This is the first time I am building headers ''more like zoomies'' using the larger 2-1/4'' tubes. I have a set of 15 degree Brodix heads that I will be using in a blown Injected Alcohol setup in the new car I am building..I made the header flanges, and the center 2-1/4'' tubes overlap.........Not too sure what the correct way is to deal w/ this overlap ?......The tubes are going to come straight off the heads then angle back slightly, go thru the body and end 4'' kinda like cat wiskers or so outside the body....I can bandsaw the two center tubes and weld them length wise making a single tube all the way out, which would look neat...I am not seeing another option ?...Thanks for looking, Dave Uploaded with ImageShack.us
How about flattening your tubing the first inch or so coming off the flanges into a 'D' shape? You'd have two mirror image 'D''s (flat sides against each other) to handle the siamese situation.
X2 I would cut and weld in a flat on both pipes and weld the two flats to seal the tube to flange What does the port look like in the head?
most people use an adapter plate to transition away from that problem---comes in the kit with big tube sbc name brand headers...
Thanks for the replies...........I did think of the ideas mentioned as a possible way.....I searched for pics looking for how others have done this , but came up empty...I am never too shy to ask about better options........Thanks again, Littleman Dave
I would "D" shape the center two tubes to keep them as individual tubes, it will make better power than if you Siamese them together creating one large tube. How big is this motor? 2 1/4" is pretty big for a small block, even for a blown motor?
^^My thoughts when I read this as well. Thats a hell of a big header even for a blown small-block. I was hesitant to comment because I have no first-hand experience with blown alky combos, but man, thats pretty big.
421 cubic inch w/ 15 deg. heads......I agree w/ keeping them seperate tubes to be more optimal.......But, I also think I am a bit of a nut bag to stick this engine in this new car.....Any loss of power would probably be a ok and no big deal...It is already going to have too much after de-tuned.......We shall find out.......Dave
Mine do multiple steps from 2 to 2 1/4" and have a slip joint close to the head. They start 2" and run out a couple inches nice and straight for the flow and that is the slip joint stepping to 2 1/8th and go to 2 1/4 after the turn down. You can see the slip joint in the 2nd pic.
Could you make a transition like this? You could weld in a piece on the inside to separate the two pipes at the flange. ...got this pic off of Burns Stainless' website.
what size is the port in head looked at brodix site dave can you post photo exhaust ports you should use the flange to transtition port to headers do the headers rite the first time you know you want it perfect or it will bug you&itwill be ready for the next step in your use of this engine try & come to eagle field drags this oct...
No answer, but I'd sure like to see more of what you're working on. That teaser pic has got my mind racing.
Just the headers for the MidEngine Roadster.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=657324&highlight=littleman
The ports are D, I think they call them roof side up......I have had them covered up w/ poster board in between the head and the flanges I made up........I will take a pic when I can later and note the sizes..........Thanks for looking, Dave
Since you have a body and creating somthing new instead of a copy, my sugestion is for the center pipes to "V" (spread out) from the heads so that you have the pipes simetrical. Having the 2 center pipes that big siamized makes it hard to get any kind of angle on the ends. The headers on my car are 2 1/8 (sorry for the cover shot) and spread apart like a Chry Hemi or BB Chevy so that I could angle the pipes back. I also came out of the flange with the tube curved down and then went back up with the tube instead of coming up from the flange, First to somwhat mask the side of the engine block to make the engine look like its lower and Two- to have a natural "TRAP" so that any stones could not enter down into the heads.
I skipped making step headers due to the short length they will end up being......but do see by ding this buys me allot of room to start off with ...Thanks, Dave
I did think of the ''V''......so it would allow me to exit the pipes more evenly....By just forming a ''D'' shape on the tube ends ..say for the first 1-1/4'' would naturally make the ''V'' shape...or so I think it would spread the tubes apart..........Not sure if I would like the look of the ''V'' while looking straight down on it...eventhou it would be inside the body..........I like the trap idea as well........Thanks, Dave
Dave---Who cares what you think--- just kidding With the level of skill you are showing on this build , V-ing the tubes so that all the tubes are evenly spaced, Most people would look at it as a purpose and admire you for thinking of it
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