E-Z Wiring Harness cutting out

Thought I'd post this in case anyone else had a similar problem. I installed an E-Z kit in my '35 several years ago. Last year I started getting an intermittent "cutting out" of the ignition, while trying to start and the worst of times, pulling away on an on ramp-car just died. I loosened the bolts holding the fuse panel on and it went away, for awhile. Left it alone and was OK, then started up again this year. Wiggled the fuse panel and it would be OK, then felt very hot wires. I knew it wasn't a short. Finally called EZ tech, told him ignition and gauges cut out, but lights still worked. He suggested re-crimping the factory crimp on the wire to ignition switch. Since I couldn't get anything in to reach the crimp and I was going to remove the A/C system, I pulled the dash, and front seat, wrestled with my harness, then took about 20 minutes and a tiny screwdriver to bend the prongs on the 4 fuse connections (probably a real tool for that to do it quicker) and finally removed the 4 wire brass "bar" out the rear of the panel. The main feed from the solenoid connects to this with crimped connetions to the ign. sw, the light sw and one other. The wire to the ignition sw was pushed a bit too far into the crimp and the insulation was keeping the wire from making complete contact with the brass bar. The wires were actually a bit discolored from the arcing and heat-enough to melt a bit of the fuse panel. Anyway, cut, stripped and recrimped, then added a drop of solder to each connection (after cleaning). All is good now (so far). Total PIA on my back-not getting any younger.
Good time to remove the Hot Rod Air heat/ac system. Just caused overheating problems for the flattie/original radiator. That will be in the parts for sale system shortly.
RB

 

Had the same problem. Mine was with the headlights and fan circuits. Headlights would only go out at the worst times on the darkest roads. I found the connectors that the fuses pushed into were loose and overheating and loosing contact. So bad that it was melting the fuses but not blowing them. Shows heat but not overcurret.

 

I use wiring harnesses out of 70s or 80s donor vehicles. It's a complete pain to tag, remove, modify and the install into my latest hot rod.
I have to inspect connections, insulation, fusebox conections for obvious bad connections.
However, I've never had to go in and recrimp or solder wires at fuseboxes, etc.
The reason you bought a new harness was so you don't have problems for a long time.
This EZ stuff sounds like junk.

 

My work involves a fair amount of wire and cable assembly manufacturing. The process, worker skills, tools, controls etc. required to perform consistent reliable crimps and splices is highly specialized.

You are fortunate that there was not more significant damage.

 

Smog Guy,
Not junk at all, a good system at a reasonable price that had a glitch. Your process of using a donor vehicle sounds more dyi, but I was happier with the convenience and labeled wires.
Roadsir, you are correct. When I touched a very hot wire behind the panel, I knew someone was watching out for me. I've also installed a "hidden" switch that will disconnect the E-system at the battery (Autowire) for emergencies battery isolation and antitheft.

 

Sounds like the EZ harness is well thought out, but their quality control needs improving. If you have to inspect each crimp, then why not make your own harness. At least you would know how well the crimps are done. Soldering is good insurance against intermittents.

 

This is actually a common issue with EZ-wire harnesses, I've read about it before. The crimping is poor at the fuse block and should either be redone, or soldered up, when it goes in the car.

If I had to go with a factory harness, I'd use something like 80s Chevy truck or van simply because they're modular and stuff like power windows and locks is easy to add on. They're not too hard to pull usually either.

 

Gee Iv'e never had a problem with ez-wire Iv'e installed about 20 of them for my customers. I even have one in my own ride. did you perhaps pull on the harness to hard as you installed it.

 

I'll have to check the pic and pay for that vintage truck-usually lots of them in Mt. Airy Crazy Ray's.
As far as install, no, no undue tension on the panel leads. One of my car viewing beef's is a fine looking vehicle with dangling, limited thought wiring installs. Probably spent a week routing wires to keep concealed. But the panel and immediate wire leads were in place and fastened first with no tension on them. Used lots of rubber coated clamps and zip ties, too. I'd consider using them again on the coupster, but might look at the Rebel kits also.

 

I have had no problems with my E-Z harness after 5 years.

 

ez wire harnesses here chevy is over 12 yrs and 50,000 miles no problem. it actually was enjoyable installing and learned color coding is as important as labeling every 6 inches

 

The wire EZ uses won't burn its insulation. I have demonstrated this with scrap pieces to customer that I have installed these for by holding it into a propane torch flame. It will get extremely hot and I am sure ruins the wire but it won't catch fire.

