Hey guys, I'm looking for a little help & advice when it comes to setting up my trans or maybe be pointed into the right direction of somebody I can pick up all the parts I need to make this happen. I've yet to install an m22 before and I'm trying to find the best way to get it going in my coupe. It's sitting on deuce rails that have been pinched so I don't think the out of the box SoCal mechanical linkage kit will work (nor do they). I'd prefer to go mechanical but if I can't I'm ok with going hydraulic but I don't want to use a hydraulic throwout bearing. This car will be driven, it will be dragged. I need to be something that can stand up to abuse. I'm going to be running an SFI scatter shield as I like my legs just fine. What are you guys thoughts on the Lakewood bellhousing with the mount built in? I've heard that lakewood housing aren't really the way to go as there tolerances are pretty lax and I should try to go with a Quicktime, but I can't seem to find a quicktime housing with the slave mount already built in like the lakewood. (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15020) I could fab something up but I would hate to have to pay for another cert after welding on the scatter shield. (although they do sell these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-6018e) I don't have any floors or a firewall yet so I have room to do whatever although with the exhaust coming threw the frame I may be better off going hydraulic to make things easier down the road. I don't think I'm doing anything that unique here but I can't seem to find much info on it so any help I can get would be appreciated. If pictures will help let me know. Thanks, B
I have a 32 with the socal manual clutch linkage if you need some pictures let me know. Clearance is tight to fit exhaust and brake lines.
Hi 31aford that would be great. What I'm worried about when it comes to the socal kit is that my exhaust runs into the frame right where my pedals sit. So my pedals are going to be offset from the frame about 4" which will push all the linkage over 4" horizontally. I can cut and move the pedals back over to the right spot for foot positioning but I can't really move where linkage connects to.
Here are a couple of pictures of the clutch linkage that I built, similar to SoCals, but the dimensions are different.
That is clean. How was the adjustment process? That's what worries me about building my own manual linkage from scratch. I don't have a lot of experience with it and I understand it can be finicky. Also are you using solid mounts for the motor and trans? If not did you run into any issues with the linkage being welded to the frame and bolted to the trans?
The Heim ends on the rods are right and left hand threads, so are fully adjustable. The motormounts are the biscuit type, and the trans mount is a stock GM type and are not solid. The Z bar pivots on stock GM balls and are bolted to the plate of the bellhousing and the plate bolted to the frame. It is all removable. It's the first time I had built a clutch linkage like this and it took a lot of measuring and figuring. As I recall I built most of it twice, before I got it all right. The exhaust runs under the clutch linkage, as in this picture.
Thanks for the pics and help! It looks like I might be able to get away with a similar setup if I switch to a different pedal setup. I just need to start mocking things up and pick up a few more parts.
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