Just checking, coming from the world of raised jeeps and in those applications I was forced to fab my own track bar or use an adjustable unit. Well I put 2" lowering blocks on my plymouth and fabbed up an adjustable bar for the rear while I had it off the ground. Just wondering if it was necessary before I mount this puppy up. The only reason I ask is because I've read plenty of threads about lowering blocks but never is there a mention of axle tracking issues. Thanks gentleman!
Set it on the ground and measure your wheel to fender well clearance on both sides. That will answer it definitively.
roger that, I just didn't know if it was a must when lowering a certain amount or if it differs vehicle to vehicle.
If you are reffering to a strut that is attached to the rear axle and the frame to prevent side-side movement, yes. But they are commonly referred to as "panhard" bars here. Needed for suspensions that feature axle locators mounted perpendicular to the axle.
Sorry guys, like I said, coming from the world of lifting jeeps with coils. This whole thing with lowering cars with leaf springs is new to me. The previous owner of my plymouth put a ford 8" rear in it with a custom length panhard bar. I put lowering blocks in the rear and recognize Ill need a shorter bar in theory So I made a new adjustable one. Just wanted to make sure this is common practice. I know the need for one and know how to measure for one. Just wanted input. Thanks!
If it has leaf springs, then no, not necessary. It would help locate the axle more rigidly, but is it really necessary? Probably not, unless your tires are that >< close to the fender wells.
Not very common that a parallel leaf car will have a panhard bar. In fact they fight the standard bushings a bit. BUT if it has one stock, then yes you will probably need to adjust the length with a 2" static lowering.
Never seen a Plymouth with leafs, and a panhard bar. Unless you are planning on autocross, it is overkill. If you are bent on running one, it needs to be horizontal when the car is loaded, at ride height.
Alittle more detail about the car. It's a 55 Plymouth Plaza with a 302/aod combo and a ford 8" rear. The previous owner made a custom length, non-adjustable panhard bar and has that on the car. Should I pull this off the car and see where the rear sits with no bar? I feel like this non-adjustable bar is going to push the rear to one side when back on the ground. Would you guys just not run a bar? (The reason I don't just lower it and see where I sit is because I'm welding new floors in the rear currently)
I'd take the bar off and just Pitch it. It does nothing but cause issues, not prevent them. On parrell leaf springs, if you felt the need for a locator it should be a Wats Link not a panhard. You don't need any thing on that car besides good shocks. The Wizzard
Never heard of this, and ive never had a problem with 2" blocks on racecars as far as lateral deflection. But back when we used to use Chrysler leafs, since the back of the spring was so much longer than the front we would mount the rear 1/2"-1" wider than the front to prevent any lateral deflection. But im with the "a panhard bar with leafs is going to create more problems than it solves" camp.
Makes sense. So what are the down sides of running the adjustable that I made? Again, just curious. Trying to understand the geometry in my back end.
Are you paying attention? If the rear is suspended by parallel leaf springs there is NO gain nor need for a pan hard bar. Pan hards prevent/limit side to side movement. The bar added will limit the leaves ability to do their job properly.
The leaf spring bushings and mounts, by their very nature hold the rear end from moving side to side. panhard bars are designed to locate the rear from moving side to side, but in reality by their nature actually move the rear end slightly each way sue to the arc that they follow when they travel. So having the panhard bar moving through an arc, and the leafs trying to stay straight in their path causes a conflict.
I recall 40s Cadillacs had leaf springs and panhard bar. Couldn't understand why as it pushed suspension across car as bar wasn't parallel to horizontal road surface. Suspension arc IMHO was compromised. I've used sway bars on leaf spring cars without issue. If set up correctly I would just use leaf springs and not use panhard bar at all.
Be careful if you decide to run one. It will most likely cause the suspension to bind up if you hit a pot hole. It will need to be as long as possible also to limit the arc of the Bar. When the suspension moves up and down it is pushing or pulling on the leaf spring perches, bushings and mounts. We only run track (panhard) bars on cars with 3 or 4 link suspension primarily here in the Race Shop. I did add one to a Mazda R100 back in the days of circle tracking but i used it only to transfer weight to the right side in a turn and the suspension had very little travel up and down.
So the issues I've been having with the car trying to throw me into a ditch whenever I hit a pot hole could be cause by the last owners panhard bar? Awesome. It's already off the car. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Can you take a picture of the panhard bar with all 4 tires on the ground at ride heigth? I would like to see how the bar angled or is ti somewhat level.
Well it would definitely be tracking goofy if I put the non adjustable bar back on now. Between the lowering blocks and the new shocks which replaced shocks that were not correct for the car, it would sit way off center. Currently hunting a trans leak or I could get a test drive in. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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