This is what's the beginning of most home builders problems no matter what part your working on. If you really don't know anything, the instructions aren't going to help you much. A basic understanding is necessary even when it comes to Tying your shoes. Don't blame parts for your lack of basics. In other words, If your not qualifyed and are dead set on trying at least find a Coach for the first time. The Wizzard
Wow, 4 pages and counting. Didn't think I was starting a shit storm when I hit the go button. I've built custom harnesses from scratch, modified factory harnesses, got a degree in electrical/electronics back in 77, bla bla bla... The problem is the blinkers don't work and without a schematic all I can do it check the purple wire at the steering column for +12 (it doesn't) and verify the fuse I suspect is the correct one has +12 (it does) on one side. The harness is now buried up under the dash and access is difficult at best. My point is with a schematic ALL of my problems would be easy to fix and not really a problem at all and I wouldn't have to call some jack ass every something doesn't work, but the turd at EZ refuses to supply one. So, I'm glad you geniuses didn't have problems with your EZ harness, but maybe in the future you will and you'll have a little light bulb come on when you start to troubleshoot and realize what I'm talking about.
At the risk of being a smart-a$$, if you have the above claimed expertise, why do you need a schematic? This would be a pretty simple trouble-shoot; either the wire is connected in the wrong place on one end, or it's broken/interrupted someplace. If this is the power supply to the turns, then put one probe on the end of the wire where you lack power, and with all the fuses removed, check for continuity to each fuse contact at the panel. Don't forget the flasher has to be in place (and are you sure that is good?) and you'll quickly establish if the wire goes to the wrong, right or no place. All a schematic will tell you is where it's supposed to go. And the fact that you've 'lost track' of this wire tells me that you failed to actually check the harness before installation to verify that the harness was correct. I'm not absolving the manufacturer of all blame, but I would never install a harness, even one I've built myself, until all this has been checked and at least double-checked to be sure the right wire is going the right place and I knew where both ends were. Mistakes do happen, and given the sometime difficulty of accessing installed wiring, an ounce of prevention can be worth several pounds of cure...
12v. source, continuity tester, or 12v test lite. I used a gm lite switch and needed to know what all the taps are for. dome lite, dash dimmer, park lites, 12v in, etc. these are the tools you'll need to sort through it.
I've used EZ wiring harnesses twice and both times the turn signal flashers died in about a week of use..... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So, I'm glad you geniuses didn't have problems with your EZ harness, but maybe in the future you will and you'll have a little light bulb come on when you start to troubleshoot and realize what I'm talking about.[/QUOTE] If this is your attitude when calling EZ for help , its no wonder you aren't getting anywhere. I suspect you have informed them of your superior intellect . I wired my coupe with their kit . Everything worked perfectly and has for years....I must be a geniuses too.
The basics turn-signals With hazards. The canceling turn signal contraption switch you are using may have its own schematics. If you said what it is was, I missed it and I'm more than reasonably certain there is a pin out available for it. Your steering column either has a Oem style plug or it doesn't. This plug will have a pinout too. If it doesnt then dust of your degree , polish up your test light, put a fresh battery in your multi meter and figure it out.
Dane, These are the same guys that don't need a road map to get where they are going either. LOL I have an uninstalled EZ harness. Can I be of some assistance with it?
Bob, you need to forget everything ,,, then relearn it correctly. If I were to begin looking for a problem, the first place to look is where wires pass thru any grommet, tube, or confinement. That's 101! Lets say a Chevy or Pontiac won't start and its verified to be a wiring issue. First place to look is that damn conduit by the starter. And It's only 6 inches long. Next is around the brake booster where those wires pass thru and get confined. With much respect Bob, your opinion is wrong and your ideal is based on incorrect information. I'm going to stop hijacking Danes thread now.
