Projects finally got my long desired 34 3 window

A shop I used to hang out at built body kits for tuner cars years ago. They used this product if I remember correctly:
http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/304
Always worked for us when holding fiberglass parts to the stock metal. It was easier to cut the glass than break the bond.

 

Moving so fast on this build it will be over soon,diggin it lots. You stiil doing the belly Tank ? JW

 

Jealous as hell here. Awesome find.

 

Subscribed.

Cool CVO Deuce, too!
(I ride a FLTRSE3)

 

I drew up some inner door supports and door jam supports. I put 4 adjustable weld nuts inside so I have adjustment in all directions. I glued the ones in the door jams inside the body, going to start building the inner structure tonight . Then we will be ready to assemble doors and hang them.. I could use some close up pics if real hinge setups for reference .


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Are those door jams not recessed for hinges. Anyway, get your doors right and the rest is simple. Allow some extra plate to your door structure, to screw the door check straps to.
All the best.

 

They are now recessed. I left the glad behind them to bolt my inner structure while the glue dried to hold them in...
I have the hinges where they need to be... These doors are a pain in the ass.. Very complicated to make them 100% right. Now I see why guys spend alot of extra money on these kit cars that come pre assembled


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Anyone have a good way to glue these panels together? I have tried everything every body shop has told me they would use and nothing is working ... Clamped t for a few hours and as soon as you take the clamps off it just pops apart... I cannot go any further on this car until then


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Gotta grind the 'glass so it's raw, not the smooth skin...

 

Did that.... Not sure what the deal is... I'm just taking em to a body shop so they can fuse em together . They can do it cheaper than me buying the fuser and the gun to spread it on


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If you decide to try it yourself I may have the gun for the product I posted earlier and I'll ship it to ya if u ship it back once yur done...

 

This is why the HAMB is awesome...

 

You'll need a high density glue powder, mixed with polyester resin. Make sure you mix enough to do entire edging. Spread liberally, only on the 1 edge but you'll need to be quick. Goes off fast. Hold the 2 panels together with duck tape, every 3"s. You can put these on the outer skin before mixing glue. Once panels are held together,wipe any excess into gaps if any, and rag off the rest.
Good luck

 

Oh, and I'd advise hanging the doors before gluing outer skin. Bloody ugly with body lines not meeting. I guess you could screw a few spots, unscrew, glue and rescrew.

 

Are you putting a top hinge on the doors? Looks good , what you have done so far. What maker of hinges are you working with? I wish you luck cause I have the same thing to do, and hope the best on the doors for you.

 

thanks man,
im gonna jsut have my budy at reiser automotive do it. hes a really expert with this stuff and will do it for next to nothing. i really appreciate the offer

 

yea i figured i would screw em together in four spots and let the real body guys glue em and clamp them.

no im only putting the bottom two. the geometry with the top hindge on makes the alignment of the hinges look terrible and stick out way to far.. they are speedway hinges and i know alot of guys dont like them, but i smoothed the casting out with die grinder and an 80 grit pad. they are nice ant tight and now they look good.

 

Looking good my friend glad you got your dream car.

 

i need some build advice.. were building this car to drive to bonneville.. i need some drivetrain advice.. flathead or SBC?? do i adapt a sbc to the factory trans or put a muncie in it... im planning on a quick change rear.. so i can run open or closed drive.

i know, im not a fan of the SBC either.. not at all really... but its a 2000 mile trip one way.. plus all the sight seeing. so were talking 5000 mile trip in a little over a week. i see the rolling bones run a few flatheads... but they aloso have a pile of $$ in them. which i would do, but thats not in my budget.

my thoughts were this: mild SBC, all old finned vavlecovers and such, old syle ignition or even a mag, center dump manifolds, adapt a 12v generator to it...three strombergs... jsut make it as 50's style as much as possible. adapt it to the factor trans and torque tube, new ram clutch, and throw in a winters rear.. that would make it driveable and relaible for that kind of mileage.. its weither that or throw a muncie in it also and run an open drive quick change..
go easy on me.... think of it as a budget reliability thing...

 

Love'em or hate'em you can't beat the availability, practicality, and dependability of a SBC. You break down in Wyoming in a flathead, you are more than likely SOL. You break down with a SBC, more than likely you can get what you need at a local auto parts store. Plus unless you are spenidng major $$$, your stock 250 hp SBC, will run circles around just about any flatty.

Something to consider too is running an S10 5 speed with either your SBC or flatty (there are plenty of adapters on the market). Here again, you could always find one, they are relatively inexpensive, fairly durable as long as your not throwing major HP/TQ at it and give you a nice low first gear with a great overdrive in 5th.

My vote is SBC, especially if you need it for reliability and durability AND you already have a badass flatty powered coupe. Tell the haters to go to hell!

 

^^^^^ what he said. I am shopping for a drive train for another project right now. On craigslist there are several 305 engine/trans in Austin for less than $1k that you can see running.

I love a flattie, but sometimes it just comes down to $$$.

 

In a Brian Darwas film ( pretty good, actually) he follows the Rolling Bones team from NY to Bonneville. The flatty breaks down a couple of times. It happens to the best of them. Other than a couple of starters, they had a trailer full of parts and a support team and got going OK.

At least in the film, the SBC did not break.

Like you, I'm not a huge SBC fan but I've got one. It runs & runs. For this project, it might be the way to go.

 

brian darwas film? where can i see this at,.?

 

Great find, Both will be Kool rods, Theres nothing wrong w/ a glass car, steel is hard to find, very pricey and the repops are pretty pricey also. Follow your own lead and build what you want , can afford and enjoy it. I notice you are younger, kool to have the next generation come into the car hobby. Best Wishes and Good Luck w/ projects. John

 

http://www.atomichotrods.com/Atomic_Hot_Rods/Road_to_Bonneville_(DVD).html

His movies are awesome. You should get a 10% Alliance discount too.

 

Musta slept in on this one, hadn't seen the thread at all.
Mighty fine plan, it's laid out well and I am, as most here are, extremely happy for you!

 

Cool car! For what you are doing SBC is a better bet.

Those guys to trailers with parts around so they do not have a bad experience.

If you get out there and back with a SBC and few/no problems that will be a ton more fun vs. Flathead and spending your week here in Indy waiting for parts to arrive.

 

i decided to go with the SBC.. someday if i ever come across a steel body for the car, ill flathead it.. but for a glass driver. sbc it is.. i found a nice built 327 from a friend. so im picking that up this weekend... im gonna hook it to the stock trans and torque tube. i seen a few other guys do that any they didnt have any trouble with it.. now im sure it wouldnt hold up to hole shots and burnouts. but i wont do that.. atleast not in this car.. that way i can order an adapter and just bolt it in place with the clutch pedals and shifter all in the proper location... the goal is to get it to bonneville next year of 2015 at the latest. so i gotta get moving on it.. still working on the doors. getting the inner structure fabed up for them and also the seat back tied into the doro jams. lots of fun with square tubing. hope it all works good,

 

good plan

 

nothing wrong with glass. They make cool hot rods that you can drive and enjoy.