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Projects new shop size help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34 ford truck, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. Build it to the edge of the property line! I'd love just to have an double car garage.
     
  2. wuga
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 569

    wuga
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I built mine 30' x 40'. It is 9' tall at the walls with roof trusses. The trusses over the first 15 " were designed with a center box going to 12' high by 10' wide. This is where I placed my hoist. The remainder of the shop is at 9' thereby keeping heating and cooling costs at a minimum. I used 5/8" OSB on the walls painted a light color to prevent damage from moving objects and it sure is easy to hang cabinets, tool racks or just about anything else. It was also cheaper then drywall. I used drywall on the ceiling so it could be better painted for maximum light reflection. All walls and ceiling are insulated so I do not have storage in the rafters. The exterior is covered in 3/8" OSB and clad in vinyl siding (really easy to install and reasonable in cost). I have two cars in the shop as well as several toys and lots of storage and never seem to run out of room. Of course, my anal attitude keeps everything organized. I live in a cold climate, so I used 2x6 studs to maximize insulation and every thing is tied together with hurricane ties to compensate for snow load and wind shear. I'm sure living in LA, wind storms must be a concern. Windows can be an option, but are nice for cross flow ventilation and if you have neighbors or a picky wife, they add to the aesthetics. A single 10' door centered to ease access to the hoist and a man door. Have your roof peaked over the door so rain or snow slides to the side and not down on your garage door area. We have a 32x24 garage attached to the front for the daily drivers with a connecting 10' door to one side. Handy as hell. Because winter seems to last forever here, the shop is heated with a Mr. Heater gas furnace and as well the floor is heated. A pure luxury for these old bones. This is my fourth shop and i hope I have applied all the lessons I learned from the mistakes of the others. One other consideration is local building codes. In many areas, shops over a certain size require engineering or special permits. These all add to the overall cost. Good Luck

    Warren
     
  3. coupe33
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 663

    coupe33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mine is two story 28x48 and too small. If I had built it in sections so the bike stuff could be seperated it would have been a plus. The outside work will end soon here and I can see a leantoo off the side to get a work area so the parts can stay on the ground floor. Too much travel time. I would suggest 32x32 plus bike storage.
     
  4. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Here is mine
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG][​IMG]

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    [​IMG]


    As you can see, alot of thought went into the design of the shop. It's 32x30. Ceiling is tall enough for a lift.
    The trusses were actually not much more, the expense of the patio was not much more either.

    Obviously you can tell I live in the city and had tight setbacks.

    If I did it again, and had the room, I would build wider, even if that meant not quite as deep.

    I also have the windows on the south and west up high so if someone broke in it would possibly be more visible from my house.

    The guys who are saying go as big as you can afford are right. If I could have fit a fourth model A plus a chassis and the wagon, I would have!

    I feel you need a good 20 x20 Clear area for a car if you're working on it.

    If you really think your needs won't change, 24x24 should probably work, at times I bet it will be tight though.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  5. jetnow1
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 2,158

    jetnow1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from CT
    1. A-D Truckers

    Have you talked to your zoning official yet- find out what your setback requirements are,
    lot coverage restrictions, etc, Also if there are restrictions on amount of power- water
    and drains, etc. Try to have at least a 1/2 bath and a slop sink if allowed- will be very
    nice to have and will make the better half happier if you can clean up without coming in
    her house. Insulate the place- helps keep noise down as well as make it more comfortable. Make sure you have more power than you think you will need, place outlets
    at least every 4 feet around the work areas, air drops from the compressor also. Try to
    put the compressor out of the work area so the noise does not drive you nuts, and don't forget fire safety and an eye wash station/first aid kit .
     
  6. I might have missed it but, lots of info. on garagejournal.com
     
  7. Overtime
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 47

    Overtime
    Member

    I built a 24x30, with 10ft sides and 2 roll up doors. I only have 1/3 of an acre and i went absolutely as big as i could (which still isnt enough). Its plenty of room for 2 cars, or 1 restoration project, but forget parking anything in there that you want to stay clean. Build a whole separate room for the bikes!
     
