I can't get my 54 Chevy Truck to start (no spark)

I've had a Pertronix in two cars for years without a hiccup. Do a search and enjoy some of the rediculous arguments.

 

Pertronix and 5 minutes work.......No more points issues. Napa IC64 coil is internally resisted.....do away with that resistor block and eliminate another potential problem. Set timing to the BB at the pointer in the window to the flywheel. pull the top off the carb and clean out all the fine brown silt out of the bowl. Install a rebuild kit.....pretty easy, even for a novice....just follow the directions. Make shure there are no vacuume leaks. Run fuel line from intake of fuel pump to gallon gas can to eliminate any crap in the tank or lines. Crack the fitting at the carb and turn over to see that fuel pump is working. Swear regularly and invite friends over to heckle you while you work. This thing is, by design, a tractor with a body made to be rebuilt out in the field where it may have broken down by any farmer, no matter his mechanical ability.

 

Looking at your pictures shows me you may have a wiring problem? It looks like plug wires 4 and 5 are swapped. The rotation should be 1 5 3 6 2 4. I would also say go electronic ignition. Get rid of the points. Go to Tom Langdons page and get his S-10 mini HEI. You'll never regret it.
Dom

 

Getting all viewpoints on any given subject isn't "rediculous". And just because you haven't had any problems doesn't mean there haven't been any.

 

They are switched...at least in that picture. Good eyes 52HT.

 

Another vote for Pertronix, a wicked easy upgrade. But keep the points and condenser in a zippy lock baggie in the truck in case the Pertronix fails on you in the middle of nowhere. Not that it should, but keep those old parts. They work too, they are just more of a nuisance.

 

I can't thank all of you enough for all the insight!
I learned a lot today and it was all because of the info shared on this site.
I really appreciate it!

 

That's great...it's one of the reasons we're here. I for one, don't mind taking time out of my busy busy busy day. As for these other guys, I think they just don't have anything better to do.

So were the plug wires switched? Got your points adjusted? Was there a vacuum leak at the choke? What'd ya have for lunch? Wait...scratch that.

Most importantly...is the engine running good?

 

.017-.022 set the points and get it running a dollar bill thickness is close enuf after filing

 

Hope it is running for you now! Consider joining the AD social group here- there is a huge
amount of knowledge on there and Cubby has a tech thread sticky that you will refer to
again and again. Hope you enjoy the truck for many years, even if it is a Cyclops (inside
joke for ad lovers, join the AD truckers and you will figure it out). Jim

 

One thing, some of the guys are always all too ready to jump in and suggest you make changes to this that or another rather than help solve the current issue. Electronic ignition is fine but not necessary or needed nor maybe desired at the moment when you are attempting to start the truck. The points are pretty much a given. With clean contacts and the right gap they almost always work. maybe not quite as efficiently as an electronic setup but you aren't fighting setting up an electronic setup along with trying to start a truck that may or may not run.
Get it running and running fairly well and then you can decide if you want to swap to an electronic ign or other systems.

 

Well, unfortunately its not running yet. Argh!!
This is what I'm faced with so far.
1. I still have that darn crappy starter that makes a screeching noise when its not cranking the flywheel. Is this something I can have rebuilt or buy new?
2. I have the old school fuel pump with the glass window. I've cranked the engine over several times and I still don't see fuel in it. I've put about 2 gallons in the tank so I'm not sure if that's enough to start the siphon or if the pump is just bad. If the pumps bad do the local auto parts stores still sell them? I really dig the old school style.
3. When the engine is cranking it'll go reow..reow...reow..blump..blump...reow..reow..reow..blump..blump..reow...reow..reow..blump.

that's the best I can describe it. seems like it tries to fire after a few cycles then goes back to just cycling again.

 

By far the best thing I have seen on this site.



Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I figured someone would get a kick outta that. haha

 

3. When the engine is cranking it'll go reow..reow...reow..blump..blump...reow..reow..reow..blump..blump..reow...reow..reow..blump.


that's to funny. hell sounds better than mine.
on the serious side fuel pump should be replaced ,easy and cheap. parts store should be able to get it. gas tank needs replaced or at least cleaned well. new gas will keep eating the rust inside and keep plugging fuel filter. try a gas can for testing. just run a line to pump instead of gas tank. you are learning and it is easy to fix. might put a little gas in carb and see if it runs.

 

Bob, just try a little gas down the carb. Just a little! Now did you see the info regarding the 4th and 5th plug wires? If the first picture is current, then you have two plug wires swapped. Another thing you may try is another condenser. They're known to be trouble at times. Have you put the engine to top dead center? Looking at the flywheel just behind the starter you'll see a little window. There is a pointer that should point to a little ball imbedded into the flywheel. When you rotate the engine to that point, look to see that the rotor is pointing to the wire going to number one plug. that's the first one up front. Check the wiring to the rest of the plugs in this order. 1 5 3 6 2 4 going clockwise around the cap. You need to get the basics correct first.
Dom

 

Fastcar,
I've been trying to check online to see if the local auto parts carry the glass bowl type fuel pump.

