Master cylinder located under floor on my '36, start with left rear, right front, right rear then left front? All new lines, can't seem to get all the air out of the system, left with soft peda,l Also, system has 2lb. & 10lb. residual valves with proportioning valve.
You still work the FURTHER EST most wheel away from the master cylinder first . If you have a Disc / drum set up, uh try both rears first , then front . scrubba
To eliminate this problem you need to jack the vehicle up so the M/C is higher than the wheel cylinders you are bleeding. Start by jacking up the rear of the vehicle (always use jack stands when working under vehicle) and bleed the right rear then left rear. Lower vehicle and jack up the front and bleed the right front and then the left front.
I always start with the right rear cylinder. On the front start with the right front. They are the ones that are that are the longest distance from the master cylinder.
Not having a Motor manual handy, I was thinking of in sequence, doing closest first, then next, etc. Tell me why I would be better off in leaving three, (then two, then one) yet-to-be-bled lines, still holding old fluid, in the sequence mentioned earlier?
I've never done that in 50 years of working on cars and have never had a problem. More armature brake work nonsense that serves no purposed. As per sequence, I was taught do the one furthest from the mastercylinder line wise first and work your way around by hitting the next longest and on to the shortest. The reason being is that it bleeds the line with the most air first and you have less air to compress as you go. Make sure you have the brakes adjusted first. Never upon never let the master cylinder run dry when you are bleeding the brakes. Have your helper pump the pedal SLOWLY and HOLD the pedal until you tell them to let up on it. My now 34 year old daughter has helped me bleed brakes since she was 4 and we can do most of them in less than 15 minutes start to finish. If my wife "helps" me it takes over a half hour and she is complaining the whole time. I need to finish my pressure bleeder following this design. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm A guy needs to adapt the design to his own needs but it lets you bleed your brakes by yourself without a hassle.
You are starting a S-storm Yes, you can start where you want, but wait for the slams, they will be a-comin I am amazed at how many people have had so much trouble bleeding brakes on cars over the countless decades. I used to get a few that caused me problems, but then I forgot what I was taught, and now do it my own way, by hand, no self bleeders, no helpers. Been doing it that way for 15 years, and have not found one I can't do by myself.
R- Rear, L- Rear, R-Front L-Front Yet to have an issue. Never jacked up the car front, back or sideways either. And I do not always bench bleed.
Thanks F&J, the arms available here are shorter. Right-rear is along way from the pedal. I haven't read the news (re: procedure) for maybe 40 years... The OP was asking about setting up to bleed, sorry, I was doing a flushing, tomorrow. For his request, getting all the air out is the first order of business. Popcorn? Buckets? What the hay...fire away.
You need to bleed the master first, then the lines. The master being under the floor is harder to bleed, either bench bleed it, use the plastic fittings and hoses and do it on the car or use you fingers and make a mess. If your alone get a glass bottle, fill it up 1/4 way with brake fluid, attach a clear hose to the bleeder, put the other end of the hose into the jar, crack open the bleeder and SLOWLY pump the brakes until you get fluid. Do this with each wheel and then you can bleed the system normally. This way just gets the fluid through the system which is the problem with replacing lines.
all this three times. for me at least. once might work, twice is probably fine but thrice placates my OCD. follow this with checks of the master cylinder level after the first few trips.
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