other thread you started ten days earlier regarding a frozen engine. It's time to disassemble and rebuild it.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838497

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If you're not on a hurry you can fill it with ATF and acetone, let it sit for a while and see if you can get it to turn. The engine NEEDS to be rebuilt, but disassembly is much easier when it turns over.

 

Your going to have to rebuild the engine or replace it. HRP

 

Great, another winter project...

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next move...pull the head and have a look

 

You can use ATF and Acetone (50/50) shake the hell out of it then pour it in the block hopefully the Acetone will pull the ATF down into the cylinders and make easier to turn the engine over. If that dont work remove the head and boil some distilled vinegar and fill each cylinder with the hot vinegar let it sit for a good long while then try to turn it over. If neither of those ideas work you might have to remove the crank and beat the pistons out with a large piece of wood.

 

I was hoping to just get it running and drive it till the snow fell and work on it over winter but I guess I have no choice but to rebuild it sooner...

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hey hey , post ad in wanted , there are many running engines out there, 300.00 bucks would buy one, keep your eyes peeled , best wishes on your build

 

blue71c,

Cast iron is like a sponge. When exposed to water the corrosion goes deep into the cast iron. You can bore and hone the cylinders, but if you don't get all of the corroded cast iron then you have wasted money on JUNK. I think you would be ahead if you found another engine that had not been exposed to the elements.

McGurk

 

hotrod0317
Haven't heard of boiled distilled vinegar before.
What does it do?

 

blue71c,

If you are hell bent to disassemble the engine then screw all of the homemade remedies and get some LimeWorks. If it dosen't dissolve the rust then given enough time it will dissolve the pistons. My grandfather was a pack rat and he gathered nails. Most were rusty so he would put them in a coffee can full of Coca Cola. That would dissolve the rust and leave the nails shining. Both contain carbolic acid.

McGurk

 

I'd pull the head and the oil pan and inspect before pouring anything else in there.

At least a visual inspection will tell you more of what you're dealing with.

 

^^^^ yep.

Actually if the car were a hot rod that flatty would have been long gone. maybe a hot rod is in your future, heaven forbid.

 

Pull the head and see how the bores look, pull the pan and look at the bottom end.

Make sure the clutch is releasing and none of the accessories are seized.

Worst case scenario is the motor needs replacing. Luckily, flathead mopars are inexpensive to buy.

 

Well an old Mopar friend of mine knows another Mopar friend of his that has a few of the hemis they used in those cars back then. That might be an option I may use...

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At several times the price of rebuilding what you have.............................

 

Hemi's are expensive??? say it isn't so... and then there are the associated costs of everything else to get one into the hole left by the 230.
Unless the OP has a lot of disposable income to play with, another 23", or even a 25", is the only practical way to proceed if a proper rebuild is not done. I think this was already mentioned a time or two...

.

 

I had learned it from some old timers. It has the same effect when you use it on a dirty/stained cofee pot. What it does is to clean the metal and it will eat at just the rust similar to apple cider vinegar just not as harsh. Also if there is any built up calcium deposits it will remove them real quick I have a 40 year old original radiator that has been on my car since the factory and it is still working great.

Whenever I do a rad flush I always run 1 gallon of distilled vinegar with 1 gallon of distilled water for about an hour in the engine. After that I drain it and change and even pull the block drains and I flush blocks out with a hose Ill even flush the heater core too. I took an engine into a machine shop and all I did was pressure wash the crap on the outside off and take it in I was asked how long it had been since the block had been hot tanked because the water passages were so nice.

 

I tried vinegar but it didn't do enough to get it to move. I'm tearing it down and soaking it in Mean Green.

 

Really 5 years later.

 

Sometimes you can't make this stuff up. Or can you. Maybe he just wanted to update us.

 

I know. I just couldn't help myself. All bs aside, did u soak it all these years and it's still seized?

 

No, I soaked it with vinegar for almost a year then emptied that and put in diesel and mmo with no luck. Now I'm tearing it down. #1 rod was seized to the crank, I still haven't tried to push the pistons out.
And yes, I was giving you all an update. I know everyone had been asking about me. . .

 

Well I give the OP credit. Think of how many people that have been given advice over the years on a problem to never be heard from again, good on you.

Cliff Ramsdell