Projects 36-taildragger.....Made in Sweden

Allways doing some good metal work, keep it up...

 

Here´s the door post piece.

Again I used the wrench to brake the flange and the same procedure with hammer and dolly to make it straight.


Drilled an cut a slot for the hinge.


Welded in and pillar is done.

 

Thanks longgoner.Whithout your pics I couldn´t have done this.

Thanks hotrodmano.Nice meting you and you are very welcome for a visit

Thanks ESGEE.

 

Looking good mate.


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Wow!!!!

 

Great work Kenneth, nice detailed post on how you go about fabricating the parts.
Couple of things.
Firstly as a word of warning to anyone trying there hand at this, I have always been told since the day I started work that you should never hit two hammers together as they will splinter and send out shards of metal. I have never done it but have witnessed a hammer splintering and doing just that.
Safety goggles are a pretty good idea .

Secondly I need a pullmax

Paul

 

Looks really good!
I guess that after you're done,your car could be better than it was from the factory.
Keep it up!

 

What you need is a brass, lead, plastic, wood, or other "dead blow" type hammer to hit the hard steel hammer with.

I've done what he's doing by using both a brass hammer, and one of my smaller dead blows (polyurethane lead shot filled 2lber).

You can also pad the head of one of your hard hammers with a bit of wood to accomplish the same thing.

My rule in the shop is always that you never use something hard to hit something hard. Soft on hard, hard on soft, etc.

Another thing I would suggest to the OP (not that he needs any help from me at all) is that he might find that shrinking those flanges flat would go faster if he were to use a smoothly finished block of hardwood for backup instead of that hardened dolly (or conversely, use a wood hammer on the steel dolly).

It's the hard/soft thing again.

When shaping metal, hard on hard stretches, hard on soft doesn't (or at least not nearly as much).

You can prove it to yourself easily just by making a flange on a flat piece of metal and them taking a hammer and dolly and working the outside edge of the flange. It will stretch and the panel will pick up a nice curve. I was very surprised how quickly it happened the first time I tried it.

You're obviously very good at what you do, so switching to a softer hammer/backup won't change the quality of your work, but it might make it go faster.

And I too very much wish to have a Pullmax machine. One day . . .

 

DAM! you have been busy. Looking good as usual.

 

Thanks.

Thanks

Sorry I wasn´t clear enough. Ofcourse I´m using a hard plastic hammer when hitting the other one.

Thanks Finnrodder.

I know what you meaning with hard on hard but in this case the flanges was only 1/2" wide and it depends on how hard you hit with the hammer.I only tucking the warps very gentle to work them in,took me about 5 minutes.But I´m very glad you are sharing you´r knowledge,allways open to learning something new.When you say you know and can do everything you are probably 6 feet under.

After the tig welder the pullmax is the best machine I´ve bought.Over here they are pretty cheap.Only paid $600 with a lot of tools and dies included but over all you can have one for a reasonable amount of money.I know there is US people buying them here and shipping them home.

Thanks Kipp.Some days you are in a flow and eveything just falls in place and other days you are banging your head and nothing hapends.Guess you know what I mean.

 

Kenneth, I've been following your thread with great interest. I know next to nothing about metal work, but I can recognize work done properly when I see it, and can say with confidence that you are certainly a master talent at this. Fascinating! You have me enthralled.. Thank you!

-Dave

 

Thanks a lot Dave.I´m feeling very humble about all your kind words on here.Just a glad amateur with the priviledge of doing what I love most.Learning by doing and watching how other guys are doing things is the best education I think.Just by watching other build threads on here have learned me a lot.

Thanks Kenneth.

 

Just read through your build thread and love the work you do. I've also been following farmer12's build thread (fellow countryman?) and you guys are doing awesome work there across the pond.

 

Thanks Hogman. No we are not from same country but not very far from eachother neither.I´m following his thread too and I agree with you , it´s awesome.

 

Today I was fixing the cowl side and bottom.Cut out all the rot in bottom.The rotten piece left is covered by the patch panel later.


Made this part for the bottom.


Then it was time for the patch panel.They are delivered flat but the cowl is not so I shrinked it in the back a little.



Then it was time for a trip in the pullmax to get a nice curve matching the cowl side.



Here it is tucked in place.


All welded up. When I am welding such body panels I´m using hammer welding method meaning I weld about 1" to 1 1/2" and hammer n dolly the weld directly while its warm and working it untill it´s cold enough to touch.Then I move forward 3 to 4" and repeat.By this method I feel that I have full control over the warping as I stretching it when it´s warm and it´s minimizes hammer n dolly afterwards.This is a method I learned from my friend Wolf ( Tinwolf here on Hamb ) .I know that true hammer welding should be gas welded but I am using the tig and it works out really fine for me.


Grinded and a few passes with the body file and it´s done.

 

Welded in the part of cowl reinforcement I cut out earlier.


Then I made a new piece for the cowl foot and drilled it for pluggwelding.


Painted with some weld thru zink primer before I welded it in and now it´s there grinded and smothed and I think I´m done here finally.

 

Very cool build! You´ve really got some skills!

 

Indeed; once again, very nice work!

 

Thanks guys.Much appreciated.

 

Very nicely done!!

 

Enjoying the build can you show a picture of the dies you used in the pullmax to get the slight crown thanks.

 

Thanks Johnny.

Here´s for you carbuilder.One of the dies is concave and the other one is convex.Have two different sizes and different dome for small or big radius on the crowning. Used the big ones on the cowl piece.

 

Thanks for the die pictures

 

Have some new updates.Spent last week fabricating new subrail for the quarter panel. Broked a plate around a flatbar to get the u-shape.



Then I cut a slot in middle of the ridge and flattend it with a hammer and shaped it to flow with the U.


At the other end I cut out a piece as pictured.


After that I put it in the stretcher to get a radius along with the frame kick-up and made a new piece to fill up the gap. Flattened the back end of the U the same way as in front



Saved what I could from the old one and repaird with a new piece.


Welded together and ready to be put in.

 

Here it is mounted in the car.

Broked a L-shaped piece for extension of the subrail and used the schrinker / stretcher to make it curve over the kick-up. Goes all the way back to the tail pan.

 

So now it´s time for the b-post.Draw up a plate like this.


Then sime time in the Pullmax


After some work and hammer n dolly it looks like this


Made another piece as pictuered.Broked an U and welded on the angled piece.


Same treatment in the Pullmax and it looks like this


Punched some holes in the first one for pluggwelding and joined the two parts together.Now I have a new post.




After grinding the welds I welded it in to the car




Here I have made a new pillar foot.


Welded up and done.

 

Inspirational Kenneth!

-Dave

 

loving the detailed pictures Kenneth ..... tin bending supreme

 

Thanks guys.Hope the pics can be to some help for some others on here.

 

Awesome thread