#@%*August 2013 Banger Meet #$^&

If you look real hard at the second picture, is that the fuel pump boss you can just see from the inside of the block, or just the oil return?

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No, Not a B.

B blocks have a vent holes on either side of the head stud between #2 & #3 cylinders.

Also the B block has two pan bolts close together near the back of the block.
A blocks have a pan bolt next to the rear main cap.

I'm guessing it is an early block because of the early crank. But it isn't a 5 bearing cam block. The first 250,000 - 300,000 blocks made had 5 cam bearings.



.

 

No Chain, 1500 lb strap,

 

JpB,
Is that a breather on the oil pan and what good does the do for the engine??
Mike

 

Well Reddy let me tell you what. This engine ordinarily only travels 1/4 of a mile and some times 1/10 of a mile. It is 228.1 cubic inch's and is fed, at this time, by 2 Winfield BB side drafts through 1.750 valves. It had a 16.5 Al V8 flywheel and was constantly blowing the oil fill tube out on acceleration when first built. As I had a couple of different breathers in the pile I installed this one, which is the smaller of the 2, to help relieve the pressure in the crankcase. It has J and E slipper skirt pistons with 1/16 compression rings which seal rather well. I installed this breather several years ago and haven't blown the tube out since. Of course, maybe I'm hammering the tube in tighter now but that is the reason I installed the breather.
At the last 66 hill climb we raced the only engines to go faster than our Winfield flat head A engine were the B engined 4 ports and then only by .5 second or so.

 

JpB
I was think on do that to my oil pan, thinking that it will help relieve the pressure in the crank case and stop the oil leak that I have a times I get,
after a hard run in the pickup
Mike

 

It would seem that the stock model B or maybe its a BB (fat) oil filler tube would/should work for street as long as it is clean. Is the oil return pipe on the rear main cap clear, of course this is if you have babbit.

 

Does it leak from the pan, outside of the flywheel housing, or from the cotter key in the hole in the bottom flywheel housing?

 

I was talking to myself out in the shop mainly cause there ain't no one else out there but me, well my dog comes in but he wants a treat or a drink cause he drinks outta the toilet!

I Got to thinking about questions asked and most times answered. Seems like everyone wants to go real fast. Most of those have model A's or B' Ford engines (watch out for the Mopars, and Stovebolts) and you/they see alla this speed stuff that ya just gotta have. Now I'm trying to speak to the street racers, dragsters, and hillclimbers. Just want you to know that when we run the hill climb we are turning 3900 RPM's, at the end of the 1/4 mile we are turning 3750. What I'm saying is you don't need all of that stuff. I was running a repop Al Winfield head not some exotic rare piece. There is a guy in the midwest or some where's that makes pistons that don't cost an arm and a leg. I'm running "Skokie" rods, I think you can buy oversize valves from the same place AER. I'm using 1 3/4" intakes, got a good cam from Jim B, sure its a regrind but it works. I think most of the pistons available from the reputable suppliers will stand all the compression you are going to need. Remember, I was running a basically stock b distributor.
Now, I'm not speaking of Bonneville or El Mirage cause thats a whole different game.
Think about it!!

 

Well said Bill and it has to be remembered that ifr you try to run a Bonneville motor on the street it will not last long, it will cost you a lot of money and it yould be a right contrary thing to drive. It would in fact be far cheeper to run a belly button Chevbut not half the fun.

 

Right on, Bill

I'm running an original Miller-Schofield head on the street. Sixty years of futzing with A's tells me that all it does for the car is add bragging rights.

I have a chassis dyno now--once I get the instrumentation hooked up, I'll see how much more power I'm getting over a stock B. Valves are easier to set, though.

Herb

 

Congrats on the dyno Herb- you need to throw the ALF on it sometime !!!

 

Okay Gentleman, I had some help pulling the pan off my motor to confirm the crank.
From the info posted in response to my original questions, I think it is a standard good original type counter balanced B crank.

Is this correct?

 

And secondly,
This motor has what I assume is the stock B bellhousing and pressure plate assembly where the oil pan continues under it.

