P15-D24 to 95-2001 Explorer Disk conversion.

Mines been working great I should have moved the bracket for a little clearance on the tie rod ends...it made alignment interesting. Some day I might re make them with a little more room. This is great tech in my opinion probably the most valuable tech I've ever gotten of here! Thanks again!

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thanks again,, we are going to start with a rough mock up off of your templet and go from there, my guess the mounting holes may be a litttle different,,then again the spindle in that area may be the same,, thanks again don in PA

 

Thanks for the printable templates!
I hope to do this on my 39' P8 soon.
Funny thing, my neighbor got all drunk and rolled his 2000 Explorer right by my mail box! Totaled! I know the wrecker guy and if it is'nt claimed in 30 days. I can get it for junk price! Hope to use it as a donor since my coupe is an empty metal bubble at this point. Thanks again.

 

Measure and check but the rear end may be a super good match. I know that it was going to be about 3/4 inch different on each side. I have a 2001 rear diff sitting on the ground outside my place. It was to go in mine but I sold my 47 before I could install it. If you measure the outside of the rear end wheel surface to wheel surface and I can do the same and let you know what width the rear end is if you are interested. That would give you rear disk as well. Even if you run a flathead the right rear diff can be a real asset. I believe that all you should need to do is remove and install new mounts for the rear springs.

 

I wonder if I can remove most of the leafs to soften them up for the light weight coupe? The entire brake system and pedals is what I'm after. Besides any other donor parts. As you can see by my Avatar I'm lacking many appointments!

 

your pc,,,, question on the front disc conversion,,we have not gotten to it yet,,but realy soon we hope,,what size rims were you using on the 47 ? he wants to run a set of 14 inch rims off of a dodge mirada we have all polished up,,, or do you thnk it will have to be 15 inch to clear the caliper ? thanks in advance,,don

 

Explorer is going to have hanging pedals, a lot of work to pull, it depends on how the bracket is shaped as to whether you can use it or not. Biggest issue becomes firewall room and clearance for a V8 engine, particularly if you use a booster. Hanging brackets usually need to be tied into the dash where the steering column mounts up, or bolt to the lower dash rail.

However, another choice you could look at is the 96-up GM G-van pedal unit. It's a small simple bracket and the pedal has a ton of offset to the right, so you can hang it close to the edge of the firewall. The only catch here is if it's too far out you have no room for a booster (except a hydroboost) but they're big and ugly anyhow.

 

I would imagine that the 14s would be too small. A 15 inch stock wheel may not work either. I had 15 inch mag wheels and they fit fine. It depends on the cut of the wheel and offset. I would say it will not work with a 14 but heck... Expect it to not fit but try anyway.
I think the main issue with a 14 is the tie rod end and arm off the spindle.

 

your pc ok thanks we will see what happens,,,, we can put a 14 inch rim on the car now and see if it clears the stock stuff like u suggested,,thanks

 

According to the VIN the 2000 Explorer I found has 4.10 gears. The tow man just got ownership and wants $500 for the whole thing. I hope to sell off some parts and get enough donor parts to make it worth the cost. Motor trans and drivetrain should be fine.

 

Sounds like a bargain!

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Thats Awesome. The 410 gears are about what the car would have come with from the factory. Not great for milage but great for hotrodding. Sounds like you are wanting to utilize the engine and trans too? Keep in mind that if you do there will be some wiring and computers that will have to be integrated into your car. If its a overhead valve (pushrod motor) and not the overhead cam engine like my 97 I drive right now. They have a lot of PEP and get about 18 to 22 miles to the gallon. My Explorer weighs about the same as the 47 coupe does. If you are feeling like you have a fat wallet then they even make a stroker and supercharger kit for the 4.0.

 

UPDATE!!!
Server that was storing the files of the bracket scans went down. Here are the files if you want to save and print them out...
There is a ruler in each scan. Be sure to put a ruler up on the page you print to make sure that the print job came out the right size before cutting your brackets. Also these are a hair rough so feel free to tweek the hole placement. They fit just fine on my car but might be slightly off on yours. ENJOY!

