Good Day all. I have a question. I installed a 283 into my 65 GMC. The motor had been on an engine stand for about 20 years in my dads garage. It is in the truck and is getting fuel and spark. The engine is belching out some exhaust., but is is just hanging on the line of starting, it wont start. Am I missing something? I do know that the lead from the S connection on the starter solenoid is not connected to anything. The engine turns over and everything though. Is this keeping it form starting? I hope someone can help me out. Thanks, Mark
the s lead gives the coil straight 12 v instead of the 6 v that will keep it happy while running for time . if its hitting and running then no need for it you could hook it up and see if it does need the extra umph to help ignite the rich mixture but I doubt it would do anything as once the key is released its back to 6 v . try setting the distributor to tdc and see if that will get it popping . moat often the dist is retarded or advanced too much to fire it up after time , also what color spark is it ? the kernel must be dark blue and make a snap .yellow will not cut it ( only for mustard ) if its points check the setting on them also /
Everything is original and ran when it was pulled form the late 60s Chevy Truck. No changes have been made. I turn the key and it starts and sounds like it is going to run because it is firing. I release the key and it dies. I am getting the smoky exhaust I expect since it has been sitting so long. That is what is puzzling me. I have fuel and spark. IT just will not complete the process by starting after I release the key. Could it be running too rich or lean? It was installed as a high school auto shop project and the instructor had them rebuild the carb. Maybe it needs and initial adjustment on the 2 BBL carb? To do that I am not sure what a jumping off point would be for the two air/fuel adjustment screws.
Stimpy has a good starting point, don't assume timing is correct. Check to make sure or have someone who knows what he's doing check. You're close to starting, hang in there.
You want the ignition switch start wire on the "S" terminal. S for start You want the "I" terminal to go to the + side of the coil. I for ignition. To start you need FAST. Fuel , air, spark, timing. If it still won't start do a compression test.
OK. I had my son hit the key. I advanced the Dist a bit and it backfired and the starter struggled turning the engine. I Retarded the Dist and the starter turned the engine easier and it seems like it wants to run longer now. It just wont stay running. It is right there. Any further suggestions? Should I find TDc now that the Dist is closer to what it should be at and hit it with a Timing light?
Does that mean I should swap the wires on the small posts? I retarded the Dist and it is much better but wont continue running. It starts but fades away and quits running. Thi is without touching the starter wires as suggested. QUOTE=txturbo;9153322]if it starts and then dies when you release the key...then you have the wires wrong on the starter.[/QUOTE]
Try a jumper wire from + battery terminal to the + terminal of the coil. If it then starts and continues to run you have a wiring issue or maybe a bad Ign. switch.
Hell yes JohnEvans. It worked. I ran a wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil. The engine started right up. I shut the key off and it kept running. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to shut off. What does that part mean? Is there a wire form the ignition not hooked up? Is that the wire form the S terminal on the starter coil? It is not hooked up. Should it be hooked to the positive terminal on the coil?
OK. I found the stray wire thanks for everyones help. The wire form the starter coil that was disconnect was put on the + terminal of the Dist coil. It is all better. Now I have to find out why the Clutch will not disengage. I hope that the kids did not put the clutch disc in backwars.
OK now the clutch issue. First thing check the Z bar for cracks where each arm is attached ,breakage there will cause your prob. by reducing the movment to the release fork. Check for excessive free play at the bearing to clutch fingers.