Are Roller Rockers good for extended street use?

Trying to decide which type of rocker arm to use, this will be a street motor (383 SBC)I am more concerned with reliability more than squeeking every ounce of power out of it but im also wondering where the limitations of the ball type trunion are. My cam is Hyd Roller W/valve lift of .550-.560 with 1.5 ratio. The spring pressure is 135 on the seat 340 @max lift. 360 spring rate. I have used the Comp Magnum roller tip rockers in the past and have many thousands of miles and abused the hell out of them without any problems. But with a little less lift and spring pressures. I've heard the the full rollers are not great for longevity in street motors that the Fulcrum needles can fail and come apart. Any suggestions or ideas on this? Comp's website says the magnums are good to 350 Spring rates their tech says 400 and .600 lift no problems? Thanks in Advance Mike

 

In the '90s the rule of thumb for a hot cam, like yours, was to replace them every 25K miles. We usually just replaced them every couple years on a daily driver. Never had a problem.

In addition to HP they give you better gas mileage, not sure how much but my buddy was running a 350 w/ similar cam, 10.5:1, trick flow heads, hooker super comps in a '68 Camaro w/ 3.07 out back getting 16 miles to a gallon.

Kipp

 

I've run the Comp. Cams steel rockers for extended periods of time on the street. I used their stainless rockers on two different engines (small block Chevy's), both daily drivers for years without problem.
I did have one that seemed to be wearing strange on the tip. I replaced it, no further problems.
All tolled, probably well over 130,000 miles split fairly evenly between the two cars, without incedent.

I wouldn't be afraid to use their new Ultra Pro Magnum on the street.

Mike

 

I believe they're installed on Chevy RamJet engines, straight out of the box.

 

Full rollers will work fine on the street, although there may be quality differences between brands/models. GM installed Crane aluminum 'gold' roller rockers as OEM on the LT4 motors in the mid-90s, and more than a few current OEM motors from Ford and GM feature full roller rockers new from the factory. Use a quality rocker and you shouldn't have any problems....

 

I have the basic Crane aluminum ones in my SBC. Been in 12 years & 40,000 miles, no issues.

I just drove to Carlisle last month. My RPM avg on the highway was 3400-3700 for several hours at a time between gas stops. I also have my rev limiter set at 6500.

 

As stated above good quality and a full roller rocker will give you a better shot a getting the correct rocker ratio with a stamped its a crapshoot for sure.

 

I have Harlan Sharp roller rockers on the 331 sbf in my 27. Been on there for years and lots and lots of miles. No problem whatsoever. If anything, roller rockers should last even better than non roller ones, as long as you buy quality ones.

Don

 

I really don't se any problem running them on the street for extended periods of time. I agree with Saltflats that they are definately better then the stamped ones for sure.
Jay

 

Hmmm 3500@ cruising speed. Sounds like a fun ride! Went across the country once in a car like that. Roller rockers are on a lot of new cars these days, many with over 200k and have never been touched.

 

I got about 150K on a set of cranes, don't know what extended street use is to most folks.

 

They're factory installed in my cammer motor....

 

If you replace the 383 part and add 406 that is my exact motor on the stand at this moment and I too have the exact same question. I think I will go with the Scorpion, only because of 3 people I've talked to that have run others and now run the Scorpion rollers Epoxy screens in the lifter valley if you worry about them coming apart.

 

yeah its fun. I thought about dropping in a TKO 5 speed, but the motor doesn't wake up till about 3000 rpm anyway. I like the feel of a hurst shifter with an M-21 besides.

 

Sure, doesn't everyone cruise at 3500 ??

Don

 

have Harland Sharps on my O/T towing vehicle with a Hydraulic roller 7.4L BBC , 50K later and some major long haul towing no problems and the open spring pressure is 500 pounds at .513 lift . and when towing it sees 3200 rpm for long periods (1200 miles 20 hours ) (every 6 hours, having to stop for fuel) . I check them every now and then ( 2-3 years) to see if they are ok

 

As I understand it, the problem with the cheap aluminum roller rockers is that some of them lack steel sleeves in the body for the roller bearings, so they ride on aluminum. Over time, the aluminum wears, & the needles drop out.