 

If you are using the original brake master cylinder or notice that you have to pump the brakes to get them to work then put in a residual valve. Normally a single 2lb valve would work just fine mounted on the master or up by the T before it splits into the two separate lines going to the calipers.

 

yourpc48,
Did you use the original m/c and original rear brakes on you conversion? If so, how did it work out? Did it require a lot of foot pressure?
Thanks in advance

 

Hi. Hey I did leave the other original parts in. It worked but really needed a residual valve. I sold the car before I had a chance to install the residual valves in the front system. Too much bleedback to the master. The pedal ended up soft and had to be pumped. Otherwise it worked pretty good. Stopped nice as long as the pedal was up.

 

I need to get the templates back up on my site. The site is moving to a new server. The links to the templates in an earlier post will be back as soon as I get a chance.

 

one other quick question. Your Plymouth hard brake line has SAE sizing and threads. Does the standard hard line screw into the Mazda line or did you have some kind of an adaptor? I'm guessing the Mazda line is metric - maybe not.
Jim

 

I really don't remember now. However, I also changed the front lines. You should be able to verify the thread pitch while you are at the parts house. That's what I did.

 

Did your drums have the lug plate on the outside or inside of the drum? My '50 has a lug plate on the outside of the drum. Do i need to be looking for different drums then to make this work or will mine work?

 

Jayne. Unfortunately I don't believe that the plate that I made will work on your 50 unless they used the same spindle and back plate as the 46-48. I have never owned a 50 so I'm not really sure what the drum assembly looks like. On mine there were rivets and the drum came right off. No plate in the way. The plate I installed my studs in was part of the hub itself. Take a look at the pics at the start of this post to see what mine looked like. Wish I could be of more help.

 

No problem bud, when i yank my drums off i will shoot you a pic. The plates seem to be part of the hubs, they are just one the outboard side of the drums

 

It's been a long while since I shot you those questions bud, but here is the pictures of my 1950 drum vs a 1946/7 drum. As you can see my drums are way weird and I wouldn't have been able to do this swap with them. I've got a buddy that had gotten himself a parts car for his 47 and was willing to give me the drums off of it so I could do this swap! Bering sizes matched, but I do believe my backing plates are larger so I will have to fab up my own caliper mount plates, but with your post it will make it way easier!

 

Hey. That's Great. Glad you are figuring it out. What some people have said is that they were going to try to modify my bracket. The hole spacing to mount the bracket to the spindle is different for sure. If you do like I did, you should be able to tweak the bracket I made to work for you. I didn't know that the P15 was the only one with that size spacing when I originally did this project. Of course that wouldn't have mattered much since I was doing it for my own car. The Dodge and Desoto cars use the bigger spindle spacing for mounting their backing plates. If you get it figured out I'm sure that others would be glad to see it posted.

 

thanks buddy! Will definitely try and make sure I take more pictures of some of this, I've been trying to keep a good progression log of photos of everything I have been doing since I am having to do the motor swap, I decided to get a few of these conversions done while it's apart (just uploaded a bunch to my album). Time and money don't always agree with me thou lol. Was just looking on rockauto and I am looking at their caliper and rotor kit $139 and it isn't too much more than I would be paying for pullyourpart salvage parts around here. Glad your pictures are not uploaded from photobucket like a lot of others on here, because I can still SEE your pictures lol Glad to have the references to go on!

 

yourpc48
Thank you so much work is greatly appreciated. i am going to start my conversion ASAP. one question can you use the stock wheel bolt or do you have to put studs in?

 

old thread. he was last here in sept 2017

 

there are SOOOO many threads just cant find one that is a little more detatiled. Also Scarbird seems a little high unless there kit is really all that?

 

@Edward Garcia Having done several Mopar and Buick stud vs bolt replacements, I am an advocate of the studs. Easy to do, easier to mount wheels.......also retains the discs in place with out bolting/riveting them to the hub. You don't 'have' to put studs in, but why wouldn't you?

Ray

 

thank you so much. did you do this brake conversion or did you buy someones kit?