Removing model A firewall

Hey guys so I am trying to remove my Model A's fire wall so I can recess it so my engine will fit in there nicely. I am having a heck of a time tryin to remove it, so far I have drilled out all the hold screw/rivet heads that I could find. The top is free but the sides are stuck in there, its almost like they have been clued in. Does any one have any good ideas on how to get it out in one piece? I have searched through the forum but was un-able to find what I need.

Thanks in advance.

 

It is spot welded to the cowl panels. You can try to carefully sawsall them out or drill them out and weld the holes up later.

 

I had something really similar happen when working on my 29 rpu.I found small welds on hidden spots after,like you,I drilled out all rivet heads.I would suggest getting in there with a small flat screwdriver and try to gently pry to find out if you have said welds.

 

I recomend drilling the spot welds out, then go back and plug weld them back in. easy on the heat. thats what I did on my buddy's r.p.u.

 

Hit the flange with some 80Grit on a block lightly and the spot welds will appear.

 

Hey thanks guys! they must be pretty hard to see becuase I never saw any. But I will go out there and see what I can do. There is a primer on the body so that might be hiding the spot welds.

 

Hey thanks guys, so I sanded away the primer paint and I was able to see the welds. I drilled them out and the firewall came out no problem.

 

are you reversing it?

 

I have not quite decided yet, but I am leaning towards it.

 

i was thinking of this also.... would the original fuel tank need to be altered to reverse the firewall?

 

I am not 100% sure yet, but it looked to me like if you are going to keep the gas tank in the car you might have to cut a portion out of the front of the gas tank.

 

Did it the same way removing my 28's firewall..worked fine

 

Getting ready to do the same thing this week end thanks for the question.

 

here is a link to some tools for the job..the drill bits for this job are killer and work great

http://www.dentfix.com/listCategori...tegory=5&category=Spot_Weld_Drills,_Bits,_Etc.

or do it old school

 

I believe the reversed firewall will fit with the original tank in place on the '30-31.



Not a great picture, but you can see the ribs are reversed and this owner has told me he runs the original tank. Still has a dimple for the distributor.

 

It will not fit the stock tank if you truly reverse it. The one posted above doesn't sit back as far as mine. I'm guessing the owner trimmed the flange down to not set it so far back.
Here is how I did mine
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=248034

 

I removed all the screws, rivets, and drilled out the spot welds on my 31 truck. The firewall is loose at the top, but not at the bottom. Does anyone have any suggestions, or have ran into the same problem?

 

Is reversing the firewall the best way to go? Or is it easier to cut out what you need to make room. Does it look the nicest? Opinions?

 

More spot welds to find, they also can mate for life and need some persuasion

Yes to all. It becomes personal preference.

 

Check out my firewall recess in my build thread. I was able to do it without losing any toe board.

IMO, model A's are supposed to have that rounded shape firewall edges. Doesn't look right reversed and it's not as easy as just flipping it around and welding it back in.

 

Food for thought: Use an Electric SBC Water Pump mounted & plumbed to a piece of angle iron mounted under the car or ??? Plumbing it with some copper tubing will give you extra cooling where you could get away with no fan.

 

Great idea if you need more room for your engine to fit.

Frenchy

 

yes yes yes!!! you will be able to see them. If you have a new sharp 1/4" drill bit you can usually drill from the outside into the spot weld just far enough to cut out the weld, without drilling clear through the firewall.