Y-Blokkah - be good if you could include pics. and/or drawings. many here likely can not identify a 700R4 much less how they work. common knowledge to you but, not to others
Here's a website with some answers. Great post Y-Blokkah. http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/techinfo.html
now this is a goog idea, i'll open it up if i know what i'm doing. but from a description only? i'll pass. i need to know what i'm doing, and why i'm doing it. photos would be great, plus it would win you big points with everybody!(not cashable anywhere)
I've done this to many cars myself. Learned it from a transmission guy I know. It works great and all you have to buy is a $6 switch from the auto parts store. Cheaper than anybodys wiring harness. Clipped a four prong plug at the wrecking yard, but they are available from NAPA. This is a good tip from Y Blokkah.
The painless kit is vacuum operated and brake pedal operated, it is also one of the more expensive kits out there. I'm in the middle of my trans instal, so i cn't say how well it works.
Yep, this works. I first did this in about 1990. The transmission is still working in it's third vehicle. Now, Y-Blokkah tell them the trick about the tv cable when converting from throttle body to carbs etc.
Thanks Y-Blokkah! This is great tech advice! Is it safe to assume you can do the same mods to a 200R?
GearheadsQCE: You got me on that one regarding the TV cable. I know of no trick with that except buying a kit or changing the cable out. TV cables are so cheap and so crucial that I just tell everyone to get a new one. Wowcars: I'm NOT a fan of the 200R4 at all. I know I'm against the grain here, but all the issues with the 700 have long since been ironed out, and they're super strong if built right. We could never get the 200R4 to work right. A few years ago, we had a supposed custom bigbuck built unit here, and no matter what we did, we couldn't get TV pressure right. that thing wasted the high clutches more than once, burned the band, just was a genuine A#1 P.O.S. We built a 700, swapped them out, and poof, instant grins. The 200R4 is so totally sensitive to TV pressure. It can't be too low, OR too high. Either way, you smoke the unit. It's a funky unit, and in my opinion, best recycled into more beer cans. At least with the 700, if TV pressure is too high, it'll shift bad, but it won't hurt the unit. You just can't be too low. I've seen too many 200R4's wasted from end to end for no apparent reason. Kudos to those who can make them work, and I'm sure they are out there in droves, but we all have our little things we dislike, and that unit, IMHO, is best used for target practice.
Hey guys. I don't have any pictures right now, but I have an ATSG diagram. I can try to scan it when I get home, or I can just tell you.... whick I will do right now... I assume you are working with a good working unit that has been properly rebuilt be a reputable trans shop. For proper orientation for my description: Place the unit upside down on the bench with the bellhousing to your left, and the tailshaft pointing right . You can do this in the car as well, but I assume everyone doing this now is still building... 1. take the pan off the unit. 2. remove the filter 3. You'll notice at the front of the transmission where the filter attaches to the unit, on the side closest to you is a solenoid with a bracket. It's held on with two bolts. 10mm, I think. it has 2 wires. THIS is the lockup solenoid. 4. Straight back from there at the rear of the valve body, still on the side closest to you is a pressure switch screwed into the rear of the valve body. this is the 4th clutch pressure switch. It may have one or two terminals. THIS IS THE SWITCH YOU USE. It needs to have 2 terminals. If it doesnt, you need to replace this switch with a 2 pronger. It just screws in, just like a stoplight switch in the front of a master cylinder on a 50's Ford. 5. Your trans may or may not have other switches in the valve body close to the 4th clutch pressure switch. Remove the rest of this junk, and plug the holes with your pipe fittings. this stuff is NOT NEEDED for proper trans operation in our application. (It was used for computer control of timing, etc depending on vehicle application.) 6. The connector plug into the trans should be at your 12 o'clock position. 7. Run a hot wire from the plug straight to the RED wire on the lockup solenoid. 7. Run a ground wire from the second wire on the lockuop solenoid straight back to one of the terminals on the 4th clutch pressure switch. Clip it in place. 8. Run a ground wire from the other terminal on the 4th clutch switch to the connector plug. Remember which plug pin is hot, and which is your ground. 9. Install the filter and the pan. 10. Now, in your hotrod, onn the external wiring harness going to your trans connector, run the external wire that will match to your ground pin to the FRAME. get a good ground. Don't mess with this, you don't wan't to be pissing around wasting time later when you could be cruising. 11. Take the hot wire lead from the harness, and splice it into a power source. I like to use a source that's on with the key for obvious safety reasons. 12. Install your trans, fill it, plug in your connector, set the TV, start the engine, place in neutral while topping up, run through the gears, check to make sure your feet aren't wet, recheck fluid level, back it out, and test drive. 14. You should have a 700 that shifts normally, and when 4th gear engages, locks up right after that. When it downshifts, it will automatically kick out of lockup as well. You'll see the RPM drop on your tach, and hear it as well. On your roadtest to check for proper operation, don't drive like an animal, just normally, checking for proper shifts under light to medium throttle. Adjust your TV as necessary. If you now have 4 speeds reverse, and one forward, you f*cked up somewhere... just kidding 15. No muss, no fuss, no kits, no bucks, no B.S. And, with the money you saved, buy yourself an Alliance membership and help these guys out! And.. the disclaimer: A. If you feel the slightest bit queasy, have no j*cking clue what I'm talking about and/or this sounds like Swahili to you, B. or you actually, like my wife, truly do think I'm full of scheiss,... Go to a trans shop and have them do it for you, or when they're doing the build, ask them to incorporate this. It's only 10 minutes on the bench.
