I just put a new fuel pump on filled the glass bowl, I had to put gas in the carburetor then it started and ran fine. The car started up ok until I let it sit for two days, the carburetor was not getting gas. Again I put gas in the carburetor and it started right up and continued each time when I shut it off. If the car sits for over one day I have to put gas in the carburetor. I have searched this site with no results, searched the internet and got could be one thing or another from gas line having small holes with leaks, worn cam, and air in the line, some say to blow air in the filler neck to push gas to the fuel pump. I don't see any leaks in the fuel line and the glass bowl is full. Has anyone had this happen or know if the carburetor is losing it's prime, and what to do about this problem? With the engine running I can see gas going in the carburetor when I pull the throttle linkage. Thanks in advance Custom50
Is the bowl leaking on the carb? It should easily start after sitting, given the bowl is still full of gas. Rich
I have the same chronic problem with my '50. Let it sit a day too long and the fuel leaks or evaporates from the bowl. start/drive it at least every other day, and there's no problem. I'm going to solve my problem by ordering and installing the 6v inline electric fuel pump that will work in conjunction with the stock pump. It will also be a way to avoid the vapor lock problem. I'm just waiting for Chris to get them in stock at Shoebox Central (405)259-9222. I think Dennis Carpenter has them too.
the-roster I don't see any leaks but the bottom of the carb is a little wet could be from the gas I was putting in the carb before replacing the fuel pump. For some reason the gas will not pump through the carb unless a put some in to prime it then it runs fine. bmeigs I forgot to mention people talking about an electric pump, I'm not a member of that forum so I couldn't ask about the pump. I wasn't sure if there was a 6 volt one or not. I have had the vapor lock on another 50 ford of mine, when I saw the electric pump I thought that should take care of that problem but again I wasn't sure if there was one for a 6 Volt. I will use the info you posted to get one or two from the person you mentioned. What is the PV? Would it be in a rebuild kit? 40fordguy Where is the PV, is it part of the carb? Thanks custom50
Back in the day when I was running flatheads, many times the 'fix' for this was to grind down a dime and place it on he top of the fuel pump rod. Improved the lift and a cheap repair.
roseville carl I found out what the PV is. I'll have to go back to quote the person that posted this. Bruce Lancaster Venturis work strictly on amount of air going through...X amount of air passing through will draw in Y amount of gas... Venturies don't work til enough air is moving to "excite" them. Service bulletins state that a stock V8 doesn't get significant gas through mains/venturis til something over 1,000 RPM, a smaller engine would have to go higher to excite venturies...bogs in main system or mainly from too LITTLE gas in mix as throttles open beyond needs of engine, NOT from "2 carbs dumping in (???) too much gas". Power valve feeds into venturis too, is just like adding another main jet to enrich, no flow til venturi asks for it! -Bruce Lancaster filtzworld I sure hope I don't have to take the fuel pump back off it was a pain at my age. I said I was all over the engine, it was like trying to have sex with a flathead. thanks custom50
The part number for the Carter 6-Volt Electric Fuel Pump is # P4259 if you decide you or anyone else wants one. FYI
Thanks, I think that would be the best way to go, it's not good sitting in a hot car with vapor lock and now with a new pump that has to be primed. I hope it's ok to post a link for the fuel pump. If's it's in violation I will remove it. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Carter-P4259-6-Volt-Electric-Fuel-Pumps,8837.html custom50
Pull the carb off the base, fill the bowl up with gas and place it on a paper towel to see if the power valve is leaking. It is either this or today's ethanol gas which evaporates at a much quicker pace and has a higher boiling point when you turn the car off after a drive and starts to dissipate.