Wanna have some real fun? Try wiring a Pantera...... I used a Rebel, they extended the engine harness wires free of charge. I had bluprint sized factory wiring diagrams and it still took forever! I got most all of the factory idiot lights and switches working. The headlight circuit is a 3 part process, jumping everywhere. Point is, you have to do some thinking, interpreting and modifiying on most any harness, depending on what periferals (switches, etc. aftermarket or stock). Do your bench work first, organize your wires, make your own notes and diagrams, pull sections 1 at a time, solder connections properly and use shrink wrap. Always pull through a grommet when going through metal. ZIp ties are your friend. Use the hell out of small ones as you run wires an tie new wires to the bundle, then come back with bigger final zip ties and cut out all the small random ties. Leave a little slack for servicability around accessories. I like to velcro mount the fuse box so you don't have to stand on your head in the dark looking under the dash trying to change a fuse.
Sanity saver and thought organizer for early preliminary work. You'll get the idea from this pic. Your labels might be ... NSS Rear running lights Front running lights Headlights To/from instrument cluster Ground block Power windows WTF is this ? And so on and on.
For what it's worth I just wired a 55 Nomad EZ LS fuel injection American Auto wire car harness and Dakota Digital instruments . AAW was a great help , but did not want me using the schematic and go to each little page for each bundle. With the schematic you get the whole picture. Easier for me. I'm with you I like a complete diagram so I can trace each wire start to finish. Good luck on your project.
try pulling the flasher cans and run jumpers to the opposite contacts. This is what happened to a customers car. The flasher cans were wired wrong from the ez wire factory in china
Quote; " Originally Posted by Dane View Post, Didn't think I was starting a shit storm when I hit the go button. I've built custom harnesses from scratch, modified factory harnesses, got a degree in electrical/electronics back in 77, bla bla bla..." I'm surprised with all your knowledge that a little issue with turn signals sent you looking for help. What would you have done if a Customer had brought you the car with that specific issue and just said fix it? The Wizzard
Previous owner of the Nash wired it, but did it with the dash still in (I assume). I wanted to clean it up, so I basically rewired it. PO sent the laminated schematic with the car when purchased. The kit was American Autowire and the schematic was very detailed. It was very easy, just time consuming! I learned a lot too.... It is pretty easy once you get through one.
Your problem could be in the column and not the harness. Like Crazy Steve said you should be able to figure it out with all that education. It's not that complicated.
How many people go through a new wiring harness and check it to verify it's all good? If you do, I bet you're one of the few! With all of them I've done, I guess I've been lucky, because I've never gone through and checked or verified any of them before installing them. All I do is unroll the looms and lay them out so I can route them to their intended areas. And having a degree or training in an electrical field doesn't help much in automotive wiring, unless that's what your electrical degree is in! I spent 35+ years as an electrician, and I still have to think about things as I assemble a car's wiring system. It's not rocket science, but it does demand some thought process, and even more if it doesn't work right.
A simple schematic point a 1 2 3 thru 47,000 • • • l l l • • • 1 2 3 thru 47,000 Point b More detailed, the numbers a1 a2 a3 - b1 b2 b3 May but not always , have actual component names. He'll you can add anything that you want. Look at a connector plug pin out for a late model fuse box connector. They usually have a "c" designation for connector and that results in C1 identification or C2 345678 C 100 is usually the firewall connector. C1 pin 67 • l ( lt grn) • C167 pin 3 Coolant temp sensor
just installed the Speedway EZ wire in a friends Av8 and couldn't get the flashers to flash. Every freakin' bulb he had installed was a LED..... Installed 1157 bulbs in the taillights and VOILA.... blinkers now blink!!
You guys and your color harness! Hell the first EZ kit i installed they only made them in all black wires, try that with needing reading glasses, the printing on the wires was still hard to read even with the glasses. I always verify each circuit works before moving on to the next, nothing like having to remove the nicely attached harness to find a problem. Yep LED's take a different flasher that the ones for the 1157 type.
I've installed a painless, EZ and rebel wire. And always seemed to have trouble getting the turn signals to work right. Everything else is simple except for the steps involving turn signals. You may get a better service from other companies but the kits a diagrams are not very different.
