home made tools and equipment...

That vacuum attachment is a great idea. I would like to see how you mounted the vacuum pick up at the lathe head.

 

Y'all are absolute geniouses.

Here's my humble submission; a rolling body dolly. It's designed to accommodate a 59 Chevy panel but I tried to make it adjustable for future projects.




weld nuts to hold retaining bolts in place



weld nuts secured for welding



finished product





(not sure if I posted that pics correctly, please let me know if they could be presented better)

 

More on this please! Been wanting one myself. Great work.

 

Gold03, just make mess then vacuun!



Salf100, I made the small one, copied the larger. Ron Fournier showed how to make one in the Metalcrafter's News when he was publishing it back in the early 90's being smaller I used solid rod.

 

Me to,ditto

 

heres what i came up with to clean my lathe, milling machine, drill press and i also use it on engines and whatever else, the large hose came with another 5hp shop vac that has long sence died, the end is what used to hold the small hose on this vac when it was new, i just duct taped it on and now any thing that can go in the small end will not get stuck in the larger hose.

 

Budd,
what type of filter does your shopvac use? my blue sears is pleated paper it will fail quickly if it tears, and the tornado vac I have is cloth material, was such a pain in the ass to clean swarfs imbedded in the material, that one can be washed.

 

I am wondering if wrapping the filter with window screen - aluminum or steel, not nylon - would restrict flow to a noticeable point?

 

the filter is just a piece of foam, not much sticks to it because the airflow takes a sharp turn after in enters the vac, if i use the vac for dusty stuff i have a cloth filter that goes over the foam held on with a rubber band

 

I would like to know more about your fender wheels. I could really use a set of those!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Nothing hi tech but here's my anvil I built from some scrap.. Rail road iron that was once living out its days as a fence post, a piece of c channel and a slab of 3/4" plate for the top! Turned out pretty good after a few hours of grinding sanding and polishing!

 

that is nice ^^^^^^^^^^
good job

 

niceguyede, I post something in the old tool thread, I have some ads and stuff.
Low350 nice job on the anvil!

 

i had a fixed stud on the car and id managed to cross thread a nut onto it

not having any thread savers or anything i found a matching and cut it in half with a hacksaw , then place the 2 peices of nut on the good lower part of the stud and vice grip em together

now wind the nut up n down to clean up the threads

worked like a charm

 

subscribed

im digging this thread ....

 

Thanks for the new to me tip. I like how it allows coming back straight on good threads towards the dinged up end.

I've made thread chasers in larger sizes before by filing an angled slot in a nut, bolt, or old spark plug to serve as a flute, gives small burrs and chips a place to go without jamming everything up. Won't work as fast or last like a real chaser, die, or tap, but they have bailed me out more than once when the real stuff wasn't handy.

Ed

 

nice job on gear drive engine stand way back on page 34 that Dawford posted, i just built one using your plans, it works great and i love it, i got the engine stand on sale for $48 and the worm winch for $21 and already had the roller chain and sprockets so for couple hours work i have a nice gear drive engine stand thats sturdier than my old one and $161 cheaper than Jegs gear drive stand. Thanks for sharing yours Dawford !!

 

were you with british leyland

 

If you go to the K&N Filter site, look up Filter Wraps, they list them by dimension. Pick one that goes over your pleated filter. If you give the vac a good thump between uses a lot of stuff falls off. Really makes the filter last longer, and works better than the foam.

 

Made this little tool to finish out the ends of beads for flat panels such as floors or whatever. Did a couple of panels in 18 gauge to show the difference it makes in the looks and how it will flatten the panel back out. Both were pre stretched with the planishing hammer prior to rolling the bead. I made this tool out of Maxell and just flame hardened it to see if this would work. This particular one is 3/4" wide, but you could make any size to match your dies. You just straddle the bead with it lined up right near the end and with it laying flat on the table, one good whack with a big brass hammer sets the end of the bead. I also kicked it up on an angle in my mill on one side and that will allow you to make a more tapered end to the bead if thats what you are after.

 

^^^^ very simple........Very Well done!

 

nicely done....looks great

 

So simple and nicely done.

 

Very cool. Why the hole through it?

 

I'm gueaing its the easiest way to make a radius is with a drill (end mill in this case) , correct?

and for alignment purposes.

 

to see if it's aligned? great tool. now it looks stamped and not rolled.not that there's any thing wrong with that!

 

Thanks. Yeah, I used an end mill and the through hole is actually to align it on your bead. I left it connected on the open end to keep it from trying to spread out when you strike it. I just clearanced that area to clear the height of the bead. It looks like it needs a little tweaking to line up perfectly, but the dies I used to roll the 3/4 wide bead were ones I crudely made in my old manual lathe, and I missed the width by a little. I thought about making up a set for all the popular bead sizes and trying to sell them as a kit, but most guys would probably be like me and just make their own. Thanks for the compliments though.

 

Hey Ron, you could also make one up with the end milled to a V point so that the bead had a spear point end

 

cool idea rodl

 

I finally got a chance to try this in action on my current driver. It worked okay on one side on the top and bottom, but the force seems to chew the bolt threads - I ended up using a pickle fork on the 4th joint. Plus the whole bolt likes to spin, probably could grease a washer in the stack but I just used a wrench to hold the square part of the cap bolt.

Bolts are cheap, though, so if you need to take one apart and think you might re-use it (and don't want to wreck the boot) it will do the job.