Grating the entire length is the plan already. For a little more money than the Harbor Freight lift you can get an actual lift. I had $100, so I got this. I definitly think it will be useful.
What a coincidence. This just appeared on Kansas City Craigslist. Not mine or anyone I know. .bjb http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4101101919.html If this violates any rules, feel free to delete it.
The down side to these ramp lifts is you can't stand under the car. Might just be more comfortable working on your back than your knees.
Yeah....if you actually try to work on the car using them you find they are at the perfect height to make it almost impossible for a human - an adult human - to work. Too low to stand, too high to lie down. For the rare job they are better than nothing but I wouldn't let them occupy space in my life.
I have had hydraulic hoses burst and the cylinders collapse instantly. Does this thing have some kind of braces to hold it up when it loses hydraulic pressure?
manyolcars>>>I have had hydraulic hoses burst and the cylinders collapse instantly. Does this thing have some kind of braces to hold it up when it loses hydraulic pressure?>>> I believe this particular model is guaranteed to never lose hydraulic pressure. 8^) Jack E/NJ <!-- / message -->
I've have had my eye on one here in town for a while. You've motivated me to go and ask about it now!
I was looking at that, wondering about stuff like - - it would make fitting grating about impossible - with no grating would the tires tend to drop down deeper between the bars, and have a taller hill to climb and make it harder to drive up especially in the rain, etc. - if the ends of the V are open, they are self draining which would help long term out door durability
What is the angle iron dimension? 2-1/2 inch, 3 inch, by 1/4 ? What is the span between the knee braces? http://www.beforethearchitect.com/images-draftings/KNEE BRACE1.jpg
It would be MUCH safer if those angle iron cross braces (the ones the tires sit on) were on top of the side rails rather than under them. The way it's made you're relying on the strength of a couple of small welds to hold the weight of the car. That way they could also be flipped so the "point" of the angle iron is facing up and not able to collect crap .
Why in hell would anyone buy that thing from Horrible Fright when for $300 bucks more delivered to your door, you could have this ? Unless of course you simply don't have the ceiling height in your shop. $1630 delivered. Took the better part of a day to set it up but I did it by myself and that included wiring. Please excuse the OT vehicle on the lift.
I think you'll find that rig is either too high or too low for working under a car. Could be just the right height for doing body work on lower panels. Anchor one side down really well and use the existing rods to tie it to the other side and you should be ok. Those rigs are or at least were very common and have been around since the 1920's.
Well guys here is mine, have used it for 30 years and I've never had a problem with stability. Yes I did have one roll back down the ramps and that scared the shit out of me. I always safety chain the car to the ramps while I am working under it now. I have it bolted to the floor so it is not adjustable, but may change that as my new off topic car is too wide to fit. The main structurals are 2 1/2 X 4" X 1/4 rectangular tubing the tire channels are 3/16 X 10" The pit under it is 32" deep and the ramps are 32" high, perfect height for me at 5'10"! Being that the pit is only crotch height fumes are not a problem and you can't get trapped under the car. (if gasoline gets spilled in the pit I do use a box fan to air it out) Notice that it make a great bench with the addition of some 2X4s and OSB!
Those things should be behind every new car dealer in the country. During the late 80's and 90's every one had at least one. They were usually rated for 8000 lbs. So you gould put a truck on them. I would think they could easily hold most hot rods. I wold inspect it closely for what the elements have done to it in the last 20 years. I agree that it might be the wrong height to work on undercar. Would be nice for some suspension assembly and body work.
My main focus is oil, tranny fluid changes, starter replacement, and cleaning and painting underneath. Will make pressure washing under it a breeze. Beefing up the front crossbrace to a 3" square so I can attach a come along if needed. I was at AutoBone today, they have Heavy duty car/truck ramps on sale for $99.99... Think I did better. Hope to have it inside with a car on it next week. Need to do a total clean-up inside, so the car is just getting parked for the winter on it
I'm staying with jack stands. Working lying down has it's advantages. Closer to stuff lying on the floor, good rest for the old back, easy to take a quick nap...
The HF gizmo scared me. But the reviews (especially from HAMBers) make me wonder why not? But I would still use some jack stands.
I would not feel too safe under that ramp, and the HF lift leaves zero access under the vehicle so what's the point. I installed this Maxjax 5 years ago and it's perfect. The max height is perfect to allow you to roll around in a typical office chair and work comfortably while sitting down. It also stores away easily. Has drop in anchors and can be uninstalled and rolled out of the way in a matter of 15 minutes. I paid $1500 delivered in Jan '09. It's made by Danmar who also produce lifts for Bendpak.
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