My B motor that is in the blue car has the A bellhousing and transmission and uses an A oil pan.

Here are a few pics I took of it.









Is the piece pictured in the next few pics for the B motor? And will a standard V8 trans from like 36,37,39 bolt to it





This is the standard A transmission bellhousing correct? It has the side frame mounts pads cast in.





So this leads me to my next question. The thing for me that I feel holds back a hopped up banger driveability wise is the A transmission.

I know you can take the "later gears" and fit them to a B trans case. Is the B trans case different than a standard 32 to 39 case in how it mounts?

I was considering buying a Clive's adapter for my last B powered A and running a later transmission. Now that I have this complete B motor with the bellhousing and pressure plate etc. can I just bolt a 39 trans to it using the piece I have pictured above?

 

A Rodder, the first photo looks like the one piece crank. On the others you have the B flywheel housing which is still attached to your motor and a A flywheel housing and A bellhousing. None of these parts will work to put a later V8 trans in your car. You can use a B trans with later gears but you will need to find a way to mount your wishbone and brake and clutch pedals. Or you can buy the adapter and use your B motor with an A oil pan and then a V8 trans.

 

Checking in this month...

 

So to clarify the B Four cylinder trans is different than the common V8 39 style gearbox. Is this correct?

 

Yes.

 

Arodder...
Use the bb bell housing and put a 5 speed behind that engine


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I like your thinking. I love my 5 speed banger.

.

 

Hmmm

 

Or if you want the premium solution.....

http://www.macsspeed.com/adapters_1.html

Mine is drilled for both the A and B block, has the bolt pattern for both a Ford or a Chev T5 and has the side shafts for both LHD and RHD pedal assemblies

I figure it will be a feature of every Banger powered car I build, as it will out last me

Backed with an S10 4WD T5 with one of Dan's closed drive conversions, feeding a Halibrand 101 QC

...... aluminium stuff always looks cooler than a BB bellhousing

Now I just need to save my dollars for a aluminium OHV head to complete the ensemble

 

Thanks for the link. Lots of realy cool stuff on their site.

 

I'm wondering if any can help me out with this. This is what I'm running. A Simmons supper power head 6.1 compression and a Ansen intake with a holley 94. When I lay off the Gas 45-50 mph it back fires or just running at that speed It will start bogg down and back fire. The jets right now are 47's. Is it timming or starving for fuel? Thanks

 

Have a look at this gearbox adapter. You'll have to look close. It's a thin piece of steel drilled with both Ford and GMC bolt pattern. I have run this in my GMC 302 powered truck for about 20 years....... So it's your choice think or spend a ton-0-$$$ for a bell housing.

Guys this isn't rocket science Please just look and think outside the box a little

I think most of you can devise simple ways of mating gearbox and engine

 

Generally

Out the carb ......... lean

Down the pipe ........ rich

 

You might have a torn or leaking power valve / diaphragm.

.

 

Hello

Made some updats on my banger. Built a new header for it and for the first time ever I run a muffler. I have caps that screws off if I need to make noise. I extended the flange beyond the front and rear exhaust port to be able to put extra studs there. Just got tired of blowing manifold gaskets.On the other hand the flange is made from 10mm (just over 3/8") steel plate so maybe it would have worked out without the extra studs.

I also participated in a hill climb and was the3rd fastest car at 26.9 seconds. The fastest ran 26.4 and that was a glass roadster with a pretty strong running chevy smallblock. Second best banger was a speedster at 30.4 seconds if remember correct. Here is a short clip och the first part of the hill. It's steeper then it looks in the clip. http://s89.photobucket.com/user/flatred53/media/MVI_4095_zpsd536871f.mp4.html

//Magnus

 

Hey Magnus!

Looks good. Didn't make it this year, engine has cost too much for a trip to Sweden, but when next project is ready, I'll give the hill a go!

Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr

 

Seeing that coupe blast up the hill was truly fantastic. I'd love to see old Henry's face if he was there! If that ain't badass I don't know what is..!
The flatheads there looked like on a sunday cruise compared to this banger.