Register now to get rid of these ads!

I can't get my 54 Chevy Truck to start (no spark)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bobafet1, Aug 5, 2013.

  1. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Alright, so I'm clueless when it comes to electrical so please keep that in mind.
    I have a 54 Chevy truck that won't turn on. I took off a spark plug, cranked the engine, and noticed it didn't have a spark. I'm not sure what to do next.

    Brief history: I bought the truck from my uncle, who kept it sitting for many many years. He claims it was converted from a 6V to 12V system. Here are some pics so you know what I'm looking at.


    Any advice/help is appreciated.

    Thanks

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. You have to ground the plug or it won't spark.

    If you're sure there's no spark at the plug, you go to the coil, keep following back through the system until you find spark, or 12V to the coil.
     
  3. KRB52
    Joined: Jul 9, 2011
    Posts: 1,077

    KRB52
    Member
    from Conneticut

    Diagnosis is just breaking things down into steps, then starting with the easiest ones and working up to the more complex. You said the engine cranked, that shows you have power in the battery. Now, how much power? Check the voltage of the battery with a meter. If it is good, check your power to the coil. If that is good, check the spark coming out of the coil. Check that the same way you did with the sparkplug originally. If you have spark to the distributor, time to check that. New points and condenser may be in order and remember to set the gap on the points. If all of this is correctly set up and in working order, you should now have spark out to the plugs, assuming the plugs and wires are good.
     
  4. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


  5. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Ok, so I read as much as I could stand of that thread.

    Deja vu? Hopefully it won't take me 9 pages of help before I start listening to suggestions.


    In any case, this is what I've done so far.

    1. Put a screwdriver on a spark plug wire, cranked the engine, and looked for spark. NO SPARK STILL
    2. Pulled the center cable on the distributor and tested for spark via the screwdriver method. NO SPARK
    3. Used a multimeter to:
    A. test the positive lead going to the coil. THERE IS POWER
    B. test voltage from positive lead of coil to negative lead of coil while ignition was on. I DIDN'T GET ANYTHING
    C. test voltage from positive lead of coil to grounded engine. I GOT 12V.


    In about an hour I'm going to bite the bullet and call a mobile mechanic for $75. I figure if I can't get this started soon I may just be better off watching someone else fix it and learning that way. I'd just hate to spend $75 though if its something very very simple. Oh well.
     
  6. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    BTW, my starter makes a nasty grinding sound from time to time. It's almost as if its not engaging the flywheel. Is it time for a new starter?
     
  7. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    Clean (sand paper or file) the points or replace them
     
  8. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,872

    henry29
    Member

    Pull the distributor cap and post a pic of the inside of the cap and the points.
     
  9. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    I just used the multi-meter to test the voltage (with ignition on) from the positive terminal of the coil to the negative terminal of the distributor. I GET NOTHING
     
  10. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Jimm56
    Joined: Aug 27, 2010
    Posts: 170

    Jimm56
    Member

    Isn't there a resistance wire running from the distributor to the coil? If it's bad, it won't start. I had one break inside the insulation once, drove me crazy!

    Just saw your photos of the distributor. Nasty and dirty-clean everything up (especially the points) and reset the points to about two playing cards gap. Reassemble and try.
     
  12. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I also doubt it'll take 9 pages for you to implement suggestions. Big difference though...the OP of that thread is 16 years old, no experience at all, ran into a couple gliches and is super limited on tools...but has the desire and willingness. It's not that he wasn't listening, as some tried to make out.


    Anyway, for you. Sounds like you may have already narrowed it down to the coil. I'd try a new one. Good luck.
     
  13. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    If you're referring to the wire going from the negative terminal of the coil to the negative terminal on the distributor then I've already replaced it.
     
  14. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Rickybop,

    I bought a new coil yesterday and wired it all in. I did the same tests with the multimeter and I'm still getting the same readings.
     
