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Projects My '50 2-door Chevy Deluxe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1sik38coupe, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. cosmic12
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 422

    cosmic12
    Member

    I put the 700r4 in mine also. Had an older TH350, 700 with OD should be way better.
     
  2. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    So after thinking about it and looking at other builds, I think for now I am just going to use the THM400 trans, because I have it on hand and it seems to be pretty solid. The THM375 looks like it would need a rebuild first, so I'm not gonna chance using it, and breaking down.

    I'm gonna try to find a 700R4 at a good price to put into it later on, but for now I just want to get it put together and driveable without spending more than I have to.

    Went to the Viva car show this weekend and saw alot of nice rides. Got a pic of this one, which is pretty much how I would like mine to look when it's done. But I'm not gonna slam mine this low (only a 2" drop for now) And eventually I'd like to put some nice paint on it too. But this is a sweet chop and I just hope mine turns out as nice!
     

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  3. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Being at the car show Saturday really got the juices flowing! The weather was great and all I wanted to do was spend all day Sunday in the garage.

    I was able to get all the spare parts out of the interior of my car and pulled the doors off too. I put a few jacks under it and now have the body separated from the frame. Unfortunately since it was Easter and all, I couldn't get anybody to help me lift it off. But by this Friday I should be able to bribe a few buddies over with cold beers and we'll get the body lifted off and the frame moved into the garage for prep and paint!

    I wasn't really sure what all I had in there and was afraid I may be missing a few parts because the whole front clip was disassembled when I bought it. I was glad to see I had both the inner fenders and the radiator support.
     

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  4. 31-5window
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 226

    31-5window
    Member
    from Michigan

    Looks good man nice start I would go with a 700R if ur gonna drive it.
     
  5. layedout49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 483

    layedout49
    Member

    Looks like you're going in the right direction 😎
     
  6. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks, I did decide to go with a 700r4 after advice from here and talking to a bunch of old chevy guys at the local cars and coffee. I ordered it yesterday with a few upgrades, gonna run me about $1k delivered to my door. I hope to sell my 400 and 375 to recoupe some of that cash. I didn't want to spend that much but I didn't want to take a chance of putting junk in it either. Besides I got my tax return back so I have a few extra $$$ for my project!

    Thanks brother!

    I finally managed to get the body off the frame. Here's how she sits now. I have a lot less room in the garage now!!!

    And on a side note the machine shop called and my engine is ready for pickup, I gotta get this frame stripped and painted asap so I can mount up the motor.
     

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  7. thetwistedpiston
    Joined: Sep 3, 2011
    Posts: 105

    thetwistedpiston
    Member

    How did you go about getting the body off of the frame? I will be doing this in the next week or so and any pointers would be great! -Keith
     
  8. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    To start with when I got the car everything from the firewall forward was already removed and just piled inside of it, so I can't help with any of that.

    What I did with mine was first remove the rear bumper and bumper support brackets. I got under her and sprayed all the body mounting bolts/nuts with wd-40. I had already removed the steering column, so it was not in the way. I removed the brake and clutch pedals because they were still connected to the frame mounted master cylinder.

    I took off the doors and emptied everything from the inside, including removing what was left of the old front seat.

    Then I got under her again and started removing all the body mount bolts.
    If I remember correctly (I actually made a sketch to keep track of all of them but it's at home in the garage, not here in front of me), there are:
    - four in front of the firewall (two each side, passenger's and driver's)
    - two inside the cab at the front of the floor pans just before it slopes up toward the firewall, these go through the body to the inside floor boards
    -two that go into nuts welded inside of the body cross member about where the front edge of the front seat would be.
    -four (two on each side) that also go into nuts inside of a body cross member, about where the back edge of the front seat would be.
    -four (two each side again) under the rear seat, these are carriage bolts and go all the way through the body
    -two at the top of the arch of the frame above the axle, that go through into the trunk
    -and two more at the very back of the frame, which also go through into the trunk. These screw into a removable plate that's about 1"x2" that is actually inside of the frame rails.

