I've been checking out the HA/GR and it seems like a pretty neat class but i'd want to run an automatic. Are the rules for the same for the SDRA the same except for automatics and bigger 6 Cyl. engines? What is the cut off date for engines?
go to Tulsa RacewayPark.com click on rules all engines must have had a distributor which makes the cut off date about 84
When I looked up the rules for ignitions it says ANY! SDRA Rules SDRA 2013 RulesGeneral Information: Vintage Gas Dragster refers to the type of car, not the age of these cars. Vintage Dragsters should be built to resemble drag cars of the late 40’s, early 50’s. They should conform to today’s safety standards. This will mainly impact the roll cage area. This is to satisfy track and insurance requirements. (YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE SAFTEY AND INTEGRITY OF YOUR CAR.) Vintage Gas Dragsters rule changes must be voted on by car owners and passed by 60% of the members. Each car gets one vote. ONLY car owners that are current dues paying members of SDRA can vote. All competition points earned by that car stay with that car. And points totaled at Dec. 31st or sooner for the year. Important - The idea of these cars and rules is that a person working a 40 hour week or is on a limited budget can have and enjoy a race car. No car shall be quicker than 11.35 seconds that will be considered a "break out", causing a loss, If both Break out the closer to 11.35 sec. wins, the other car only gets looser points. . Any questions, please feel free to ask. #1 – ENGINE: Inline and flathead V8’s motors – stock iron blocks. Flatheads motors may run aluminum heads. OHV inline motors must run original type IRON head and IRON block. Porting and polishing allowed. Cars with cooling systems or water tanks must have a radiator cap and over flow catch can. NO: - Overhead Cam motors, Overhead valve V8’s or V6’s. No Superchargers, Turbochargers, or Nitrous oxide. #2 – IGNITIONS: Any #3 - CARBUERATOR/S ONLY: Carbs must have anti siphon device(s), such as velocity stack(s), air cleaner(s), or air scoop(s) in the 40’s and 50’s style. #4 – FUELS: Pump gas or Racing gas only. NO ALCOHOL. #5 – TRANSMISSION / CLUTCHES: AUTOMATICS ALLOWED, STALL CONVERTERS ALLOWED. Must have a WORKING neutral safety switch, and a reverse lockout. Shift light ok. Cars should have an NHRA style shield around the flex plate area. No Trans brakes. Standard transmissions must have a reverse lock out with a neutral safety switch, and run a ¼” 360 degree scatter shield if using stock bell housing. Flywheels and clutch assembly should be new, not rebuilt. Racing components preferred. #6 – FLOORBOARDS: NHRA requires all cars to have a floorboard or belly pan to protect the driver from debris. Floorboards over the transmission area are to be of the following material and go to the rear of the seat; Steel - .024 min. Aluminum - .032min. An SFI certified blanket may be used in place of a floorboard over the transmission. #7 – TIRES / WHEELS: A 6 inch max. rear tire tread width, automotive DOT street tire only. Radial or Bias ply OK. Rear wheels can be any diameter but no wider than 6 inches. Steel wheels recommended. No slicks or cheater slicks of any design allowed. #8 – STARTERS / BATTERIES / TAILLIGHT / BRAKES: Cars must be equipped with an engine mounted starter and be self-starting. Batteries must be securely mounted in a box. Cars must have a MASTER Cut Off switch mounted on the REAR of the car. A solid RED light must be attached to the REAR of the car for night racing. Brakes can be foot and/or hand operated and must be in good working order. No line locks. #9 – DRIVER SAFETY: Driver must wear a full face helmet. Snell 2005 or later, or approved by NHRA, and at least a single layer fire retardant jacket and pants or suit and leather shoes, Neck, arm restraints, gloves and a 5 point safety restraint harness that is SFI approved and up to date is required. Ref. NHRA. #10 – CHASSIS: Mild steel tubing of .125” wall, (a wall thickness greater than .118 will meet NHRA spec.. Stock or modified frame rails, 3” OD x .125” wall round, 1-1/2” x 3” rectangular tube, 3” x 2” x.125” C channel, are acceptable. NO Chrome moly. Stock width rear axle preferred. (52” min track width). Rear end to be solid mounted with a min of 3ea. Grade 8, 3/8” bolts per side. An anti-rotation device should be used. 52" min track width measured center of tire to center of tire. Front axle width 40” min (king pin to king pin). A sprung front axle is recommended, solid mounting is optional. Positive caster recommended. Wheel base; 92” min., 130” max Driver’s seat bottom must be between the axles. NO sling shot style cars. Grade 5 or better bolts and capture washers required on all heims. ALL cars must have a fire wall, side panels, cowl and Floorboard or belly pan, to protect the driver. #11 – ROLLBARS: NO CHROMEMOLY. A 5 point cages can use 1-5/8” x .125 wall tubing; main hoop must be 2” over driver’s helmet, with the front hoop 3” min. in front of the driver’s helmet. A 6 point cages can use 1-1/2” x .125” tubing; main hoop must be 2” over driver’s helmet, with the front hoop 3” in front of the driver’s helmet. See NHRA rule book for cage construction details. #12 – DRIVELINE: If an open drive line is used: a safety loop (2” x ¼” strap) must be installed within 6” of the center line of each U joint. Floor boards or steel drive-shaft cover must separate the driver from the drive shaft. #13 – STEERING: Any box converted to center steer; Vega, Corvair, etc., SPE or the like. No excessive play. Grade 8 bolts or better required and capture washers. #14 – POINTS: 10 For each round won – loser gets 5 2 - For best reaction time each event, eliminations only. In the event of double red lights the 1st red light is the loser. In the event of a red light and a breakout (quicker than 11.35 seconds). The red light is the loser. In the event of a legal run and a breakout run the breakout is the loser. First round pairing by draw. ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE CONTACT: DAVID BRIDGEWATER, President, (918) 706-6302, [email protected] This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. JOE HAMBY, Sec. (918) 289-3268, [email protected] This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Events TRP Live TV Channel Blog Forum Contact Us Marketing & Partnership Opportunities Live Timing Race Photos Sitemap Copyright © 2012 http://www.tulsaracewaypark.com • 3101 North Garnett Tulsa, OK 74116 • Tulsa Website Design By: Quantus Creative <IMG id=lbImage class=grey>
These words are not in those rules anywhere:Fuel Pump, Oil Pump, Timing Chain, Distributor. Please don't read between the lines. Those newer motors: some have eliminated themselves because they have aluminum heads and blocks. The same with foreign motors. I really don't care if you use a crank trigger or cam trigger. The reason for newer carburetors, old ones wear out. Use any and many, if you want.
I think that the #2 Rule needs to be clarified to say point type distributor or electronic conversion of one. As far as I can see when the #2 rule shows the word "any" I would think that I can use what ever I want and meet the letter of the rules. Crank Trigger / MSD boxes / Mags / HEI are not what this class was built around. This type of change "no matter how small" is how it all starts. Next it will be transbrake, Alcohol, Aluminum heads. A carb is a carb, but a mag, ect ain't no distributor. Just my two cents Have at it
Old28, we have made the rules easy to build one, we don't want to check your dist, coil, carb, tranny brake, etc. Tranny brakes don't work with these tires, they shock the rear and break loose the tires.
RoadRunner5 -- I'm not going to get into a pissing war on something that matters little to me. I just think you missed the point, if it was a little clearer people would not have to ask. After over 40 years running nothing but front motor dragsters and altered and running 13.00 - 6.97, I think I have a real good feel for how transbrakes operate and the affect they have on rear tires. At my age (69) I don't think I will be making any trips to Tulsa and because we don't have the luxury of running only SDRA cars in eliminations I can see use on the West Coast running some 7-8" Pie Crust slicks in the future while running open/wheel class in eliminations. I'm done ranting so now lets move on to something that will help build more of these cars.
I am going to add on a bit old28. We have to bracket race our cars. My partner has a set of 9x26 slicks with one race on them. So we will be running them. I am also considering running E85 because it is cheaper than pump gas and not real hard to convert. I know the pureist do not like this but I would be running 10% ethanol with pump gas out here anyways.
Believe it or not, I did a search here and I can't find out what SDRA stands for. While the internet has zillions of interesting responses, from the Scale Drag Racing Association to the South Dakota Retailers Association, the best result I get is for the Southern Drag Racing Association. That it? Gary
Rules are what they are.If a person wants to race in a certain class, they follow the rules. In this class the great equalizer is the spec tire. No amount of horsepower is going to work if you can`t get the car to hookup. I think the left coast should follow the rules to the letter so the midwest guys can`t gripe when we start being competitive. So how about a shootout senior drag racing assoc.
One time just after this thing got started in 2005, we were in the staging lane and the staging starter came over to us and said "you guys are going right after the Jr Dragsters". You know the ones with radical lawn mower motors. So Don Alexander said "well if they are Jr Dragsters then ours are Senior Dragsters". So that kind of started the Tulsa thing. Old28 you are not really older than our group is. We wanted rules that don't have protests. If someone comes up with a magnito, then fine, I want to see it, show it off. Our rules have evolved a little, but nothing that is noticable from the stands. We have only changed things to make it easier to build. We talked about a "spec" tire. But some think that a radial is safer and some think that a coker is better. We don't want someone running a tire that they are not happy with. We talked about slicks, but that was voted down. With a slant six, I have ran a 7.21 in the 1/8 mile, so we don't think that we need them. We think that we would break things with slicks. We have two members that ran top fuel in the 70's. Several are good friends with Benny (The Wizard) Ozburn. The past is also here in Tulsa. Joe Hamby, Sec. SDRA V/GD (vintage gas dragster)
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