52hardtop,
I did check the firing order and yes it was incorrect. I had fixed it before the car made the noises I mentioned. I'll work on verifying the correct firing point for cylinder #1 right now.

Thanks

 

Hey Bob, is there a wire to both posts of the coil? I swear I don't see one to the rear side of the coil.
Dom

 

Yes, there's a wire on the positive and negative terminals on the coil.

 

Where is the positive wire coming from?
Dom

 

I'm assuming the ignition since it goes into the firewall. I haven't traced it back since its wrapped up in a loom. It's gotta be the ignition though since it only gives a reading when the ignition is on.

 

http://www.americanclassic.com/Google_Base_HTML_Pages/FP37-1947.htm you do not need the glass bowl fuel pump. just get a new fuel pump and put a glass bowl fuel filter at carb. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m2999?seid=srese1&gclid=COL656er6rgCFUlp7AodRQ0A3w http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-Chevy-Glass-Bowl-Fuel-Filter-NEW/200915408606?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D17153%26meid%3D390576659091858547%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D8016%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D330848126601%26#ht_446wt_1172 just some examples

 

I'm so tempted to just walk into Autozone and get the regular fuel pump but I really like the look of the glass bowl type. Maybe I'll just get frustrated enough tomorrow and cave in.

Anyone have comments on my starter issue?

 

Maybe the battery is getting a little weak with all the spinning and no charging from a running engine. If it's constant I would say you have a starter issue. But if it's not constant and only intermittent, maybe a charge on the battery will help. Could be the solenoid is not moving out enough? Hey, by the way, you may have a later than a 54 motor in there? The valve cover looks later then a 54 with the filler in the center. You should take a look at the cast numbers on the head at the drivers side of the engine. It might be cool to get the heritage of your motor. About the positive wire to the coil. It should be coming from the ballast resister on the fire wall. That round looking dohicky looks like it might be your resister.
Dom

 

Side note: Notice that the cheaper fuel pumps are crimped together and can't be rebuilt...unlike the more expensive type that are screwed together and can be rebuilt. The rebuildable ones are old-style and cooler imo.

After sitting for years, that old gas tank could have all kinds of crud in it. Actually, it was probably better that it sat empty rather than having any remaining gas turn to varnish. Anyway, you might not be getting any flow out the tank at all.

The first thing, is to find out whether the engine isn't starting because of no fuel, or because of no spark. As said, dribble a little gas down the carb and try to start. Or just pump the accelerator as you view down inside the carb to see if it's squirting fuel. Squirt squirt...try to start. No start...it's ignition. No squirt...fix the fuel flow.

Are you saying that the starter squeals when the engine is running? If so, I think maybe the starter gear isn't disengaging. A starter rebuild might be in order. If you get the engine running, don't run it for more than a few seconds...you can fuck up the starter even more and your ring gear too. The starter turns the flywheel slowly because of the large difference in gear size. But when it's the other way around and the big ring gear is turning the starter gear...whoa...hang on mama...it'll spin the starter gear to the moon, and cause damage.

 

you could send the old fuel pump to "then and now" in Mass and they will rebuild it to handle modern fuels .

as for the starter if its a standard style just get a replacement , if its a oddball take it to a rebuilder ,the noise is from the selinoid not pulling the bendix into the flywheel and eventually it will knock teeth off the flywheel or wipe out the bendix teeth , also I noticed there is no wire from the "s" post of the starter to the positive post on the coil , that will give the coil a boost when starting it as its 12v not the resistor reduced voltage ( 6 v ) and only kicks in when the motor is being cranked . as for the cranking over noise the blub blub is the engine firing with the exhaust valve open.

 

NAPA should carry the non glass fuel pump,cheap. Swap it for now. The glass one is vailable from Jim Carter Truck parts.

Come visit us here...
http://talk.classicparts.com/forumdisplay.php?f=7

 

52Hardtop,
Yes, I discovered some time ago that the motor is either a 61 or 62. I found out when I tried replacing the front motor mount that no one carries. I'm now on the hunt for another front engine plate from an earlier year so that I can use the standard motor mount that everyone sells.

Rickybop,
The starter only squeals when I'm cranking the engine on. It disengages when the motor is trying to run. I think the solenoid isn't moving out enough as 52hardtop mentioned. If so, can I just replace the solenoid?

Stimpy,
yes, there is no wire from the starter to the coil. Well, none that I can see running directly to it anyways.

 

Sent you a pm,let's get your truck running dude

 

Subscribed, this is how help wanted post should go. Its a process of elimination with suggestions acted on and good feedback. Frustrating as it is you'll get it and I wouldn't "update" to a different system such as electronic ignition until you reach a conclusion with what you have with existing components it tends to confuse the issue. somehow I totally understood the 3. When the engine is cranking it'll go reow..reow...reow..blump..blump...reow..reow..reow ..blump..blump..reow...reow..reow..blump