    Oh and if you haven't taken them off, the rear shocks need to be removed because they bolt through the body inside of the trunk also.

    Then I used a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 in on each side to break the body free from the frame. There are rubber spacers in between and mine was stuck together pretty good.

    Once I had it loose all the way around, I invited two buddies and my bro-in-law over and the four of us just picked it up and carried it into the garage!! It was still a bit heavy but manageable.

    Hope this helps, good luck!
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  9. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Since it's starting to get warmer here and I really want to get moving on this frame, I decided to try to do at least something after work each night. So last night I removed the stock master cylinder and the front brake lines. I was debating on if I should replace all the hard lines too, and after a bit-o-checking right here on the H.A.M.B. it seems it's best to replace the old stock stuff for safety and piece of mind. So removing them should be tonight's project.

    I know everyone loves pics so here's a now you see it, now you don't:
    BTW, anyone need a stock 50 master cylinder?
     

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  10. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Just a quick update: My new trans came in and over the weekend I removed the stock rear axle and rear leaf springs. So I have everything taken off the frame now. I just have to start sanding and priming it. I'll post some more pics soon.
     
  11. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Got about 5 hours of work into the frame this weekend and you can't tell I did anything at all!!!! I was using the air hose to blow out the sand and dust inside of the frame and noticed little pieces of fuzz and "cotton balls" coming out of it. After a closer look I found that about 1/3 of the frame on each side, right in the middle, was packed with mice nests. So I fished a plastic shopping bag full of the stuff out of the small holes using wire coat hanger pieces bent to look like a knitting needle. Then once I had about 98% of it out, I washed it out with the garden hose, then ran air through it again to dry it. On the driver's side there is a "v" shapped plate welded inside of the frame where the steering box bolts to, so it is partially blocked. I ended up attaching a piece of bent brake line to the garden hose with a small hose clamp in order to work around that plate. Gonna paint the inside of the frame this week, since I think it's cleared out now, at least as well as I can get it.
     

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  12. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    can't get any more bare bones than that,enjoying your thread. I lost a couple projects thru a diviorce(calif). keep-on truckin ,have a good attitude,get'er done
     
  13. Cruiser
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 2,241

    Cruiser
    Member

    Your going in the right direction with out first build. Wear a mask around all the mouse dropping, it's hazardous to your health. Be careful when you chop the car things can go wrong easily. Your car doesn't have to be chop to look cool, with the family the head room is a good thing. Good luck and keep up the good work,

    CRUISER :cool:
     
  14. teddyp
    Joined: May 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,197

    teddyp
    Member

    great build keep up the good work
     
  15. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks man, losing the 38 chevy coupe was the worse thing about my divorce, besides that I'm alot happier now!!!

    Thanks, yeah that mouse stuff was pretty nasty, I'm glad I'm done with that part of it. The chop is a long ways off. I just want to get her running good and on the road first. Seems my plans change from week to week on what I'm doing with her, so who knows??

    Thanks a lot, I'm really gonna need help with the technical stuff down the road. I hope everyone will be patient and stick around to share their knowledge and experience.
     
  16. This looks good!
     
  17. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks MannyK

    Got to do a bit of work this weekend. I wanted to get the inside of the frame painted, so I taped up all the holes I wasn't going to use and started spraying.

    I used Eastwood's internal frame coating, it comes with a plastic tube that hooks to the nozzel. The tube has a little brass head on the end of it, which is suppose to spray in a 360* pattern. That way you can insert the tube into holes in the frame and cover the inside where you normally can't reach.

    I measured the exisitng holes by the length of the tube so I knew which ones to use. Then I inserted the tube as far as it would go, started spraying and slowly drew the tube back to the opening it was inserted into.

    The ad says two cans for standard car frames and three for truck frames. I don't know If I layed it down too thick or just didn't pull the tube back fast enough, but I emptied the second can with about three feet of frame left on the driver's side. So I ordered another can and now I wait...
     