If the harness doesn't cost more than $99, then I wouldn't expect much support from the factory, especially if it is made in China. Some of the Rhode Island wiring harnesses are in the thousands, and there I would expect good support. Getting back to the main issue. Turn signals are simple! You either have a 3 position SP3T (center off) switch, or you have a multi-pole switch. The first is for separate turn / brake signals. The multi-pole switch is used for common turn/brake signals. As was mentioned, LED type bulbs require an electronic flasher, not the old style flasher. The old style requires a certain current to flow, which is normally matched to 2 or 3 bulbs. The LED bulbs draw very small current, therefore the old flasher will not work. (Sure you could put a big wattage resistor to emulate the old bulbs, but why). As far as wiring harnesses go, well I for one would rather wire the vehicle myself and be done with it. My harnesses are known as "SUCCESS" wiring harnesses, as they work 1st time, every time. Lastly, I would run the wiring to the back along the inside of the headliner, above the doors. Pretty safe there. EZ to get pissed off, Painless is more pain, rebel is without a cause, and on and on, LOL!
Love the EZ harness in my '51 Ford, but I went to wire the brake light switch the other day and it was very lacking....the wires for the switch and the brake lights just went back into the harness and then dead-ended, no connection to fuse block for power or anything. I can just fix it myself, but this was very strange....
I have used EZ three times, and speedway once. I have a question on one of the the EZ harnesses got great customer service. the phone tech saved my tail and it all worked out in the end.
For a hands on sport ...there sure a lot of "all thumbs "mechanics competing I make my own harness with a 30 year old GM service manual section 8A to guide me
if you have the above claimed expertise, why do you need a schematic? Cause I need a schematic to tell me where to look and there is zero documentation about the flasher circuit. There are two flasher cans and neither is labeled or referred to in the booklet. Every wire is black so there are no color code clues to help. The book uses lots of color code references but the wires are all black so the book is no help at all. Clearly the book author thinks I received a harness with color coded wires. The wires are labeled every 5 inches or so, but nothing in the book refers those labels used on the wires. This would be a pretty simple trouble-shoot; either the wire is connected in the wrong place on one end, or it's broken/interrupted someplace. Without a schematic how would you know if it's connected in the wrong place? How do I ohm out the wire to see if it's broken/interrupted if I don't know where it goes to in the fuse block? There is nothing in the booklet that connects fuse locations to wire labels. If this is the power supply to the turns, then put one probe on the end of the wire where you lack power, and with all the fuses removed, check for continuity to each fuse contact at the panel. Don't forget the flasher has to be in place (and are you sure that is good?) and you'll quickly establish if the wire goes to the wrong, right or no place. Why on earth should I pay $175 for a harness and have to reverse engineer it? All a schematic will tell you is where it's supposed to go. Seriously?? Rather than have a schematic make it a 5 minute trouble shoot I should reverse engineer the entire fuse block? I'll say it again - Why on earth should I pay $175 for a harness and have to reverse engineer it? And the fact that you've 'lost track' of this wire tells me that you failed to actually check the harness before installation to verify that the harness was correct. I'm calling bull shit on you here... You really expect me to believe I should have verified every wire with an ohm meter before installing the harness? I don't believe you do that either. Mistakes do happen, and given the sometime difficulty of accessing installed wiring, an ounce of prevention can be worth several pounds of cure. The ounce of prevention should have been a schematic. If I had one all of this would have been fixed in the time it took to type all this... I invite you to come on over and demonstrate your electrical skills and how quick you could fix the problem. I'll buy the beer.
Dane, pull your flasher can and see if the prongs are marked + for battery voltage and L for line. See the pics I posted earlier. The fuse box terminals need to correspond to those markings, L would need to head to the TS switch. If these are the wires the guys are talking about needing switched in the EZ kits , that should be super easy to ring out. This would be the fuse panels fault if its wrong not yours. Now, all black wires are about as stupid as can be. There's a reason why the OEM use different colors, its cheaper in the long run for them too otherwise they wouldn't do it.
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