 

Holy crap man, it's like you were in my car the other night! My EZ wire kit was doing the EXACT SAME THING. Mine is older, probably installed in 2004 or 2005. It was been doing this weird thing lately where it will intermittently cut out for no reason. The ignition switch and head light switch are relatively new, maybe 3-4 years old. It will just cause the car to stumble as I'm driving, since it kills the ignition and the gauges, and maybe my fuel pump too. Generally if I'm driving, it just causes the hiccup, but if I'm idling at a light, the car just shuts off and needs to be restarted. Generally it will restart immediately, but Monday night it killed power for a longer period of time and it killed the power to my starter as well. The headlights stay on no matter what and are unaffected.

This thread has been way helpful. I'll be searching for the issue in the panel. Thanks so much.

 

I have installed 3 EZ wire harnesses. Have had no problems .

 

I took a E-Z wiring out of a 34 Chevy because the owner had been having the exact same problem,,it was cheaper for him to let me replace it with a American Autowire kit. HRP

 

I have EZ Wiring in 10 of my 16 cars and have installed about another 15 in other cars. Never had any problems. The best kit on the market for the price and very user friendly. Just my opinion.

 

I wire a lot and I'll tell you that I won't use a prewired fuse box with all the leads coming out of it just because they're harder to deal with. I use American autowire for several reasons, the chief reason is I can put the fuse box anywhere I like and wire from the switch or end use back to the fuse box. If I don't want a particular circuit, I can just leave it out, something you can't do with cheaper kits.
This makes for nice tight looms, solid connections at the fuse block, overall, a much more professional look. Besides, they are COMPLETE kits with everything you could possibly need, nothing left out. Everybody has their preferences, for me, cost is not one of them.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
Getting ready to install one.

 

I like the American auto wire kits. Very high quality.

I always questioned the quality of those ez wire kits being priced how they are

 

IIRC it was more of a problem on older kits and they've changed or improved them since then. I'm going from memory but I'd bet if someone wanted to play around and search they'd get some old threads about it that would give more details.

 

57Joe,
Follow the power in from the solenoid. The wire next to it goes to the ignition switch, that was my issue spot. Let us know how it turns out. Is there a specific tool that slips in from the front to "unlock" the fuse connections?
RB

 

Not an easy wire box ...
But I just had one that made me pull my hair out.
The problem was in the fuse box and the fused side of the circuit had a bad socket. The fuse was good but causing intermittently disruptive activity.
Some yo yo bent the crap out of the fuse socket.

 

RB,

I got under there tonight and started investigating. This car needs to be at the Rumblers show Friday afternoon, so I need to figure this out pronto.

The car died on me in traffic the other night. I was sitting idling at a red light and it just shut off. Unlike how it sometimes has hiccuped in the past and immediately restarted, this time it was clearly dead and would not crank to restart. Then after about 2 minutes of poking around and getting the "Jersey Salute" from passing motorists, it restarted and proceeded without issue the rest of the way home.

So here's what happens:
-Headlights always stay on. They're unaffected by the issue.
-Power to the coil gets cut off.
-Power to the fuel pump gets cut off.
-Power to the gauges gets cut off.
-No fuses are blown.
-There are no "smoking guns" as far as melted fuses, obvious arcs, or the like.

When the car was stalled in traffic, it also refused to crank. That tells me that there is no power to the ignition switch. Therefore, if power is cut to the ignition switch, it would also kill power to the coil and anything that is key hot. Gauges and fuel pump included, right? Does this sound right?

I followed the battery power in from the engine compartment, and the car still has headlights and tail lights even when it stalls, so the panel itself should still have power since the headlight switch is powered from the panel.

How did you get the crimps out of the panel? How has your car been behaving since you recrimped and soldered the connection?

Thanks for the help guys

 

With all the fuse box problems mentioned, is there a Cadillac of Fuse Boxes out there that should be the base unit of all auto wiring jobs? Photos and part numbers would be helpful. Bob

 

Check your ignition switch. New aftermarket switches are usually made in China and have poor springs and contacts. If you have a stock switch it could be worn out. Jim (55willys)

 

Bob,

I'm not going to throw EZ wire under the bus here. This is not a new install. My panel has been in the car for probably 8 years and performed flawlessly over 50K+ miles. Shit happens. I wouldn't be willing to spend the $500 extra for a Ron Francis kit if the quality was marginally better. This might be a good thread to put some folks on notice that some soldering might be in order prior to install.

 

Word - I too am a big fan of American Autowire and would not use anything else regardless of price....

 

I also wire every car that go's through our shop and I also prefer to be able to wire to the panel. My favorite fuse panel is a Centech, it includes a horn relay, turn flasher, hazard flasher, and is 4"x7"x1". It makes a very clean install. Jim (55willys)