Make sure whatever you get does not have needle bearings riding on aluminum

BTW, my new motor for my 59 is getting Harland Sharp HD 1.6 rockers

http://www.harlandsharp.com/

 

Boy! Glad to hear I aint the only crazy bastard! My 550+hp 383 sbc/Liberty faceplated TKO 600,Stude HATES anything under 3500 r.p.m. and LOVES 4000-7500!!! I cruise at 3500 minimum...

 

Well I feel better about them now. I've seen some failures even with good quality rockers, but in race motors mostly. I have ran them on street motors before but not on ones that I would hop in and drive 500 miles at a time. I do that with my motor now that has the Comp Magnums (ball type trunion) and I usually only turn it 3200-3400 on the highway. Do you guys think those would work well with this combo too? I will have to decide I guess The rollers riding on the aluminum is scary and that's probably what I've heard about the needles coming apart from.

 

If your worried about it lasting on the street. Buy good stuff. Start with good push rods, strong push rod guides, Crane Gold wide body roller rockers, ARP rocker arm studs and stud girdles. This will help guide the rocker arm and keep it from flopping around. When the rocker arm flops around it knots the bearing out. Roller rocker arms helps lower the side load on the valve that stock rockes cause from fricion on end of valve.


Toxic Waste

 

As above..Only I add lash caps, spreads the roller contact load on the valve tip and oil deflectors [although the stud girdles will do so] to be sure the trunions and then rollers get good oil supply..

 

I have a bunch of money tied up in this motor already. Its not very HAMB friendly so I didn't post much info on it but its a 6" rod 383 with forged pistons, Hyd roller, Morel lifters, AFR heads, ETC... I am buying good stuff that's why I was worried about longevity of full rollers. I've heard stories about some of them losing needle bearings and wiping out motors when used on the street over time. I do have ARP rocker studs and good guide plates. I need the rockers first to figure out the pushrod length. I had planned on a good chromoly push rod. I will chip it at 6000. I didn't think at 6000 that would be as much of an issue. So I wasn't planning on running girdles.

 

My wife's 93 Cobra Mustang came stock with them. 210,000 miles on them so far.

 

do you think that with roller rockers you need to run guide plates ?

 

I have been running roller rockers in my 455 Olds for well over 10 years and the car goes down the highway at 3500rpm for miles at a time. Haven't had any issues yet good quality oil changed at the right interval's is all I recommend.

 

So I went with some Scorpion Endurance Rollers. I've read several good reviews of them and seen them recommended by reputable engine guys USA made.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp3000bl

 

russo , if your running a HYd roller , you might want to think about the rocker girdles if its more than .500 lift specially if its a 3/8 stud as them springs are going to be heavy on the weights and you intend to push more than 4000 rpm . I bent some 3/8 arp studs with a mild hyd cammed motor ( .500 lift ) the roller tip allows some of the force to transfer latterally into the stud when it starts to lift the valve something not saw with the standard style rocker because of the wiping action . just need something to help spread the force around .

 

"rollers riding on the aluminum"
>>IF<< that is really done I'd expect the aluminum bore to die in minutes.
Sounds like a legend. I'd have to see that in person to believe it.

Volvo steering u-joints have needle and aluminum bodies. the "cross" is hardened steel, and there is a thin steel race.
http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/images/parts/lg_95e7de46-4732-42d6-ab81-495b46e85b83.jpg

"Drawn cup" needle bearings are cheap. The thin shell "cup" outer race is a carefully hardened and beautifully finished.
In even light industrial service when the inner or outer race are customer supplied the requirements are hardened steel. pages A-27 and A-28 here -
http://www.koyousa.com/brochures/pdfs/catb2016e-4.pdf

 

I have a '68 F-100 with the original 360 FE motor. The motor was rebuilt a few years back and it was stroked to a 432cu.in. with a mild cam. I now have about 30K on the built motor and I have a valve tap. This is almost a daily driver and I plan on putting a lot more years and miles on for cross country camping trips. My original motor builder wants to put roller rocker arms in it. Will these hold up over the years and miles that I plan to put on the truck/motor?

 

ooops totally missed that one. Sorry