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Wiring worksheet help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Katsumoto, Oct 17, 2013.

  1. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    Ok guys. I will be the first to admit, that when it comes to electrical, I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm officially at that point now. I've pretty much finished everything but electrical on my mopar 440 RB engine which I'm dropping into a 1956 Dodge C3 pickup. I'm working on getting the starting circuit figured out and then once I've started the engine, I'll slowly work on everything else. (Headlights, signals, radio, gauges etc.) I picked up an EZ wiring harness as I was told it was a good thing to start with for those that aren't electrically inclined. Am I correct to assume that the starting circuit/wiring exists on it's own and that the main wiring harness is for everything else? Or does part or all of the starting wiring exist in the EZ harness? Anyway, I've attached a PDF of what I'm looking at. If one of you out there that, unlike me, knows what they're talking about when it comes to electrical could draw on my PDF here where I'm supposed to run wires I would be eternally grateful. :)

    Here are some additional details that may be important to know.

    • 12 volt system
    • Pertronix flamethrower III distributor
    • Dual field mopar alternator
    • EZ 21 Harness (18 FUSES 21 CIRCUIT)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    And if it isn't fairly obvious that this is my first go around with a ground up resto, this post should make it obvious....
     
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Why is it so important to get the engine started first? Yes the Ignition and starting and Alternator are normally on their own harness/harnesses. Smart move getting a kit.
    If this is your first time Lay out and run all your circuits in the truck at its proper location before firing up the engine. Don't apply any juice to the harness until everything is attached. This is important because you will find you have more wires than you need and I suggest you remove the circuits not being used. Depending on your extras, its safe to say you will remove 8 circuits or more. Otherwise you will have a big ball of wire under your dash. Go slow. take your time and ask more questions as you go. Expect to take a full week the first time you wire. good luck.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  4. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    Thanks Petejoe. The way this project has gone, the engine is actually one of the last things left to work on. But yes I was planning on just running the starting circuit first to make sure the engine runs well enough. (Just incase I need to exhaust a little more budget into the engine for a few more last minute fixes.) Then once that is running smooth, I can focus on smaller less important things like lights, signals, gauges, etc.
     

  5. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    I have started an engine I was buying on the concrete floor before.
    Concentrate on one project at a time. You can get overwhelmed very easy when first time wiring.
     
  6. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

    Jury rig a low amp fuse between the hot battery cable to the car load and the hot battery post before you throw it all on before the first try.
    Better to blow a fuse then burn up your wiring if something ain't right.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  7. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    Thanks. Any ideas on my wiring worksheet?? :)
     
  8. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    Ah good to know chaos10meter. Thanks!
     
  9. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    You're better off starting the engine without your harness. Alittle direction...
    Part 1 of how to...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytEH-pDJM8s

    Written directions.
    To wire it up....

    1) Battery cable from + on battery to big post on starter.
    2) Battery cable from - on battery to engine block, and test stand
    3) 10 ga, Wire From back of alt. to battery
    4) plug on alt. 2 wires, 1 goes back to the back of alt, other goes to battery but add a 47-50 ohm resistor in line the wire before battery.
    5) wire from big post on starter to push button
    wire from little post towards oil pan on starter to other side of push button.
    6) wire from coil "+" post to toggel switch
    7) wire from other side of toggel switch to battery
    8) green wire on tach to "-" coil post
    9) black wire on tach to battery ground to test stand frame
    10) tach's other wires to the "non powered" side of toggel switch
    11) volt gauge red wire to "non powered" side to toggel switch
    10) volt gauge black wire to frame of test stand, battery - or engine block

    Wired up like that.. You flip your toggel switch which will power up your dist, gauges, etc, push the start button to turn starter over and fire engine. To shut the engine off you just flip your toggle switch


    AS I say... one project at a time.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  10. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 573

    fordflambe
    Member

    I've been wiring cars for 35 years and it can seem daunting unless you take one circuit at a time (as a beginner)..........I highly recommend that you should get a book called "How to wire your Street Rod". On Ebay it will cost you less than $15 and shows all basic circuits by brand (Mopar, Ford, etc).......It separates start circuit from light circuit from accessory circuits and will be a great reference for you after the truck is on the road and you want to add or change something. The older I get, the more I find myself referencing this handy little book............and no, I am not the author nor do I sell them.......



     
  11. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    This engine starting project will be a good learning curve for you. It will enable you to understand the basics of what little it actually takes to start an engine.
     
  12. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    I'm also using a (0.32-ohms) 45,000-volt coil. (Pertronix Flamethrower III). So would I therefore NOT be needing to use a ballast resistor??
     
  13. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Some coils are internally resisted. Some are not.
    Heres info on your coil.

    These coils are internally resisted so they are compatible with many ignition systems.
    http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx
     
  14. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

    Thanks for the instructions Petejoe. However the engine is already in the truck. I'm essentially taking over where somebody left off. (So I guess I can't technially claim that this is my first "ground up resto" like I said before.) I rebuilt the 440 from the intake up plus accessories as that's where the last guy left off. There wasn't really a need to take it out.
     
  15. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

  16. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    To understand the need for resistance...
    The resistor limits the CURRENT going through the coil.
    Also, if you have a points ignition, it lengthens the life of the points greatly.

    It's true that the coil puts out less energy with the resistor, but it's not a lot less.
     
  17. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    In the truck, on a stand or laying on the ground. Doesn't matter... If you want to check out the engine then I suggest you start it without the harness.
     
  18. This is the best piece of advice on the whole thread!!!!!!!!!!!!! That little book will help you understand what to do and WHY, the WHY is for when it doesn't work and you have to trouble shoot your work. In the dark, in the boonies, when your better half has to go potty and there is a boogie man in the woods!
     
  19. Katsumoto
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Katsumoto
    Member
    from Utah

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