I just got the thing running right as far as timing, and I drove it for hours, then it started sounding like a knock that would come and go, but if you rev it as it decelerates it sounds like it's dry.it still runs great, but has the knock/grating noise.it was rebuilt before I got it, I burned the paint off the new split headers it has.I don't know if the distributor isn't turning the oil pump, and I don't know if it's junk now but like I said other than the noise it still runs good.if it needs torn down if anyone can use it I will probably let it and the 3 spd trans go, but I hope it's a lubrication issue and I can keep it just cuz no-one keeps em anymore...
Fuel pump making a racket?? Get someone to rev it up and listen to it with a piece of hockey stick....
Check your oil level then do as John says - check the oil prressure. the thing will run even if the distributor tang isnt completely in the oil pump slot. dont ask me how I know.
listen to the fuel pump at the engine. the fuel pump has a flat spot that the cam wears on. sometimes they go bad.
Getting oil to the rocker arms?,the rebuilt 57 235 I have did not after rebuilding it and had to grind a slot through the threads on the center head bolt to get oil up top.
No op gage yet...I just got happy I could even drive it at all...I did run it once with the valve cover off and it def.got oil then but that was before messing with dizzy...someone said a clutch could do that too, and mine will slip if I do anything too drastic(which isn't what I have the car for, so I baby it...like twice I wanted to see what it would do, and it spun the clutch not tires)...any truth to that? It just seems like it runs way too good to be the motor, but what do I know? Nothing really ha
Loose flywheel? Remove the inspection cover and check. Starter gear not disengaging all the way? I had a starter like that once. The flywheel was intermittently catching it. But it was more like a ting ting ting than a knock. And pull the valve cover again and see if it's still squirting oil.
This thread is all screwed up. you dont even know how to post symptoms. Call us when you you can describe whats going on. You have a mess going on.
Agreed wirh 6inarow, post symptoms, not the sideparts of trying to be on a dragstrip... if enhgine was rebuilt, they forgot the rest....if clutch spins, you got one problem there, and the clutchbearing could make some funny sounds..... but as others wrote: Check the oilpressure, and if you got oil in engine first!
Actually the path of the oil to the rockers does not go past the head bolt threads.It passes by the bolt shank above the threads.This myth gets repeated on the Stovebolt Page.........................
Its suppose to flow that way but that is how I got my 235 to get oil to the rocker arms,I now have a drilled head bolt. It either has the wrong head gasket blocking the oil passage or some miss matched bunch of parts and that is why it was pulled when I got it but it is now getting oil to the rocker arms where it did not before so in my case its no myth.
The drilled head bolt is an oil restriction when using early head and rockers on a 59 or later block. When you removed the bolt apparently something was blocked and it worked free. In any case,the oil path is not past the threads....
I appreciate any help I get, and I'm the last guy to be rude but I give what I get.I'm very new here, and new to my 50 Chevy. I left the forum for my other car because of too many assholes...I hope that doesn't happen here...I don't know how else to post symptoms other than the fact I said there's a Friggin KNOCK that comes and goes, and as it decelerates, or upon pushing in the clutch there is a SCREECH like something is DRY, metal to metal rattle screech, whatever ya wanna call it...I'm doing the best I can here.if I'm doing it wrong, don't stop there, tell me how to do it right.if you have no advice on how to either help me communicate or speculate on what's going on, then don't reply. On that note, thank you to those that have tried to give me some direction.I'm pretty sure it's my old dry clutch bearings, but any advice is welcome.
The symptoms were in my initial post...the drag strip comment was kinda out of place...I don't care how fast the damn thing goes, it's a cruiser...thanks for the valuable part of your input though.I'm convinced it's all clutch/ clutch bearing related.
OK, I will try to help. I assume I am one of the assholes you mentioned. I have seen one or two 235's before. Where does the knock come from. down low in the pan? I dont know how you rev it as it decelerates. If its decelerating, the RPM is going down. I dont get this statement. Burning the paint off the headers wont have much to do with it unless you have the timing off or the cam is way out of time and not not degreed on rebuild. That is highly highly unlikely but a possibility. If the distributor isnt in the oil pump you have some real problems. it wornt run long that way. That means get an oil pressure gauge on it NOW and take the freaking distributor out and get it in the pump if there is no pressure. That should allow you to take care of the oil pressure and or lube issues. Regarding the clutch issues, they were never mentioned in this post. Where the hell did they come from? It sounds like you have it isolated to lube issues in the block. Good luck
I take it that he revs the engine up and when he backs off the accelerator it knocks as it slows down. The fact that the paint is burning off the headers means that the engine wasn't run enough to burn it off after they were installed so whoever put it together didn't run it much. The oil pressure needs to be checked. The clutch slipping could be that it wasn't adjusted properly when the engine was installed.
I mentioned the clutch slipping because I got to thinking and researching about the noises they make. I didn't think they did that so I didn't know it could be a possible cause of the noises. To clarify what I said about revving is it'll kinda knock when it is revved and when I let off/push in the clutch, and it decelerates it that's when it squeals. Engine man had it on the nose about the header comment.I just meant I don't think it was ran much at all after being put back together. Thanks very much for your input.I'll get a gage and check it out sometime this week and then post what I find out for sure.
Not trying to tell you what to but pull the tranny,install new clutch,pressure plate and throwout bearing and most of your problems will go away.If you don't know how to adjust the clutch find someone that can.
It's just the clutch!yay! Thanks again everyone!...now I have to find instructions on how to fix it.boo!lol I looked around here.someone had a link but it's d ead now Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks!you're right...I was able fuk hear where it was coming from when I was under the car and had someone help me rev it a lil. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Get Thee to Ebay and get a "Motor's" manual that covers your year of car ,up to 55 will do it. Will have enough info and pics so you can do the job. Back in the day I could pull a trans from one of these in 20 minutes. Had plenty of practice as I must have blew 20 trans in one of those old Chevy's.
Ok so I was wrong...it ended up being a rod or something...but I have another 235 now but it was still a 6volt.my car is 12v...do I have to do anything to the distributor or will it work?i've searched for the answer but found answers for everything except the dizzy.thanks in advance for any input Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you have a stock points distrubtor, it wont know if its 6 or 12 volt. (it's only a switch ) , but you will have to use a 12volt coil. The 6 volt starterr will work fine on 12volts.
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