Broken installer tool in Crank 350 Chevy

I'd cautiously go after removing the broken bolt stub.

I would want at least 2 bolt diameters of bolt engagement with some room above the stub to spare, and even then getting the exact combination of bolt and washers would be tricky.

 

You know,
just for future reference....

I put the cleaned and ready balancer on a hot plate for about 5 mins. ( not 10 too hot is no good, just warm enough that you don't want to hold it, not so it burns you)
Oil up the crank snout and the balancer bore.
Slip the balancer on and thread in the crank bolt and washer.
Set torque wrench to 50 and crank the bolt in. I've never had it click my torque wrench so its never gotten to 50 ftlbs effort and so far never had any issue this way. Just did another yesterday.

 

I just noticed the thread had some replies. The last thing I did yesterday was locate a small file sort of like a chain saw file but with the knurled cutting part going to the tip. I have the hole through the adaptor, and thought the next size bigger bit would get into the threads, I'm going to try to get the rest of the threads from the adaptor out with the file in a drill going real slow, then try to run a tap through the crank for a new bolt.

If I have any luck getting the hole clean I will get a new balancer, and get the end of the crank as clean as possible with some lubricant.

This will have to happend when, and if it cools down, at my age I can't take the heat.


Thanks for the help

 

I found a bolt in my junk that fits, it goes in a least a half inch before hitting the threads on the adaptor. That might not be enough to press the balancer on with a new installer tool.

I may have to get a parts car and use the engine and trans, it would be less work for me than trying to tear this one down to replace the crank.

Thanks for your help

 

I finally drilled the adaptor out of the crankshaft working up to a 3/8 regular bit, I bought a 25/64 but I was afraid it would get into the threads. I was able to run a new 7/16 tap all the way through to clean up the threads. This was a nerve racking job to say the least but it's out.

Now I have been searching for the best and safest way to put a new balancer on, I'm not even going to try the old one again.

Some say to heat up the balancer, some say oil lightly on the outside, some say silicone on the inside where the balancer goes over the end of the crankshaft. I do not want to break another adaptor so I'm looking for advice as to the safest way. I'm going to pick up a new balancer tomorrow, and rent the installer tool instead of buying one like before since this will probably be my last go round with engine work at my age, 67 and busted up bones.

Thanks in advance
custom50

 

The crank is very soft at those threads. The idea of pulling that balancer with a bolt is sheer fantasy.

Heat the hub of the balancer and go thru the seal??? Laughable. The mass of the balancer hub would require enough heat to compromise the seal.

The diameter of the installation tool's working threads is evidence how much pressure is involved. (a mere threaded stud in the small tapped bore of the crankshaft would probably strip in the nut's travel area, so a GOOD balancer install tool is in order: a local machinist can make you a HARD tool to the specs of the broken one, pilot tool only)

I had the SAME thing happen, NAPA tool also: my machinist friend Klaus made me a new pilot, harder than a whore's heart. Voila!
Went on smoothly, after a #400 sandpaper polish of crank snout with WD40, same for the inside of the balancer hub.
It's worth it to have the tool made, (I didn't want to replace the crank OR hammer the balancer back on!)

 

iF YOU OR SOMEONE ELSE IS GOOD WITH A MIG,SLOWLY BUILD UP A PILE OF WELD UNTILL ITSTICKS BEYOND THE CRANK SNOUT.After it cools take a pair of vicegrips to it and it should come out.

 

Thanks that was what I wanted to hear, some good advice, I know a machinist that opened his own shop, he used to work at his dads Napa until his dad had to sell. I will get him to make the tool as you have said, I don't even want to go through this again.

Thanks a lot
Custom50

 

See post 62.
That's how I do it.
Setting your torque wrench and not going over the setting eliminates the possibility of braking/stripping the bolt. I've never had a problem doing it this way. The crank snout and balancer bore should be polished up and oiled.

Heating the balancer should include an exact temperature to take up to, however I don't. Too hot and you'll melt the rubber and damage your seal. If it burns the oil - isn't too hot, if you can touch it bare handed its too cold.

 

Now that you have it out try dry ice on the crank and heat the balancer with a hair drier.

 

I went the left hand bits up to 9/64 without any luck then started with regular bits up to a 3/8 I was able to get all but a thin slice of metal left on the threads then used a 7/16 tap very carefully to run it through the threads. I'm picking up a new harmonic balancer tomorrow. I will be very careful press ding the new on. Thanks to the advice of having a machinist make a harden adaptor.

Thanks
Custom50

 

When you install the balancer, add some gasket goo to the keyway of the balancer. I thought I had a leak in the cover, only to find out it was leaking through the keyway of the balancer. A little dab is all it took to seal that leak up.

 

Did your balancer installer have the bearing between the big nut and balancer?
Fined some one that has a blue point (snap on) installer thay work good.

 

I went back to your previous post, i'm getting a new balancer, and I will clean up the end of the crank until it is super clean. I have never tried to heat up the balancer, and now my luck I would mess it up so I think I'll go to the extra expense of having a machinist make a hardened adaptor. If I were younger I probably take a chance with heat and the bolt.