I'd tend to agree the the problem is probably the PV. I notice some of you are recommending an electric fuel pump. Unless there are some other problems that can't be easily solved, this is a "band-aid" approach. I know this is going to start sounding like a rant, but I see band-aid solutions arising from time to time here on the H.A.M.B. I am a firm believer in getting to the root of the real problem and solving that. Einstein once said; "If you have an hour to solve a problem, it is best to spend 55 minutes determining what the problem really is, and 5 minutes solving it". I had the exact same problem with my '51 club coupe 20 years ago, and initially solved it with an electric fuel pump. It wasn't really fixed however, so over the next several years, I kept digging into it. After much effort, I found out I had 2 problems; thi glass bowl was not sealing to the fuel pump base, and I had a power valve intended for a 2100-2110 (55-56 Ford) Holley. The first problem was solved with a new bowl gasket and some wet-or-dry paper; the second was solved by getting the proper 94 power valve. I have been running with no electric fuel pump and 6 volts for the last 15 years. It seems I am seeing more and more "band-aid" solutions (electric fans, water wetter, carb insulators etc.) as time goes by. If you have a basically stock car, stick with what the manufacturer recommended. These cars were reliable drivers when they were new and can still be today, given the proper maintenance. I can't believe how many people advocate a switch to 12 volts when the problem is bad grounds and/or connections on an existing 6 volt system. If you need 12 volts for a bigger engine or some accessories fine, but it's really not a proper fix for bad grounds, We're hot-rodders; we fix things the right way, and really shouldn't try to patch around them.
Strick v8 That is very helpful information, I will do that this winter when the car is parked. I just put insurance back on the car yesterday, I've gone this entire season working on cars but not having one to enjoy driving. Tubman You really made some good points that every car guy should try to follow. The electric pump sounded good but like you said it is not solution to the problem. I really was thinking about switching the 6 volt cars I have to 12 volt because of the starting problems, I just put a new solenoid on the car I'm working on now. When the carburetor gets gas I don't have to touch the gas pedal or choke it turns over great and fires with one touch of the starter button. I just get aggravated at my age when some of the 6 volt cars won't start when hot or the starter pulls the battery down real fast. Thanks to all for the advice, I love old cars and have been messing with them for over 50 years. I don't claim to be a person with more knowledge than I have so I appreciate when car guys can give me information on something I don't know about. I didn't know what p v meant but now i do. I have several cars with problems at this time and I just want to drive one now before winter gets here. Thanks again for all of the help Custom50
Glad I was of some help. The old/leaky fuel pump bowl gasket is more common than people think. If you do your homework, you shouldn't have to convert to 12 volts. Just get a proper sized battery (Group 2). Group 1's are what are commonly available, and they are quite a bit smaller than a Group 2. At Fleet Farm, the Group 1's have 550 CCA, while the Group 2's have 760 CCA. Don't even ask me what I think about 8 volt batteries.
Back in the day when I use to work on them, we had to build up the push rod on the pump. The rod will wear on the cam end. You might want to find what the length should be and weld up the rod in that goes into the fuel pump. Also in hot weather they would vapor lock when the rod was worn.
George I was hoping that I would not have to mess with the fuel pump again since being 67 years old and my body has been broken up with many surgeries. I had the vapor lock last year with one of the flathead 50 fords, I had a new battery a spare one in the trunk to try jump start but it didn't work. A good guy gave me a push and it fired up, after the show when the car cooled down it started. Now that car is sitting because of over heating. When I get a chance I'm going to pull the thermostat's out to see if that helps. Thanks for all of the good help I never knew anything about flathead fords but with this site I'm getting a lot of good information. Custom50
A short video of the 50 Ford running. This car is not a show car but if I can keep it running I would like to enjoy a ride from time to time. I plan to take it out tomorrow that will be the first time in over a year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5k3PTZLH6V0&feature=youtu.be Thanks again for all the help custom50
I took the car for a test ride today, and the car was not running very well. I was by myself trying to make a video so the quality is not so good but I was trying to drive hold the camera, not hit the people walking, and making sharp turns. You can hear just before the 4 minute mark of me trying to give the car more gas. I made it home but as I was getting the garage door open, the car quit, and would not start. The bottom of the carb was wet with gas, and I think it was vapor locked. When the car cooled down I put gas in the carb got it started and was able to back it in the garage. I think I will see if I can put the power valve in as was suggested. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJtaJ1z2M5Y Thanks for the tips custom50
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