Hot Rods 31 Model A Victoria Build w/Pics – Miss Vicky

Just spent two hours reading the whole thread again...love it...

 

Dave,
Great job. Love it when a plan starts to work...Cant wait to hear her run.

 

The engine and tranny look great together.

My 2c. Any thread insets in that adapter plate? Might want to do that. And perhaps some hex head bolts vs the socket heads.

 

Are you suggesting the inserts for extra strength? The adapter is cast aluminum, then machined, with no inserts.

And are the hex heads to spread out the force/weight a little more than the socket heads? Those are the bolts that came with the kit.

I also plan to cut off those two bumps at the top – they don't seem to serve any purpose.

 

Short answer, yes to both questions.

I would use a fine pitch threaded insert, this will be strongest. Some might argue it isn't needed. I even agree with that, but if you over torque the bolts, or they get loose and wobble you know what happens then. Pull the whole thing out to fix it.

You could also lock-tight a stud into the adapter and hold the tranny with a flat washer and nut. This would help spread the load away from the adapter.

 

Update: I changed the name of the thread to make it more searchable. I also changed the link labels to descriptions in the first post so you can tell what they are before clicking on them.

I'll give the inserts some consideration Sam. Of course I'd need a good machinist to pull it off. Do you know of anyone?

I'm going to continue with mock up for now and worry about that later. Thanks for your input – I appreciate it.

 

Glad to help, but you could do it yourself. All you need is a drill press and the correct drill and tap.

 

Hemi looks GREAT! I've set up that exact adapter and housing together. I had an issue with the starter interfering with the GM type bell housing. Have you experienced this? I ended up having to use a Lakewood bell housing to get the clearance I needed.

Out of curiosity, are those original chrome valve covers? They look super good!

 

Thank you Sam.

I haven't put the starter (Mopar mini) on yet, so I don't know, but I'll check.

Do you see a need for the two bumps at the top of the adapter or would I be safe cutting them off?

The valve covers are not originals (yes, I've already been told how much anything but original parts suck) but the wire covers are original.

 

I can't think of a reason why those upper bosses would need to be there. I'm guessing that the adapter design is used for multiple applications and is probably drilled/tapped accordingly. When in doubt, get it all together and then buzz 'em off. I'm sure you'll be fine though.

CHECK that starter! The kit originally called for a run of the mill mopar starter and the nose of the starter wouldn't clear the inside of the housing. When talking to Bob about it he knew nothing of the issue and was of no help at all with resolving it. (don't get me started on that or I'll be up on my soap box about HH again) Since you're running a mini starter, you might be okay.

I'm not 100% positive, but I think Pat (Wilcap) actually makes those FOR Hot Heads. I could be wrong, though.

Valve covers... Well I was curious because I was thinking about picking a pair of those repop chromed covers to have around until I can find some originals that look just the way I want them. They LOOK pretty good from all the pictures I've seen, but just never seen them in person. Can you tell how close they are to the originals? Are they thinner gage? Always wondered about that.

That engine will seriously look great in that Vic!

 

Thanks Scott, I'll check the starter fit. The adapter is cast and then machined. Aren't Pat's machined from billet? I've spoken to both of those guys and asked them directly if Hot Heads just resells Wilcap adapters and they both say no.

Take a look at the adapter in this photo of the Chrysler hemi to Chevy manual adapter that I took from the Wilcap site – It's clearly not the same adapter I have, unless they trimmed off the excess. Note the adapter fits the shape of the bellhousing perfectly. That looks like my bell too.




I paid $100 for the valve covers, so I'm pretty happy with them. They fit very well, but I can't say how well they seal yet. I'll check on the thickness.

 

Yeah, you're totally correct! Pat machines his and I definitely remember when I had the HH adapter that it was cast with their name embossed on the piece. I must be thinking of something else entirely.

Go check out that starter! And yeah, that is a good deal for those covers!

 

The difference in the two adapters that I see is that the one you have Dave, is designed to fit a Buick, Olds, Pontiac block or a hemi. The other adapter has the shape of a SBC engine flange.

I see no harm in trimming down the adapter unless you change engines (again).

 

General rule of thumb if you decide to go with heli-coils. Fine thread for steel and coarse for aluminum. Aluminum doesn't have enough density to support the fine thread as well as coarse. Been machining for 35 years so.....

 

After taking a second look, I bet you're right Sam – the casting is universal and then machined for a specific application.

Thanks, that makes sense.

 

Me too.

 

I haven't started fitting the engine yet – probably this weekend. I've been messing with the water pump, water crossover, pulleys, fan, etc.

I'm running a BBC water pump, so the upper pulley was easy, but the only single groove crank pulley I could find was a billet one from Hot Heads, and I really didn't want that. So I'm in the process of adapting a Chevy single groove crank pulley. I've got to make a 3/8 inch spacer to align it with the water pump, so I bought a 6 x 6 square of 3/8 aluminum plate off eBay this week.

I personally have no machining tools, so the spacer will be cut out on a band saw and the 6 holes will be drilled on my drill press. We'll see how that goes.

 

I have a feeling it will go extremely well for you.
The spacer Seems quite anti climatic compared to the other things you've pulled off here on this build.

Nice job my friend

 

All I need is a sketch for something like that. My uncle has LOT'S of material I can use. Then I can pit it in the mail or deliver in person. Also Dan needs something to make on his mill.

 

Hey, D-Russ, you might want to locate a late-year 331 block which won't have the extended bell housing. All the parts will interchange between blocks. You are one hell of a builder. Good luck with Miss Vicky.

 

Thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it, but I'm really just a hack figuring things out as I go along.

Curious, why are you suggesting a late 331 over the 354?

 

I spent about 5 hours today removing the extra meat from my adapter so it doesn't hit my trans tunnel.

The 3/4 inch aluminum plate was too much for my cheap band saw, so I had to resort to a hack saw and a grinder. Fun.

 

You didn't polish the adapter after all that work???! I thought you were going for the bling.

 

Heh-heh, he still might do it ...

 

Oh man! I just remembered something... You are going to need those ears! Do you want to know why??

 

Just kidding.

 

Ha ha ha ha!!!!!



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Actually, no, I'm going to paint the edges that show black like the rest of the drive train so it disappears. That's the secondary reason I'm cutting off all the material.

Ha Ha, I've gotta admit, you had me worried for a second.

 

Started stuffing the hemi in this weekend. I'm really surprised how well it's going to fit. The starting point for positioning the engine and trans was the tranny cross member. I wanted to leave it exactly where it was so I didn't have to rework the trans tunnel, drive shaft or firewall. Welp, I got real lucky – no mods will be necessary. The trans cross member is currenty bolted in and the transmission is resting in it.

So now I just have to center the engine, position the lower motor mounts and tack them in. I have a question though: At ride height, the car has a good bit of rake. How much tilt (in degrees) should the motor have once it's resting on the mounts? I didn't even consider this when I was installing the small block.

The existing firewall recess is perfect – the distributor tucks right into the peak of the recess and I can remove it easier than the one in the Chevy. An added bonus is the water outlet block offs in the back of the heads also tuck nicely into the recess which allowed me to get the engine about 3/4 of an inch further back.

Overall, the engine's length, even with the BBC water pump is about 3/4 of an inch too long to put the radiator back exactly where it was. But I've got an idea on how to modify the fan so the blades are closer to the motor. Then everything should fit just fine. One more question: Does anyone have a stock water crossover they want to get rid of?

Here are a few pics of what I did today:

 

Dave , you are my IDOL. Excellent work.....