I did make a tool in the 80's to press a balancer on a slant 6 volarie. I guess it worked because I wasn't so worried back then.

Thanks
Custom50

 

Yes it had the bearing before the big nut, it could have been bad steel, or it could have been my fault since I had the car on a lift a little too high, and I didn't' have a straight pull with the cresent wrench. I made the mistake and I really don't want to take a chance on having to go through that job again.

Thanks
Custom50

 

I have a blue pont installer I could mail you if you want to barrow it.

 

Wow that's generous offer thanks a lot. I just talked to the Machinist from Church where we used to go and he said he could make me and adaptor super strong.

Without the advice from Atwater Mike I would never have thought of the heat treating.

Thanks again, there are some really great people on this sight.
custom50

 

No worrys man.
Good luck with the next round.

 

just a tip, the early 265/283,had no tapped hole for a retainer bolt ,the balancer was installed using a driver and hammer. Faced with a balancer replacement on my '56 and not having room to get a straight swing because of the core support and gravel shield , I used the motor mount bolts located in the front of 95% of SBC's . I bought some good 3/8" all thread from McFadden-Dale and cut a couple pieces about 6" in length , then treaded them into the already tapped holes and used jam nuts against the block. I then used a piece of a concrete form stake ,3/8" x 2" drilled a couple holes for the allthread to pass through, and pulled the balancer into place. Note the early balancer had the pulley riveted on so one would have to install some stand off shims to keep from squashing the pulley , I used a 327 balancer that has a flat face and bolt on pulley. Worked for me.

 

In my opinion, there have been two correct answers to this problem......

As far as putting the damper back on the crank snout, put some ice from the refrigerator in a plastic bag and wrap it around the crank snout for an hour or so before attempting to install the damper. Put the entire damper into a large pan of water at about 200 degrees and let it simmer for an hour. The ice will reduce the diameter of the crank snout and the hot water will enlarge the damper bore so that it should be an easy slide-it-on operation, no tools required. I learned this from my father, who was a tool & die maker.

 

Sounds like you had quite a complicated job going on, I know what your talking about with tight quarters, I ended taking the car off the lift so I could tow it to my buddy's shop but he kept telling me he couldn't get to it right away. So we pushed the car back in the garage raised the front and from then on I was between having my face really close to the crankshaft, and my back against the radiator core support. This is why I want to make this my last b as harmonic balancer install.

Thanks
Custom50

 

My dad was a tool and die maker also but he wasn't into working on cars.

Someone said summit recommens the heated water, while some say heated oil.

One thing i know is after getting all the help from this thread the car will be running by the end of the week.

Thanks to all
Custom50

 

I need some advice, I have a new timing cover I was going to put on the 350 engine. I drilled out the broken adaptor tool trying to put the harmonic balancer on but bits of metal got behind the seal when I would flush the bits of steel from drilling. I took a magnet to get behind the rubber part of the seal. If I can get the seal out, vacuum inside, do you think it would be safe to put a new seal in without going to all of the work to get the new timing cover on.

Putting the new aluminum cover on was my plan but after having more medical problems I would like to be finished with this job, the sooner the better.

I would hate to leave bits of metal behind the timing cover, and if I could get it all out it would save me more work.

Thanks
Custom50

 

When you were working on it did you have it jacked up just in the front ?
Did you spray a bunch of cutting oil on it when you drilled ?
I would say if yes for both than it would be better to remove the cover.

 

Man its better, easier and cheaper to do this now.
It's a 15-30 min no money job now.

 

Salflats,

Yes I had the front end raised up, I didn't think to block off around the seal.

31Vicky with a hemi,

I just put pictures in the computer, my instincts said not to do it. Along with you guys we were all right. I could never have gotten the metal out from the bottom of the timing cover.

Now when I can get back to it, I have a new aluminum cover with a seal already installed. I know I ihave to try to get all of the dried silicone out, I have the bolts loosened so the pan would drop down.








Wish me luck because I sure need it.

Thanks
custom50

 

Just read this thread....I'm a little late. Next time the bolt breaks...and balancer is installed...make a drill bushing that fits inside balancer ( you can make a few,..different sizes,..stepping it up a few sizes in the process) if balancer is not on ...a two piece drill bushing. One over the crank snout, the others inside of crank snout bushing,...again stepping it up a few sizes.this will also keep the chips out. Use good drill bits. I have used carbide tip style ( or all carbide) bits also,..works awesome. Get it as close as you can to existing threads...the threads of the broken bolt should come. Pick,blow or retap. For installation using boiling water is a good trick. Make sure both surfaces are clean and smooth. Oiling surface and using a dead blow hammer,..you can tap it on. They used to install them like this before the crank snouts had threads. If you mess the threads up, you can tap the crank to the next size. There's a few of s.b.c's with 1/2x20 big block harmonic balance bolts in them. Good luck!

 

Make sure you bend those cam gear bolt lock tabs up too!

 

the only way I ever installed a dampner is a 12 pd sledge and a 4x4 and it never failed
got a nice new kent moore installer and never used it for fear of failure

an d never had a problem doing it this way and raced stock cars 18 year and built a few engines

 

This is what I do and it ALWAYS WORKS!