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  18. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    Hey you're doing a great job! Best to you in this build and keep up the good work!
     
  19. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks Chevyman.


    Ever get the feeling someone is screwing you over??? Sorry this is going to be a long story and I'm leaving out names intentionally.

    The car came with a rear axle that the guy I bought it from said was from a 72 Nova. I figured I'd use it cause the gearing would be better for the 350/700r4 combo.

    I looked it up on the web to ID it the best I could and it does appear to be a GM 8.5" that was used in 72 Nova's.

    I wanted to put all new bearing/seals in it so I knew it'd be good and roadworthy. I don't have a press and wanted it done right, (read with no leaks).

    So I called a local driveline shop. I went to them because I had met a local guy with a 54(?) shoebox ford, and he said alot of the guys at his shop build old cars.

    First thing I did was call and ask if they could put new seals and bearings in the axle and service the pumpkin. The lady who answered the phone said "yep, no prob" So I asked "how much", She asked if it was a c-clip axle, I said "I don't know" So she said between $250 and $380 depending on if it was a c-clip or not. I thought this seemed reasonable so I told her I'd strip the brakes off it and bring the complete axle housing down soon as I could.

    So about two weeks later I take it in. There's a guy at the counter who starts writing up a slip on it and says it'll be around $580. When I ask him why so much and tell him the lady I spoke to a few weeks ago said $250-$380. He tells me, "I don't know why she told you that, The bearing kit alone is $150, and the wheel bearings and seals are another $60, plus labor, then he says she probably didn't understand what I meant." His numbers just didn't add up and I was getting a bad feeling right then but He tells me they can take a look at what I got and go from there, then he throws out some "standard shop charge as $165 plus parts." This sounded better so I gave them the axle.

    Two weeks later no word, so I call the shop and they said they guys who are working on it are at lunch or something so They'll talk with them when they get back and give me a call. That was a Thursday, when I didn't hear back, I went down to the shop on Monday.

    The guy at the counter pulls out the shop order and I see a few numbers on it: $750, $1200, $1600. And a bunch of chicken scratch I can't read. I say something like, "wow those are some big numbers, I thought I was in the $500 range." When I lean over to take a closer look, the counter guy pulls it away and steps back like he's trying to take a better look at it.

    Apparently he can't make sense of it cause he says "X___X, ain't here right now and she's the one who wrote this up." He tells me she'll be back tomorrow so I tell him to have her call me when she gets in.

    So two days later I call the shop and aske for "X___X" she tells me the axles are bad and need to be replaced. When I ask why, she says she's not sure but probably because the surface area where the bearing ride is pitted and it'll cause it to leak. Then she says she can talk to the guys who were working on it and find out for sure. So then she tells me it's $750 to fix it, $1200 something to make it a posi, and $1600 something to re-gear it cause it only has 273 gears in it.

    At this point I'm kinda pissed and not thinking real straight so I just tell her I'll call her back and let her know.

    So I talked to a few people about the 273 gears and basically get the opinions that since I'm not building a racer and mainly want to do freeway driving at 65-80mph the 273 should be fine. Then I look up some parts on-line and find I can get the rear diff bearing and seal kit for $135, and axles for $124 each.

    I give it a few days and call back. I ask how much just to do the bearings, and seals, she gives me a quote of $752.00 with the replacement axles. I ask again what was wrong with the axles and again she says they're pitted where the bearings seat. I ask how much they run and she says $125 each, then $150 for the rear diff kit, and $32 each for the wheel bearing/seals kit. So with that I figure they're being straight with me on prices and I figure the shop labor fees are between $75-$100 hour, which is pretty standard.

    At this point, not feeling good about spending so much, but feeling a bit reassured based on the parts I priced online, I tell her to go ahead and do the work and again she says it'll be $752.00 and it'll be done in a day or two.

