Okay guys & gals...I have been bitten by the traditional bug and I bought a restored 1956 F100 that I stumbled on last week. It has all stock suspension (except for lowering) and the original I6 223 with the 3-speed tranny. I think the split intake and dual exhaust along with the somewhat dropped suspension is very cool. I really like the truck and it will likely be an heirloom part of the family. My concern is it wasnt built for the highway with the 3.92 gears and the 3-speed-on-the-tree. It's wound up very tight at 60 mph. Since I tend to want to drive my hobby projects, I will need to introduce some taller gears or an overdrive (non-automatic because I like the 3-on-the-tree) of some sort (possibly both if required). So before I go and screw this all original setup, I thought I would ask the "experienced" group on the HAMB for suggestions. I'm not much on the keyboard cowboys who tend to share their "theories" or "philosophies" but would truly appreciate anyone's advice who has "adjusted" their similar setups and can share some time/money-saving techniques/ideas. Maybe a gear change for the Dana 44? Is there an overdrive swap I don't know about that would look original? I remember the cars had overdriven 3 speeds but dont know anymore about them than they exist. Durability, availability, pros/cons, etc. It also appears the front axle has too much negative camber as the wheels appear to be leaning in at the top. I plan to get it on an alignment machine in the next several days and verify...but unless my eyes are failing me (quite possible), this explains the irrational behavior on the freeway when hitting bumps. I have plenty of experience with bumpsteer from my '34 Ford back in the day, and this dropped axle is more than a handful at 60 mph. I know there were a couple of guys who dropped these axles years ago such as Moredrop and Sid and I don't know if this is one of their products, but I'm curious on who would know how to measure this one for accuracy or if its better to just replace it with another one. My ultimate goal is to keep this truck as original as possible without sacrificing safety. Your past experience is appreciated and the reason I want to ask before making the wrong changes based upon lack of knowledge. That's how I see this forum benefiting all of us. Thanks in advance.
electronic overdrive such as a gearvendors I think it is . I know what you mean about not being made for todays highway speeds with those gears and a 3 speed
Id just do a gear change in the Dana... they are relatively cheap. The front end, well thats a whole nother problem. Put a Panhard Bar and a Steering Stabilizer on it and see what it does.
Troy, I think making rear axle adjustments would be a good start for improving highway cruising speed comfort. I sent you a private message as well.
I also would regear first, but don't go too far as that 223 isn't a V8 and will fall on its face with a too high gear ratio. (there was a reason why it came with 3.92s) As far as the front axle is concerned, park it on a level surface and put a level vertical on the rim, might have to block it out away from the wheel to get past the center hub. (same size block top and bottom) this will give you an idea of how much positive/negative camber you have. also check toe in/out, too much either way will make it squirrelly.
I actually checked on the GearVendors unit yesterday. Not only is it $3,000 (WOW!), but it certainly doesn't look like it was manufactured in 1956 so I'm not going that route unless its the absolute last alternative. I do have plans to install a pan-hard bar and I have a stabilizer hanging on the wall in the garage I never used on my '34...so that should help. I'm still unsure what to do about the axle if indeed the camber is negative as I suspect. I don't know of any local companies who can tweak the axle with any precision.
I would look for a 3 spd + OD out of any late 50's to mid 60's Ford car. It should almost bolt in (maybe change clutch disc). You will just have to add wiring for the OD solenoid, and kickdown if you are interested. Then you can keep the 3.92 gears and cruise comfortably on the highway.
I agree with FrozenMerc. However, be aware that the car transmissions for V8 engines were slightly different than the truck V8 transmissions. Don't know if the same differences apply to the sixes or not. Basically, if memory hasn't failed me, the truck transmissions used the 1-3/8 X 10 input shaft spline (same as the early flatheads) and the shaft was slightly longer due to a deeper bellhousing which I suspect was to accomodate the bellhousing mounts. The truck transmissions also had the short tailshaft housing. The passenger cars used the 1-1/16 X 10 input spline. Since both OD and non-OD transmissions are BW T-86's, it may be possible to swap the input shafts, but there is nothing you can do about the difference in tailhousing length other than cut the driveshaft. If the difference in length of the input shaft can be accomodated without changing shafts, then a simple clutch disc swap will take care of the spline difference. Don't forget that you will need the OD lock out cable, relay, and kickdown switch. However, even with the problems presented, I think the swap is worth doing. Best would be to find a truck with OD and acquire all the parts. I think your next option would be to swap in a T-5. You may have guessed that I am not in favor of swapping the rear ends. You need the extra grunt with the six, especially if you use it as a truck occasionally and the need to swap the complete rear axle is costly and a good bit of work, if you can find one with the right features. BTW, the overdrive will give you the equivalence of a 2.75 rear ratio. Good luck.
58-62 Car transmissions have 23 spline input shaft, outside of those years used 10 spline. For what it's worth, the flywheel on a 223 will interchange with a Y Block.
There was an old thread on Ford O.D.'s that got dug up the other day. I tried to drag the thread link over here ,but no luck. Search for a member called Patchen1, find "All threads started by" in his profile, It'll be in there; input splines, which trans is heavier (for truck use, etc.).