  8. afaulk
    Joined: Jul 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,194

    afaulk
    Member

    Hmmm, how big is big enuff? My front building is 40x50, it's full. The back building is 30x64, its full. Two storage containers.....yep, full. I'm thinking that if the budget allows 150x300 should be just right. Remember your stuff will expand to fill any available space. I think that's some kind of natural law. Bigger is better.
     
  9. I put a couple skylights in mine. Free light and limited dark corners.....
     
  10. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Do a scale layout on paper of your cars/bikes on paper. Add the space you want around them and then your tools,storage ect.
    If you use metal on the interior buy odd color overruns as they will all be white on the back side. A full metal interior is loud.
    If you use drywall go for 5/8 type x. With osb I would use a intumescent coating for fire safety.
    As suggested check out the Garage Journal also. Good luck and have fun.
     
  11. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,484

    noboD
    Member

    Amen.
     
  12. Dane
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,351

    Dane
    Member
    from Soquel, CA

    50'x20' is perfect for two cars.
     
  13. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    I'm in construction and if you have the room target standard sizes. Whirlwind for example had stamped drawings and everything for 40x60's and other common sizes. You could pay 15% more for a 35x55 cuz it's not a common size. I'm sure a local building materials shop could point you in the right direction.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  14. rob bob
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 446

    rob bob
    Member
    from Canyon TX

    my dad has worked out of a 30x30 for 24 years its easy to heat an cool but if your wanting a work area an storage you might want to go bigger.
    I just built a 30x30 for myself insulated with 16 foot door for around 10k, I'm very happy with it.
     
  15. I have 26X36 9'4" concrete block walls, steel roof w/insulated steel ceiling. 1-10 full height folding door, 1-8'x7' folding door, 1 36" walk-in door. Out front I have a 24 wide x 15' deep roof over slab with one sidewall to cut down on wind. Off one side I have a 20x24 steel storage shed filled with 36" pallet rack 8' tall down both walls and one row down the center. I have a separate 30X50x12 high storage shed w/100' of pallet rack 12' tall. this shed has a dirt floor, and 2 slide-by doors 12 wide X 12 high.
    If I doubled what I have, I might have some room to work.
    What would I change? No concrete block walls, they are cold and damp and they crack and spread apart with temp change over the years. If I could only have one building, 30X40 would be a minimum, 10' ceilings max up here in the cold country. I didn't need doors taller than standard 7' until I started playing with bigger trucks. (my COE is 8' @ the top of the sleeper)
    I like my horizontal bi-fold doors. (like airplane hanger doors) I built mine, but if purchased not cheap.
    I worry about fire because I do a lot of welding, plasma cutting and grinding, so I would live with the noise of a steel interior rather than OSB, drywall seems to get torn up too easy and not easily washed down for paint work.
    I never use my buildings for finished vehicle storage, but if you plan on that, a partitioned area is very important. Forget just once, (as you grab a grinder to sharpen a lawnmower blade) about your beautiful white car sitting in the other bay, and you'll forever remember the agony of trying to get rusty specks off of white paint.
     
  16. Build as big as you can afford .Mine is 60 x 40 . Have car lift (4 post) , 2 mc lifts , welding table ,4 cars ,4 hds . mc . and still out of room . 5 motor cycles on porch and 2 in a trailer . 12x10 over head door in one end and 8x8 in other . With 4 foot wide entry door ,great for riding mcc in. Good luck with project .
     
  17. nwbhotrod
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,243

    nwbhotrod
    Member
    from wash state

    Mine is 40 x 100 16 foot walls 4 14 foot doors found out wood shop and cars dont mix so i did a seperant wood shop 28x 30
     
  18. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,239

    boutlaw
    Member

    Mine is 28X30 with 12 ft walls, one lift, with walkin attic storage space upstairs. With 3 cars, if they're all inside, one has to be on lift and one under. Believe everyone when they say, "as large as possible". Be sure and plan for a lift (12 ft walls). You''ll need it, especially when you get older....and take a picture before you fill it up.....because you'll never see it that empty again..... Good Luck
     

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