  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The points look a bit crusty. What is the point gap when you have the rubbing block of the point arm on one of the tips of the distributor Cam? The gap should be between .016 and .019 or about the thickness of a match book cover if you don't have a feeler gauge. Running an emery board between them and setting the gap with the rubbing block sitting on the tip of one of the cam lobes should be enough to hear it run.

    No resistance wire between the - post of the coil and the distributor. Never on any ignition system I know of.

    There should be a resistor in the line between the switch and the coil though.

    The round resistor on the firewall looks to be a voltage drop resistor to cut the power to six volt items to six volts so that might take care of that.

    My thoughts are that the points are burned a bit and may be sticking or not allowing current to flow through them like they should. They act as a switch to ground the coil to create a magnetic field in the coil when they are closed and cause the magnetic field to collapse and send a spark to the plugs when they open. They also have to be open for you to get a voltage reading on the - side of the coil.
     
  16. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    First, check to make sure the START wire from your ignition switch is connected, and has continuity to the coil when you turn it to START. If all is well there, you can temporarily bypass the resistor block to see if thats bad....just put a jumper wire across it to see if that's the problem. If that doesn't work, give it a tune-up: clean or replace the points, clean the corrosion on the distributor cap inner terminals or replace it, clean or replace the spark plugs, replace the spark plug wires with new. Then fire it up.
     
  17. Ice man
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 983

    Ice man
    Member

    If it set for a while clean the points, fine sand paper or a fine file between the contacts. They get a film on them and not current can pass. Looks to clean to have any major problems or needing parts. Don't replace parts till you locate problem. Iceman
     
  18. GMCBrian
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 59

    GMCBrian
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Agreed it is probably the points. Any Auto parts store will have them in stock. You may be able to file them and get enough spark to get it to run but you are still better off spending the $10 and replacing them.
     
  19. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Then it sounds like Mr48Chevy and VoodooTwin and the others are on the right track with the points.
     
  20. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Alright fellas,

    I'm going to work on the suggestions mentioned thus far. Can ya'll hold off on further help until I report my results please. I'm stepping outside to get right on it.

    Thanks
     
  21. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    When you guys are referring to the points is it this part right here?
    [​IMG]
     
  22. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Houston,
    we have spark!!!

    I took a bit of 1000 grit sandpaper and cleaned off the points & contacts.

    Now, its time to throw some gas in the carb, cross my fingers, and get those goose-bumps when you hear the car start for the first time.
     
  23. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 6,283

    El Caballo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes it is. How did it go? Invest in new points and condenser.
     
  24. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You may still have to adjust the points if you didn't do so when you sanded them.
    You want the rubbing block on the tip of one of the cam lobes like this when you do.
    [​IMG]
     
  25. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yaaaaaaayyyy!
     
  26. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    So, to adjust the points would I crank the engine until the rubbing block is in the correct position and then use a gauge to calibrate the correct gap? Are the two screws the one's I'll use to adjust the gap?

    My Uncle just called me and said I should just switch to an electronic ignition already so I don't have to worry about this crap anymore. What do ya'll think?

    BTW, the engine farted once and didn't do much after that. I noticed the carb has a vacuum choke but its not connected. Will this screw things up?
     
  27. harpo1313
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,584

    harpo1313
    Member
    from wareham,ma

    listen to your uncle,but get it running first to sort it out.also put a rubber gromet on that wire going through the firewall.
    YOU ALSO MIGHT CONSIDER DRAINING THE TANK ,CLEAN IT ,BLOW OUT THE LINES AND REPLACE THE FILTER AND ALL RUBBER HOSES,sorry bout the caps
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2013
  28. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    The truck sat for over a decade with the gas tank empty. So, I'm sure whatever was in there before has already dried up and possibly corroded on the bottom of the tank.
    I already replaced the fuel lines and the fuel filters still look new. =)
     
  29. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ...
     
  30. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Btw...you might get lucky cranking the engine to get a cam lobe and rubbing block lined up, but you can probably manully turn the engine to do that. Grab both a fan blade and the belt and turn. Make sure the key is off, and be careful not to pinch your hand/fingers.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.