I've never understood why some colors never produce a film layer and stay liquid, while other colors develop a film. Sometimes the layer is so thick, I have to cut it out and throw out the cookie of paint. Other colors just get a really thin film and it never gets thicker. I usually cut around it and fold it down into the paint, but it doesnt mix well and I get small hard chunks. It seems like such a waste of paint. Whats the deal?? I thought it might be that the paint spilled over the edge and the lid wasnt sealing. So I have a new way of getting the paint out of the can without pouring it. I always smack the lids down tight. Do you have problems with your paints forming hard films? Can I add something to the paint that wont effect the paint, but keeps it liquid? Thanks for any help!!
I have found that if you tape the top of the can with masking tape to seal out the air the problem seems to be solved. Hope this helps you.--TV PS I always do this as my paint sits for quite a while.
Por 15 is the biggest culprit for that ,i put the unused portion in a glass jar and tape it as mentioned,just dont let the paint get on the jar threads or cover. If you scoop out your portion without getting it on the edge of the can you will get a good seal.
I put a screw eye threw the top of the can and squeeze out paint. Can usually get to the bottom without ever getting a skin over. Been doing it for almost 30 years.
I sort of do what custom lettering does. I use big tins of enamel, some 4 litre but mostly 1 litre tins, so theres a lot of expensive paint at stake here, especially with the reds, magentas etc. So, heres what I do....... I weld a 3/4 or 1 inch washer on the end do a short roofing tek screw, it acts as a small thumb size handle to turn the screw. Roofing tek screws have a rubber seal on them and it helps seal the hole up that I screw the screw into. The hole is half an inch up the side of the can from the bottom, you see, there's no oxygen down there to allow a skin to form up top. The lid NEVER comes off and I never throw away skins with this method, you can use 99.62% of you paint as it should be used - on the job. It sounds like a bit of work to weld on the washers, but it only takes a couple of minutes to do a dozen or so, but they last for life! Try it, you'll like it. Oh, don't forget to take off the little rubber rings off of the tek screws before welding, or it will smell like a day at the drags and generally f¥k them up!! Hope this helps. -H.R.D-
There is an easy fix for this problem and it's called PaintSav It is made by a company called Sapphire Paints and they are located in Bay Pines, Florida and the last time I looked for them they only listed a PO Box number for an address. I have used this product that comes in a pint can for the past 30 years. Just had a few drops into any can of One Shot Sign Painters paint and it will never skim over again. I have not done any pinstipping or lettering in the past 5 to 7 years and yet when I open the lids on the One Shot paint it was like I had opened it two days ago. Sid Moses in Calif. used to sell PaintSav on his web site along with other paints and products. PaintSav works and if you give it a try you will agree. A pint can lasts for years and the best part is I don't have to scrap off dried paint every time I open a can of One Shot. Jimbo
I saw a guy pour all of his one shot paints into individual little plastic squeeze bottles with pop tops. Good idea, but looked like my mom's craft supplies. Just sayin...
Kensey that's what I do. Anytime I crack a new tin open I put about half into a quality squeeze bottle and put the can upside down on the shelf. The squeeze bottle cuts down on a lot of mess and easy to use and the paint in the can doesn't skin over very often.
I remember reading a few years ago that Ed Roth said he use to just poke his finger thru the layer of skim on top and go from there . Said later that this was most likely not a good idea due to his skin absorbing the paint chemicals over the years .
It is indeed the air in the can doing this. Storing upside down is a novel idea, the other way is a bit messy when you need it but it works. Take a bit of Saran Wrap or other plastic sheeting material and "rest it" on top of the liquid paint, then put the lid on it with the overlap of plastic in the trough around the lid. The small 1/2 pint cans could be problematic, but it really does work and lasts a long time. Another trick that I haven't employed in a long time is to very gently pour some of the solvent on top of the paint. I repeat, on top of the paint. You need to pour it in really slow and just enough to form a liquid "cover". The down side is to not shake it up too much in handling, and when you're ready you can just spill out the oz. or 2 of solvent. If it sits long enough it'll just blend back to it's original viscosity thanks to air trapped in the can. What ever you reduce with like spirits or plain ol hardware paint thinner will work.
Build more cars and use up the paint before it forms a skim on the surface. I never have that problem. Ps, I'v kept my POR in the freezer for well over a year.
I've successfully used the Saran Wrap method Highlander described. Prior to placing the Saran Wrap and lid on the can, make sure the trough is clean by sweeping it with a small brush or even a couple of Q-Tips. On house paint, I take a 8D nail and hammer a couple of drain holes in the trough so most of the over spill drips back into the can while I'm painting. As mentioned, best bet on a good seal is to never get paint in the trough to begin with by drawing the paint out in another method. The paint store sells plastic snap on pouring spots for gallon cans. Not sure about small size cans.
I did this and was all excited. I went in my paint box a couple months later and they were all dried It was like 20 colors.
I have a few 1 gallon cans that are about half full. what ive done but this is after the fact, is either use a screwdriver to pick up the skim and throw it out or if it isn to thick ill just put a mixer spoon on my drill and away I go. never had any paint that was ruined because of mixin it back up. before my paint supply became kinda big id shake up the cans evry few days.now I just use the saran wrap.
I letter stuff every couple of years lately, and have tried to keep the cans as pristine as I can. Stir the paint from the bottom, don't skake them ever, and keep paint out of the rims. You are gonna be paletting your brush anyway, no need to glop paint over the cans. At least that is what has worked for me over the last decade or so.
And remember folks, with enamels, the skins are made up of the dryers. The more skins formed, the more dryers used. Then you'll have a greater concentration of carriers and pigments only and eventually your paint will not dry - well that's what they taught me at signwriting trade school. -H.R.D-
^^^ DAmn dude! That makes sense! My paints that really film up and are half can or less really stay tacky for a long time.. Theres so many different styles and methods! I like the plastic cup method. I dip from a plastic dixie drinking cup. I pull the paint from the can using a bamboo stick and wipe it into the cups. I have done the screw trick with POR 15. Never thought of it for 1 Shot. Ill try the wrap too. All good ideas! THanks!!
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