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Nutserts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blowby, Oct 5, 2013.

  1. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Are these the hot poop to put threads in square frame tubing?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    They work great. Just remember to torque them down fully the first time, they can strip out in the hole if you don't.
     
  3. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    yes, put keep in mind they are not designed to take a lot of stress.
     
  4. Love them / hate them.... see above advice...
     

  5. I've used them but I wouldn't depend on them to hold the body on the frame. HRP
     
  6. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Thanks guys. Somewhere between a self tapping screw and a welded tab sounds like.
     
  7. Lukydevl
    Joined: Feb 23, 2010
    Posts: 700

    Lukydevl
    Member
    from Arizona

    I use the steel ones all the time.. Rated for aircraft, what has more stress than that??
     
  8. Great for holding access covers, mirrors, door handles, and other low load stuff like line clamps.
    I wouldn't use it to hold chassis components, muffler hangers or a body.
     
  9. Normbc9
    Joined: Apr 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,121

    Normbc9
    Member

    We use them routinely for the tool mount brackets in our Fire Apparatus fleet. Have done so for 20+ years with great success.
    Normbc9
     
  10. Saw them used by Brookville in one of their frames as body mounting points. Just sayin'
    I'd like to do the same but am a bit skeptical.....
     
  11. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,965

    Clik
    Member

    What's the weakest link? Probably the sheet metal.
     
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    They are awesome, I use them almost everywhere. Use the steel ones you will never have issues with them.

    There are heavy duty versions available that spread out differently on the back side and hold a lot of weight or torque.
     
  13. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

  14. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

  15. I hate the bastards, may be great in Cali, but in Wisconsin a little rust in the threads and they spin in the holes and you are screwed trying to get bolts out. The only place/time I use them is where/when I'll never have to disassemble them again!
    If you need bigger stronger threads in thin stuff, weld on an overlay or drill a bigger hole and weld in a bung and tap it.
     
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Rust will never be an issue in my hot-rod :)
     
  17. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,602

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Funny how stuff pops up I was just getting ready to use some for a fuse panel mount bracket.
     
  18. Yeah, there's nothing more frustrating as one of these things spinning in the hole. I've used them, but only the steel versions and I'll put a couple of tack welds on them, as well as using antiseize...
     
  19. WornOutOldMan
    Joined: Nov 18, 2010
    Posts: 66

    WornOutOldMan
    Member
    from So Cal

    Dissimiliar metals (different fastener vs nutsert material) can also be problematic as they can/will develop corosion. A little dab of anti-seize is your friend. ;)
     
  20. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    Yes, be sure to use the antiseize on every bolt !
     
  21. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    if you can find the steel ones and installed right they are quite strong we used them on trucks all the time as your not allowed to weld to the frame and in some spots you cannot access the back side of part to be bolted . the ones I use are a cone style not aluminum pop rivet style you have to use a impact gun or the special press to pull them like a huck bolt in place . the aluminum ones are garbage . and you should use anti seize on the threads of the bolts when using them so you can get it apart later on .
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Steel bolts and steel nutserts. Sounds good to me. Thats all I use and they work very well.
     
  23. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,112

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    Use the RIGHT size drill and the proper insertion tool.I personally don't liker using larger than 1/4" bolt size.
     
  24. fordor41
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,018

    fordor41
    Member

    I've used them with all the above results. I drill a hole slightly smaller, file to "just" fit the nutsert and crank them down good with the installation tool. Better choice for any load is a caged nut
     
  25. go-twichy
    Joined: Jul 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,648

    go-twichy
    BANNED

    good for light use only, i've bent the instalation tool putting them in to.(american made) i love the idea of them, being able to put threads from one side only, but for me they have not lived up to their reputation yet. to the guy building airplanes with them... i dont know about if thats a good idea. may on some drink holders or a map holder.
     
  26. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,144

    ronzmtrwrx
    Member

    There are many different varieties of "nutserts". I use a lot of the 10-24 and 1/4-20 sizes. Do your research, as some styles are crap. I only use the cad plated steel, ribbed style. I get mine from McMaster Carr. Do NOT use those that break in the middle and pull the threaded portion up into the barrel. I have used those in the past, and had them work loose. I have had excellent results from the style I now use. Anything larger than 1/4", I would recommend welding in a threaded bung.
     
  27. bobkatrods
    Joined: Sep 22, 2008
    Posts: 755

    bobkatrods
    Member
    from aledo tx

    I worked on aircraft for 35 years ,28 with the airlines, they are used quite a bit, Only they are called RIVNUTS and are made different than nutserts.If you have ever flown on a airline, You have parked your Butt over hundreds of them.
     
  28. go-twichy
    Joined: Jul 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,648

    go-twichy
    BANNED

    if he had asked about "rivnuts"i would have had no comment to make, but he was wanting to know about "nutserts". you should show a pictures of the ones you're talking about, I know I would like to know more about them. or do a torque test with them to show what they can do before they fail. anybody set up to do a test on both? i'm on the edge of my chair just thinking about it!
     
  29. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,581

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    To fit panel steel parts to panel steel they are the ducks nuts . But for structural stuff even with the large flange nutsert jobs I would have my doubts. We recently fitted a deck lid to a project and it was probably more than they were intended for and two nutserts spun in the thin panel steel and OH MY what a bitch to remove. But I would sur still use them in low stress applications every time.
     
  30. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said, used them for years, great for cable and brake line installs, small componants. fine for shear type forces not so much for pulling forces. Probably wouldn't use anything bigger than 1/4 / 6mm. Steel inserts, steel bolts, antisieze. Nothing like repetition:D
     

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