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1951 bel air frame Z

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ooGREYoo, Sep 19, 2013.

  1. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    i have a 1951 bel air that i want to lay frame with,it will be bagged,c10 2 link in rear,stock front end for the most part,so im looking for a little help with a Zing the front "where to cut it" i dont want to make a cut just to find out if i had mad it one inch over it would have worked lol..ive looked around on the net and on here but cant find a good lay out. do people not want anyone to know how to do this or what..i can weld and fab.. and if i cant get any info i will just make the cut from pics ive seen, but ide rather not..any help would be great.thanx alot. my last post was deleted i dont know why .wrong forum? you guys do bump here? anyway thanx again. oh ya ill be step notching the rear.just want to know about the front.
     

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  2. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    the pic above is what im looking for.
     
  3. bandit1950
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 20

    bandit1950
    Member
    from Santa rosa

    Im not sure what you mean by "ZING" . Are you asking about where to place the step notch or c notch before cutting the frame? I just did that same exact frame set up on my fifty fleetline. Clarify what you are asking and I will try to help.
     
  4. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    im ok to install the step notch in the rear...i need help with what is called a Z in the front.you cut the frame and lift the front up. this lets you lay frame check the pic i posted look at the front end and thanx for the help..
     

  5. bandit1950
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 20

    bandit1950
    Member
    from Santa rosa

    I lay frame and only had to put drop spindles in front. The rear is the same as pictured above. 67 c10 two link system. Theres no need to Z the frame. You do that and everything has to get moved around to make up for a new frame height in front. Best case you just step up the lower control arms and add the drop spindles. You will need to cut out your cross member for the tranny and build a new one. Also the body mounts on the side of the frame should get boxed in and then cut off so whatever is hanging below the frame wont hit the ground.. But again, a Z'ed frame is not needed to lay frame. And all done on 560 x 15s. Another way is take off your front cross member and pancake it. Take a two inch section out of it and weld it back together. I will try to post pics to clarify this procces. real easy to do.
     
  6. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    oh very cool thanx for the info i looked into the drop spindles the cost about 500$ just couldnt find the stepped lower arms..but if thats all i need to lay her out sounds good to me thanx again for all the help. do you have any pics of yours? is it bagged? did you install the 2 link yourself and if you did any tips? wont let me post the pics of what i did today just to see it low.
     
  7. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    ok so i just looked at how to step my lower A arms looks easy. so if i do this can i still bag it? looks to me like it will still have room.anything im over looking?
     
  8. Hot Rod Chris
    Joined: Mar 31, 2011
    Posts: 464

    Hot Rod Chris
    Member

    with stepped a arms you can still bag it no problem.
     
  9. scott51
    Joined: Mar 7, 2009
    Posts: 132

    scott51
    Member

    Not sure if I'd say it's no problem, yeah the stepped A arms don't make any difference but bagging a factory 49-54 chev IFS isn't the most straight forward, requiring a lot of cutting and bracing to get enough clearance for the bags.

    Like everyone's said z-ing the front of the frame isn't necessary to get it on the ground but it's worth doing some homework on bagging these front ends before going that route.

    If your goal is to bag it and get it on the ground, most choose to go aftermarket or alternative crossmember like Jag for a number of reasons (the current condition of yours and any other planned upgrades are normally the deciding factor)

    Here's a couple of threads to give you an idea of what's involved, if you search 'bagging stock ifs' and similar you'll get a bunch more:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152076&highlight=bagging+stock+ifs

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=772784&highlight=bagging+stock+ifs
     
  10. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    thanx again for the posts people.. great help.. im the guy that wont put ford-jag-or any other part that isnt chevy on my car even if i know its better.ford 9in/mustang ii/jag front/ never, Ok so ive looked at lots of 51 ifs bag builds and it all looks easy to me and is the way im going to go. i put bags in my 69C10 and i love them. ive heard of a 2006 lowrider mag issue that has the step by step of how the ifs is done on the 48-54 chevys but cant find it on the net. thinking about buying it off ebay if i cant get the info i need ....i can see from the pics where to cut it but if you guys know a site/link that will map it all out for me great. im looking for measurements so i do this right i only have one front end would hate to mess it up. few pics of where im at. again thanx
     

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    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  11. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    hmm ok another quick question ... if i stay with the stock ifs can i still add power stearing? and if so wat are you guys useing?
     
  12. 54fierro
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 493

    54fierro
    Member
    from san diego

    I just recently seen pics of this, i like it
    from chevybombs
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Boosted54
    Joined: Dec 22, 2012
    Posts: 34

    Boosted54
    Member

    I have a few pics on my web site, check out the link, then click on z'ing frame. I can pm you more pics if needed. Hope this helps. http://boosted54.com/the-build.html
     
  14. scott51
    Joined: Mar 7, 2009
    Posts: 132

    scott51
    Member

  15. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    Thanx guys your helping me out huge.. and i do lots of searching but it looks like im searching the wrong things.. like the Z when i can pancake and step A arms...things i didnt know about so didnt search them. the main problem is i want to get this car done and i have the time right now. lol sorry people. and again thanx for all the help.
     
  16. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    Boosted54 your build is dope love the site. great pics. that car is crazy...thanx
     
  17. Boosted54
    Joined: Dec 22, 2012
    Posts: 34

    Boosted54
    Member

    Thanks, gonna be real cool when done, lots of cool things coming up on the car soon. Good luck on the z'ing, it really is a pretty simple thing to do. As mentioned i have more pics and feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.
    If your on instagram check out @boosted54 for daily build updates or my facebook page that has a few custom fiberglass audio builds.
     
  18. ooGREYoo
    Joined: Sep 12, 2013
    Posts: 45

    ooGREYoo
    Member
    from canada

    anyone add power steering box to this frame ,if so what box? thanx
     
  19. scott51
    Joined: Mar 7, 2009
    Posts: 132

    scott51
    Member

  20. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    I'm following this build but if you use a stock power steering box I don't see why you should have any issues. Keep em low and drag them nuts!

    Sent via Western Union Express
     
  21. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    I realize this thread is a couple years old but it's literally the only one I can find that mentions anything about pancaking the crossmember on a car. I found a bunch about doing 60s and 70s pick ups but our crossmember is different. When it's done, how much strength is lost from taking 2" of vertical wall out (in other words, will it want to fold in half)? Does anything else need to be done/moved/adjusted or is it as cut and dry as it seems?
     

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