Picked up a 401 nailhead. Was a “running” engine (of course), but purchased only having seen pics and the price was comfortable for a rebuild project. So now it’s home on a hoist, and while waiting on a buddy to bring his impact over so I can get the 400 off, I pull the plugs to have a look. All is well until the fourth plug which has some rusty looking moisture in the gap. I shine a light in the plug hole and can see some rusty droplets at the opening, inside the cylinder. Pop the carb off, see more rust, pop the intake, and then see the heads full of water... I did some preliminary searching on here and elsewhere, found some good tips, however I’m hoping I can get a little more/as much info on what I can do, what not to do, what to expect, and EVERYTHING in between. I am by all means a newbie. The way I learn is by doing, which is why I started this project…I suppose now its a lesson in buying through the internet, sight unseen. Like I said, this is a rebuild project so it was going to have some solid time invested regardless, but this was quite the unexpected discovery and now I’m shaking my head and kicking my ass a little bit. I turned the engine slightly when playing with the flex plate, but haven’t anymore since the discovery cause I don’t want to dump the rest of that nasty water into the cylinders. Still need to get the trans off and get it on the stand and out of the way. Thanks for any/all help in advance guys
The carb was open to the environment to allow water into the intake? This would be my guess. Clean it up and inspect the heads for any cracks. Quite possible a valve is stuck open and water was allowed to enter the cylinder.
Yeah, thats my guess too...the intake has plenty of rust as does parts of the carb. Had an air cleaner sitting on top but for all I know it was placed there before I arrived.
The nailheads have a propensity to bend push rods and or dropping a valve. At least the early 264/322. So it is quite possible a valve is open. I recommend the heads come off to inspect the valve train. Looking to do a complete rebuild of this 401?
ditto on the water in heads from environment. looks like its not antifreeze just badly stored.dump the water spray oil into her and turn her over slow by hand with tappet covers off. if valves are opening and closeing and there is no restrictions while turning it over its probably ok. also as mentioned you should remove the heads and inspect for cracks and seat condition. this will also give you an idea on how long the water was in the heads . if the cylinder is pitted its been there a while. if its just surface rust and the cross hatching is ok a steel wool buff might be all that's required
Only way to assess the damage is to pull the heads. If the walls are pitted, time for a complete rebuild and fresh machining.
Looks like it was left outside with the air cleaner off. Take off the heads right away and dry and oil the cylinders and heads to prevent more rust. Depending how long it has been sitting like that it might be possible to save it. If the cylinders are not too badly rusted they won't even need to be bored. Just honed and new rings fitted. Slight pitting of the cylinders is not detrimental.
Excellent, thanks - sounds like the next step is to pull the heads, dry everything, cover everything w oil, and inspect cylinders for pitting while crossing my fingers that its just some light surface rust. I'll post some pics later when I get to the garage. It's looking more and more like that may be the necessary course of action. Originally the plan was to see what I was working with and do a partial rebuild if possible (if there is such a thing), but at the same time I've always stood by the "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" statement, so ultimately that may have been the outcome.
I'm not sure about the rebuild kits for the 401 but the 264/322 aftermarket timing chains are not up to snuff. Usually loose after installation. Keep your gears. Some have had to reuse the gears and the new chain will not be slack.
Some other food for thought, I know with the 264/322 aftermarket pistons can not be up to snuff either. Same with the push rods. In short, save and reuse what you can. Here is link for parts, etc. http://www.egge.com/site/?d=48&dt=1&SubCategoryId=11
Took the heads off last night...ugh, gnarly Almost lost my lunch when I saw/smelled that ecosystem. Pretty bummed. What's it going to take to salvage this project?
Get the rust removed as best you can. Start soaking the piston with light oils where they meet the cylinder walls. Might need a week or two of sitting and soaking. She'll come loose.
Looks like it was hosed off with no concern for things being open, then left and forgotten for a while, months perhaps.
I don't see the problem if its a rebuild project. Just tear it down....all questions will be answered then. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The biggest problem that you may have is the fact that it may have been outside in the winter with a cylinder full of water. I had a hemi like that with two cracked cylinders. Fill the cylinders with molasses and water for a few weeks and remove most rust and then inspect for cracks. Then either throw it away or blow it dry and let penetrating oil soak into the rings for a week and try to turn it over. Ps, I never seen a motor for sale that didn't "run good" before it was stored.
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