That is one good looking little Effie. On the alignment. There has to be a number of shops within an hour of where you sit that can handle setting that front end right. Usually if you hunt down a "spring" shop you find the shop that handles bigger trucks and motorhomes that is set up to adjust I beam axles and has the guys who know what they are doing. On the trans / rear axle thing, I think I'd swap in an overdrive three speed Ford Trans if I was keeping that engine. It may not have the torque needed for gears that equal the reduction the overdrive would give at road speeds. Figuring that an overdrive with a 20% reduction would drop a 3.94 to a theoretic 3.144 for the highway.
A 84-87 F150 trans (4 speed - top is overdrive, commonly called a 3+1 or more correctly an RTS trans) will do the trick with your rear end. The model behind a 302 V8 is the one you want. Will require some work, but so will anything. Will give good off the line and good cruising performance.
The best solution to your problem would be factory type overdrive trans. It would still give the little six the advantage of the 3.91 gear and give you the overdrive for the highway. Also it gives you the effect of a couple extra gears to get you up to speed more easily. A big plus is the old OD is a real hoot to drive and preserves your column shifter.
rockabillybassman hit the nail on the head, except it is a floorshift style. A gearvender is super but about $2600.00. Maybe an overdrive 3 spd. from a 50's or 60's Ford, then you could retain your column shift. With 31" tires, 3.73 rearend, any O.D. setup will give you 2050-2150 r.p.m.s at 70-75 m.p.h. Good luck.
As for the bumpsteer, a dropped axle changes the angle of the drag link. A very simmple swap is a GM 525 steering box (they are intermediate duty) mounted as a cross-steer to the righthand spindle arm. No B.S. at all.
Based upon the input thus far, I think an original 3 speed with the solenoid overdrive is my best option to give me more top end and keep it traditional or "traditional styled" (dont want to get in anymore trouble around here!...geez its as if you need to run Ethyl to be considered traditional on here). Original drivetrain, original suspension, original body, original paint color, original wheels...but still not traditional. Go figure. Any ideas on where I can locate a good tranny? Am I looking for a unicorn or are these still out there? How much are these going for in case I find one and don't want to get fleeced? How much is too much? Thanks for all of you guys taking the time to help me out.
A 3 spd +OD should be easy to find. I have 2 of them from early 60's Galaxies under my bench. The truck version may be a bit harder to find, but keep your eyes on the auction sites, the HAMB classifieds, and Craigslist or call a few salvage yards. Do some reasearch on the prices, but you should be able to find one in good working order for $200 to $500.
I really like your truck and everything about it. Nice score! I would leave the gears the same and just find an early overdrive trans. Over drives really cut down Highway rpms and when your cruising in town you could leave it on straight drive.maybe look for mid to late 60s trans as they would have syncro trans-jared Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ford offered O/Ds from '49 to the late '60s, at least. With that inline, You don't want to gear higher than what you have. The '56 was the first 12volt system for Ford, so look for a 3-spd/OD from '56 on up. It will have the 12 volt solenoid necessary. If it comes from behind a Y-block, it should bolt up to your 6 cyl. You have a good idea what will work. Happy motoring.
While the people we have here on the HAMB are some of the most informed and creative people Ive ever met, you may also want to hit one of the f100 sites. I would be willing to bet that more than one person on one of those sites has "been there done that" and can provide you with all of the info (and maybe parts) that you may need. Probably could even help you with the fix for your front end. Personally I wouldn't change out the gears unless most of your driving is going to be on the highway. Id look at a tranny swap, maybe a 5 speed? Great looking ride
dadz34, here's a link to a resource for these old transmissions. Mac VanPelt is a regular on the FordBarn and he's very knowledgable. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/
A sincere thanks to everyone for the input. I was able to get the bumpsteer removed by finally locating a knowledgable front end shop who specializes in solid axle front suspensions. Evidently, who ever did the drop missed the mark on their accuracy. Buck's Wheel & Alignment in Fort Worth was able to get everything straightened out within a couple of hours. It drives great now...probably as good as it ever has. While it can't compare with a new truck's suspension...a new truck can't compare to how this '56 looks to me. I'm thrilled with the steering now. As for the O/D transmission, I've acquired (2) side loader and (1) earlier top loader. My plan is to make one of side loaders work because I've read they are more heavy duty. I plan to tear into this task within the next month or two so the truck is ready for some highway cruising this summer. What I'm not sure about now is if there is a difference in the bell housings due to input shaft lengths between the non & overdrive trannys. If anyone has expertise in this area it would be a great help as I would like to collect all the necessary parts before I tear the truck apart. I would like to get this completed over a weekend or possibly two at the most...if possible so that downtime is kept to a minimum. I won't know what parts (clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, etc) interchange until I remove & compare. Thanks again for all of the help.
Where did you locate that T85/R11 tranny? That's the heavy duty trans and typically placed behind 312s, 390s, etc. You'll never destroy that tranny. I need one of those for my Ranchero which has a 312. The T86/R10 is the lighter duty trans and was typically found behind the I6s and smaller V8s.
You will need the three speed bell housing to bolt it up. The truck 4 speed has a bigger center hole and bolt pattern. Y block bell housings won't work either....must be 6 cyl/3 speed. Pilot bushing may be different too, but your clutch linkage should work.
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