Thanks Y for lending your expertise to the HAMB. Not to hijack but....what would be the bulletproof parts list for a really strong 700r? and how much HP could it handle?
Anyone have the part number for the 2 prong pressure switch? I have my 700r4 wired this way as well but now cannot find my part number for it to do the next one.
the sky's the limit with these. For sure, make sure you have the wide input sprag, get a heavy sunshell, always, always, always use a retainer on the front seal, and use new pump rings. As far as hard parts go a 5 pinion planet out of a late model is a nice update, and you can get high energy and Kevlar bands, performance clutch packs, etc, etc, etc. like they always said.. the top speed of your car is directly proportional to the size of your wallet
Could you email me your phone number, I would like to tak to you about my transmission. my email is [email protected] Thanks Bill PS Thanks To all the replys about my lockup kit question.
I've got a 700 in my 48. I mostly use the lock up on the i-state and never lock it under 50mph. I never have a heat problem.
Y-Blokkah this is a great tip. I also have never understood why anyone would buy the so called kits for lockup. Could you also run a second ground from the lock up solenoid through a 3rd gear pressure switch? I thought this might work if someone wanted to keep lockup for 3rd but I dind't know if there was a pressure port location for 3rd gear. I added some upgraded parts for pretty cheap on the 700R4 I built. I added a Beast sunshell, corvette servo and governor, and a stiffer accumulator spring. What exactly is the purpose of a stiffer accumulator spring? I upgraded to heavier just because my spring was broken. I seem to have problems with my anti clunk spring on the low/reverse support in my trans too. I don't know if my case is messed up but it seems to pop out alot. Do you ever have problems with that or have folks swap to a case saver? Also on the rear planetaries do you prefer them with or without the oil splash shield? That is what ultimately caused the failure in my trans. Heat being the major contributor (old radiator wouldn't keep the truck cool and the trans cooler was incorporated).
Hi - I have this three wire setup in my 66 El Camino with a 92 Caprice 5.0 & 700r4. The sensor is worn out internally and makes the speeo cable jump. I do not know where it came from and can't find any names/numbers on it to purchase a replacement. Any Idea where to get one and what it is actually called?
Don't know what the date of this post, but I have about the simplest method, it operates just like a cruze control. all electronic & under $25.00 Uses 2 standard 5pin relays & it works on my 1992 700 R4. TRICKED
Congratulations. You have resurrected a thread that started 4-years-ago. If your intent is to show us how to do something, start a tech thread. If you are selling something, there is a classified section.
[QUOTE="Y-Blokkah, post: 8286891, member: 201282" ...It needs to have 2 terminals. If it doesnt, you need to replace this switch with a 2 pronged... [/QUOTE] Sorry to resurrect this thread but I didn't have this issue when it was active. One question: Does the single pin pressure switch ground to the chassis via the valve body and the case? If so, can we just need run the BLK on the solenoid to the terminal on the switch and make sure the case is well grounded? Thank you, Jeff
Thanks Y-Blokkah, great info. I have a small hot rod shop in SoCal and have been doing this for over ten years. Works great, is inexpensive and simple to do.
Ironically, there's a tech article on this subject in the latest issue of Hot Rod Magazine (Nov 2017).
The Jalopy Journal
