The originals broke off, most about a 1/4" inside the hinge and over time the ends wore down to nothing. I have tried heating them.....nothing, mushroomed my punch I have tried pressing them.......nothing mushroomed the bolt Soaked in acid over night..... nothing (this however did show the outline between the pin and hinge, maybe I'll try longer and see If it will penetrate deeper? Combos of heat and press, heat and hammer both after using acid and nothing...... My last option is to drill them out, but dang that's gonna take some time and bits.
buy a set of cobalt drill bits and some sulfer cutting fluid start with a 1/8th drill and drill thru it while cooling with the oil then keep going up in size in 1/16ths till its totally out . center punch it first so its some what straight . and let the bit do its job with light pressure DO NOT lean into it as it will destroy the bits cutting edge or catch and snap the drill then your screwed as cobalt is harder than rock . you can also try loosening it with heat and beeswax heat it up till its almost red hot then drop bees wax on it and it will melt and suck it self into the gaps and lubricates it and some times pops it loose .
Take them to a machine shop and have them drilled out right,shouldn"t cost that much or take very long.
Heat the pin, concentrate your heat on the pin but before the surrounding metal turns red , quench the pin. Do this about 4-5 times & it should start to move for you. You'll be shrinking the pin.
Impact gun/muffler gun/zip gun.... whatever they call it in your part of the world. Some heat and meting some candle wax on the pin won't hurt either.
You need to find a machine shop with a Bridgeport type milling machine, where they can clamp the hinge down solid and then drill the old pivot bolt/pin out either with good cobalt drills or a carbide endmill (if all else fails). That is the course of action least likely to further fucker up your hinges. If you cannot find anyone locally to do it, send me a PM and I'll do them for you.
My chosen ride that must remain nameless is notorious for stubborn door hinge pins. I soaked mine in penetrating oil, then heated them with a propane torch and more oil then used an air driven impact with a pointed tool which is now not pointed but it eventually drove them out. But as others have said, maybe taking them to a machine shop would be best. they could also ream them oversize if needed.
heat the hinge pin and quench it as stated before, and id go a step further and heat the hinge itself and then put an ice cube on the hinge pin(upside down so the water doesnt drip on the hinge)
Cant drive them out until you dril lthe pin, is not nessarally straigt it might be on an angle just did 50 merc hindges pins are not hardened take a pair of verniers and check the diameter of the pin start with a small drill bit and work your way up DONT drill all the way through go the same depth everytime you drill leaving about a quater inch at the bottom then heat the hindge red if you like take a drift ad drive it using the bottom quater inch as a bottom point for the punch your drilling leaves very little material down the sides and allows it to have a place to collaps when driven out it will look like a empty 45 shell caseing. 100% quarqnted method.your using the bottom to drive on if you drive the entire pin you have to clear the whole distanceall the way out your just wedging it tighter.when the remainder of the pin is out you have the correct angle of the manafacture model a might be up straight if the pin is broken of inside the strap about a quater inch use a self centering prick punch so your drill is somewhat centered.I had 2 new pins made for mine after i drilled them out for fitment so the holes were round. check the drill size have the pins be oversize like 3-4 thousandths mine were tight so I chucked them up in drill press and run a file overand then fine emery paper to smooth them. have them leave a sholder at the top so they dont drop out.little white grease drive them in I hit the tops with the mig one snall spot weld and they arnt going any where. .I used a peice of mild steel rod it was 3/8 left the top 3/8 for the head and had the rest machined $30 for the pair.Good luck!! Baron von Vasnic
I too had the same problem with the hinge pins on my 26T. I took the advice of someone here on the HAMB and soaked the pin in Kroll Oil frequently for about two days. I then used an Impact Wrench with a pointed bit and the pins popped right out. Surprised me!
I tried everything, Wax, heat, freezer.......nothing worked. I drilled them out, it actually didn't take as long as I thought. I broke 2 bits in the process but I am still pretty happy. I am probably gonna catch flack for how I fixed them, but it worked and didn't cost me anything. I started with a 1/4" bit and drilled through them. Punched out the pins. I then removed the round spacers from the bucket (this made room for bolt head) and tack welded the bucket to the hinge. I then progressively drilled up to a 3/8" diameter. I pushed the bolt in and put a nut on it. I am going to tack the bolt to and nut to the bucket to force the hinge to swing on the bolt and not the bolt in the bucket. They are super tight no play! What I like about this is you can draw the bolt up tight and take out any up and down slack between the hinge and bucket.
If you've got room now, do yourself a favor and put an oilite bronze washer between the hinge and the bucket on the bottom side (the side that takes all the weight). That'll keep your hinge groan and creak free for many years, especially if you lube the pivot periodically. By making the hinge swing on the bolt instead of the bolt swinging inside the bucket, you've increased your bearing area by about 800%. It ought to last for a good long time like that.
Lots of good advice but I need to add one caution! - If you use the Kroil do not use heat as well. Heated kroil gives off smoke that is very nasty. Or do it outside and wear a resperator. Kroil's been outlawed in many manufacturing plants because of health and safety issues. It's great stuff when it's not heated.
That was my thought.......57 years of service the way it was. It should last forever this way. I was considering a Teflon washer and figured it would wear to quick. I hadn't thought of the Bronze, THANKS FOR THE ADVICE!!! That's the good thing about these boards and putting your heads together.....
No worries sir, happy to help. Bronze may be hard to find at the hardware store, but even an ordinary soft brass washer will wear longer than anything made from plastic. I recommend the oilite bronze because it is oil impregnated, which makes it self lubricating. That will help stop squeaks and groans at the source, even if you get lax with your maintenance (like we all do ). If your local hardware stores are as crummy as mine are, you can very likely find what you need at McMaster Carr's website, but you'd have to pay shipping, wait for it to show up, etc. Glad it all turned out like you wanted it to.
That's funny^^^...having to WAIT for McMaster-Carr. I must live too close to one of their warehouses because every time I order from them it comes so fast that the delivery is practically here by the time I confirm the order on my computer. Seriously, usually the next day.
Heh. That's quite true. The longest I've ever had to wait on McMaster Carr was two days. But that's still longer than it takes to go two blocks to the hardware store.
replacement hinges dont cost that much for all the time and trouble , I would buy new ones or if you have a drill press you could drill them out but like I said get some new ones and use your time on something else
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