Zip has recently found a way to build his pumps for small block and big block hemi's too as well as the big block Chevy. They are not on the open market yet but if you have interest in one call him directly. Zip 412-372-4411
guys help me out here, i have a zips on my model a and have major problems with it, If iam driving the car its great while going down the road, once its warmed up and the thermostat is open I can not let the car idle more then about 1 min before the temp shoots from 180 up to about 230! If i rev the car up i can get it to cool down but once iam off the gas it shoots right back up again. I changed out the water pump to a aluminum pump with the plate on the back side of the impellers, same shit? I know the directions say to hook up from the heater hose port to the right side cylinder head, problem with this is that i have old double bump 202s with no provision for this, so i have it plugged. I would hate to give up on this and go back to a stock sbc pump because i love the way it looks and i have a ton of time and money in cutting off the brackets, having it polished and getting a fan chrome plated and now buying a second water pump. any thoughts on this guys?
Thats cool there being made for the bbc and hemis. Noclubjoe, I have the same sorta set up you got. except i have the cast iron pump and runs 180 and will only go up to 190 when i run it hard. Did you bleed it on top of the zips? I bought the chevy bleeder that is talked about in several posts on the hamb. I bled it several times after running it and when cool. Or maybe you have some other problem.
I never saw one of those,but any thing that puts the pump up that high with out a bleed off at its top to a even higher spot in water =to top of rad or intake is going to be prob of cavation=air trap
No club, I ran the line to the 1/4 NPT drain on the bottom of the block with a 3/8" tube. Had problems like you, tried different pumps, vacuum filling, etc. finally got mixture and timing correct and added a shroud. 95 out, can't get it over 180 if I try. Raise front of car when bleeding. Using a Flow Cooler pump.
Why are you showing us the left side of your engine when the bypass hose should be on the right (pass.) side? Drill and tap a hole if you don't have one. Even drilling some bypass holes in the edges of the thermostat might work, worth a try. Mine works great, best thing since sliced bread!
Iam not running the bypass at all so it doesn't matter what side of the engine I show you, that's part of my question, does it need to be there? Is this part of my problem? I have bled the riser several times by taking out the screw, also leaving the screw out while filling up the system until coolant comes out the hole.
NOCLUBJOE, I have the exact same problem with my 32 coupe. Mine's a 388" small block but I am running a heater so have the heater hoses hooked up. So if anybody can help Joe it would help me as well. Thanks. Mick
I posted what I think your doing wrong,but ether I write things badly [very likely] or my spelling is so bad ya can't read me. So i'll try again with out "Y",***were the screw to bleed is on top, put a small fitting and run hose up* into rad top tank to bleed off steam/air trap,so pump dose not spin in air at low rpm..........................................It's only my idea from what you said,thats my last try ,I will not bother you more,hope that helps..
Dana, I understand what your saying and your idea is great , however Iam finding it hard to believe that air is the problem, I have bled this thing a bunch of times, while running, while shut down warm and cold both. I think I might have to put the stock pump back on and see how it acts to makes sure this isn't a different problem with my engine.
Well I just spoke with Mr. Zip himself on the phone, he is sure that the problem is that I have the bypass plugged, that coolant needs to loop back to the motor somehow. I didn't really want to get into drilling holes in the head but I guess if that's what I have to do....
THIS WORKS GUYS, I HAD SAME PROBLEM. My pump had a fitting, same as a stainless brake hose for front brakes, I ran it under the rubber hose (you really could not see it) to a bleeder valve on my radiator and no more bleeding air or "hot spots"
I know the directions say to hook up from the heater hose port to the right side cylinder head, problem with this is that i have old double bump 202s with no provision for this, so i have it plugged. There's your problem. The heater hoses are a bypass. If the instructions said something like, " it's imperative to install a bypass hose" would you ignore those ? Instead the instructions say hook heater hose port to right side head. Really don't see how your configuration couldn't have heater hose ports. That hole in the manifold is for a heater hose bib. The other idea about running a hose back to the radiator is a good one and might work.
Joe why can't you bypass into the top of the intake or into a block drain? You are you just trying to purge the air from the pump right? keep us posted !
I have a port in the front of my intake that I will try to run the bypass too, the reason I didn't do this from the start is because I'm trying to keep from having a mile of black hose running all over the motor. I like to keep things as clean as I can. If this takes care of it then I take the blame, do everyone of you guys ALWAYS go by the directions on everything you do? Probably not! I build things my way and 95% of the time my way works just fine. This falls in the other 5% haha!
I have double humb heads. I didnt use the heater hose port, i pluged it. I dont have a problem at all. My motor runs cool and stays cool.
NoClubJoe: Your post kind of got off the original topic, however to address your issue: If you don't have a problem while driving, only when stopped at idle, I would say you have an air flow problem through the radiator. It appears you are running a small diameter four blade fan with very little pitch. I would look at running the largest diameter 5 or 6 blade high pitch fan to increase air flow through your radiator. Additionally, try and get the fan as close to your radiator as possible and if this is a problem add a good fan shroud. I don't think the problem is in the Zip's riser.
thanks for the advice but its not a air flow problem. I ran this car around for 6 years with a stock sbc pump and no fan at all, the only time i had to turn on the electric fan was after about 20-30 mins of idle time in heavy traffic on a 90 degree day. this is a coolant flow problem at idle iam sure of it
Ok guys, setup a bypass hose tonight into the intake to try. I'll keep you posted tomorrow once I run this thing, it's getting late, this working for a living shit sucks!
Have not installed mine on the Deuce yet, but Flow Kooler has just come out with a new pump for this setup that has a CNC billet machined impeller. I just bought one and just got it a couple of days ago. LOOKS MUCH BETTER WITH TIGHTER CLEARANCES THAN THE POP RIVETED PLATE. Should be much better. Was about $70 + shipping.
Well guys running the bypass from the pump into the intake seemed to take care of the problem, after the thermostat opened I ran the car for 10 mins at idle and it only got up to 195. So like I said I take total blame for trying to not run the bypass, thanks for the help guys
Zip is a great guy and a damn fine machinest. If you have a problem or a question, Call him! he designed these pumps over 40 years ago and takes a lot of pride in them. He is a one man show and answers his own phone. Real easy to talk to also. He's a car nut!!! Zip, 412-372 4411
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