    Today I get a call from the shop and it's a guy who says my axle is done, and I can come pick it up anytime. Then he says it's $865.00. When I ask him why the price went up, he says let me look at it a minute and see what I can do, then says okay I gave you a discount so it'll be $833.00

    I told the guy I was at work and I'd get down there when I could and hung up.

    I really feel like I'm getting screwed over at this point. Right now my plan is to go down to the shop and talk to "X___X" (the female I've been dealing with most of the time) and say, "you told me it would be $752.00 and I'm not paying a penny more. (And if I get any static, I figure I'd add: "and if that ain't enough you can keep the axle and shove it up your ass!"

    Am I wrong on this??? What do you guys think???
     
  20. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Anybody got any advice on this??? I mean, I'm sure someone has had a shop rebuild an axle for them, what's the going price? How much is too much to pay, and would it be worth it to just find a different axle and start over? Or do I just take the risk of running into the same problem somewhere else?

    I need some advice here guys....
     
  21. johnwd98
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 74

    johnwd98
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Wow! This certainly don't sound like what a well organized or reputible shop would do. I would be very careful about paying this bill and taking that axle home. Aren't S-10 axles considered 8.5 too? Easy to find and a lot cheaper then a vintage Nova. That's what I used in my 50 Fleetline.
     
  22. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    If the S-10 is the same width as the stock axle that would definitely be an option.
     
  23. johnwd98
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 74

    johnwd98
    Member
    from Minnesota

    If you use the S10 4X4 rear axle they are very close, with in a half inch close. There is a 4X4 model ZR1? with disc brakes I think, I know they are wider
     
  24. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    So is the s-10 2 wheel drive axle too narrow to use?
     
  25. ev88f
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 371

    ev88f
    Member

    Yup
     
  26. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas


    Ok, thanks. I called the local pick-a-part yesterday and they have a 96 chevy s-10 on the yard, but couldn't tell me if it's a 4x4 or not. I have to go take a look. They said it'd be $180 for the complete rear axle, so I'm gonna go check it out, if it is 4x I think I'm just gonna get it and go from there.

    Any idea what the gear ratio is for the s-10 4x4?
     
  27. johnwd98
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 74

    johnwd98
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Look in the glovebox at the RPO codes
    GU2 2:73 ratio

    GU4 3:08 ratio

    GU5 3:23 ratio

    GU6 3:42 ratio

    GT4 3:73 ratio

    GT5 4:10 ratio

    GQ1 Open Differential Rear Axle

    G80 Positraction/Locking Rear Axle
     
  28. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Cool Brother, thanks for the info
     
  29. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 132

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Wanted to post a quick update. It's been way to hot here to do anything on the car. I did manage to finish spraying the inside of the frame one evening when it dipped below 100 degrees.

    I checked the pick-a-part and the s-10 axle there was 2wd. I didn't have any luck finding a 4wd one here locally.

    I finally just decided to go to the shop and see what was going on with the nova axle I had dropped off. When I walked in the lady I had been dealing with on the phone was behind the counter. She pulled my invoice and said $774. I asked what happened to $752 and she said that was before tax. So at that point I just figured it would be better to have a completely rebuilt axle than no axle at all. So I paid the invoice, picked up my completely rebuilt axle and even got the two axle shafts they replaced.

    I must admit it looks pretty good and I am happy knowing it has all new parts. I'm still a bit peeved that I paid almost 800 bucks, but what can you do?
     
  30. nitrousnutter
    Joined: Aug 23, 2011
    Posts: 239

    nitrousnutter
    Member

    Hello mate, there are always hidden expenses when restoring old cars, you've done the best thing and got a fully rebuilt unit for a reasonable price. I love where you are going with this project, it's very similar to what I'm doing. I used a 2nd gen Camaro axle though. Keep us updated as you go, the next time I get a chance to work on mine will be next week as got a week off work so will be repairing the scuttle panel and around front windshield. :)


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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