So the previous owner removed the passing gear kick down lever and just put a spring to pull the lever forward on the trans. My question is I want something alittle more reliable so I don't kill the bands in the trans. Or am I crazy I worrying about this. I was thinking about putting a manual valve body in it just to not have to worry about it. So which way should I go with this? And if the valve body is the way to go is one company better than another? transgo? Cheettah? B&M? Or just tiy the lever forward and forget about it?
If you have a manual valve body (have to shift every gear yourself) you can leave the linkage off, if the trans isn't modified, you have to use the linkage or you may burn up your transmission. Chrysler uses this not just for passing gear, but for correct fluid pressure for all driving. David
Get a older chrysler shop manual, see how the linkage is supposed to be set up and operate. Get a used set up and cut, weld and modify it to work correctly on your car.
Mostly Chrysler used a rod with mechanical linkage,some aftermarket companies may have a cable set up you can install if clearance is a issue.(try Locar) As stated it regulates line pressure and is needed for shift points to be correct. Factory shift points are 12and 20 mph under light acceleration. Your drive ability will be sooooo much better,with out it hooked up you stack shift and are in 3rd way too soon. Good luck Gary
go to the junk yard and get the cable from a overdrive trany and the brackets and leaver from the trany and make it fit the motor get one off from a pickup i had to do it on my boss cross ram setup
The big problem is there isn't any room for the lever and rods. The trans takes up the full tunnel. So that's why I was planning on going the manual valve body route. So is one brand better than an other when it comes to these?
if you have a stock leaver with the sping in it ??? the other one fits in it spot and the cable runs back wards manual valve body i put a kit in my stock one and you have to put couple parts in the trany after i did my i hated it you have to shift it all the time
Transgo shift kits just goes in your valve body but you still have to use the linkage for throttle pressure.
I don't mind shifting it manually, up until last year every car I owned was a manual. So with a Manual valve body I don't have to worry about the kick down lever at all correct? It has a B&M ratchet shifter in it now so I got that end of it covered... I guess Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
no just the shaft sticking up but if you put a kit in your valve body or by one you will still need to put te extra parts in your trany under the valve body also you can check the fluid in park when you put the manual body in it
So what is the reason for a reverse pattern? I thinks it so when you manual shift the gears you bang it back and ends in 3rd and not into neutral correct?
DO NOT use a reverse pattern valve body! They shift extremely hard and are not made for a reliable street car.... The reason for reverse pattern is when changing gears you dont go over 3rd and into N or R on accident in a race situation....which I've done racing a column shift car. I ran a Turbo Action reverse pattern 727 for years in my "street" car....because I wanted a hard shifting deal and I was street racing alot back then .....eventually the trans ate itself. You want lack of maintainance and a reliable, smooth trans? Figure out a way to hook up the pressure linkage....
I have a buddy who swears by pulling the lever forward and tying it off so it creates pressure without the need of a manual valve body. I've never had a 727 in anything so I don't know my way around it. I guess it's going to Be a live and learn situation I wish it was a 3 pedal operation and a 4 speed Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have had the Lokar setup on the 727 in my 440 powered '49 wayfarer for 10 years; never had a problem.
I didn't know about the the reverse manual body but I do know this.....if you listen to your buddy and tie it fwd you will burn up a 727 mighty quick! Get a cable or the correct factory linkage and have a transmission shop install it if you want it to last. Honest experience 383/torqueflite not connected= burnt up no go.
I did a search on lokars web site and didn't find anything guess I'm not typing in the right thing....
I found it never mind.. I will call in the morning and see what the damage is... Almost scared to ask.. Some of there stuff is pricey.. But you get what you pay for...
you can pull the leaver and hold it but you will have to find the right spot so it will shift were you want it, if you hold it to far it will take a long time to shift and if you don't it will shift to fast, when i put it into mine i liked it for awile but it got old you might as well have a stick i put a 440 in my boss 1931 plymouth coupe with a cross ram i got the cable and leaver for a scrap yard for 30.00, came out of a full size dodge pickup with a 518 overdrive you will probley have to make the top bracket anyway
I have had my 904 Kick Down leaver pulled back (after lots of around the block test drives) so it changes through the gears nicely hitting 3rd gear at 38 MPH...it's been like it 7 years, as you turn into a corner around town cruising I just pull it back to 2nd gear and shift into 3rd at around 38 MPH<O</O <O></O> It's done lots of long distance HI way runs & city cruising.<O></O> There was a tech artical showing how to do it in a MoPar magazine some time ago as well.
Wrong. 727's are checked in neutral, not park. I have a 727 w/ manual valve body behind my blown 392 hemi.
So does anybody have any info on pulling the lever forward, and tying it off? If I can save 200 on a valve body I will. If I need to spend money on Lokar, I will. But if I can pull lever forward with a spring, or a bracket I will.
I have dealt with many 727s, Do it right, Get the lokar cable set up. You won't regret it. End of problem.
can you tell us the P/Ns and what exactly they are? pictures? diagrams? what? and, you're still using the "manual" B&M ratchet shifter?
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