Manual brakes and no parking brake

So, I'm used to driving with power brakes. My pontiac doesn't have power brakes, only manual brakes. The lines are all new. However, I shifted into neutral to let the car roll forward a bit(not running). When I stepped on the brakes, the car didn't stop at all. I had to push it literally all the way to the floor, and even then I didn't sense much stopping. Is this normal?
Another thing, my parking brake. When I pull the handle, it will not come on at all. Just falls back. How can I fix this so it will engage? Or should I get it looked at in a mechanic shop?

 

no, that's not normal. you say you have new brake lines..did you bleed the brakes? i'd also check to see if they are adjusted properly

 

Brakes were bled before I got it, yes.

 

I would suggest finding someone local that knows old cars and the importance of brakes.

 

I might just be exagerrating, but I'm pretty sure this is what had to be done. All the way to the floor. We'll know when I actually put a battery in and try her out. Perhaps the brakes need to be adjusted better...

 

Have it looked at by a professional before someone or something gets hurt. You don't mess around with brakes!

 

If you know how to bleed them, do it yourself, now. That way you'll KNOW they are bled. If you don't know how, find someone who does or a shop. They could be out of adjustment or a number of other things, but the first step is getting the system in shape to diagnose it.

 

Putting a battery in it will not fix the brakes any more than it will make the paint shinier. If the brakes were bled, then they need to be re bled. If they won't bleed, you need to check the master cylinder to be sure it isn't the problem. Grab a brake spoon and adjust the shoes while you're at it

 

If you don't know how to service the brakes yourself, maybe one of your friends is knowledgeable on the subject and could work through it with you, teaching as you proceed.

If you have to take it to a shop, do some research; because you probably won't find the
kind of mechanic you need down at one of the chain "Brakes/Mufflers/Tires R Us" kind of stores.

 

get it to stop before you get it to go. or you might need body work too

 

If your e-brake isn't working it is a definite sign that your shoes need adjusting, then even adjusting the cable. I would humbly suggest pulling off a wheel, then the drum and see which way the little star wheel has to turn to make them expand. A simple way to do it is to just turn the little wheel until you start to get a tiny bit of drag.

http://www.vernco.com/Brakes/id348.htm

a little OT, but there is a part in there close to the bottom about adjusting shoes with a feeler gauge, which you may or may not be able to do but if you do you can adjust them to spec.

 

What they all said !

4TTRUK

 

You might also try to find a local HAMB member, buy a six-pack or two (or four), invite them over, and ask them to show you how to adjust your brakes.
While this is an online community, sometimes it's helpful to network in the flesh.

 

Not old enough to buy alcohol

i know the battery wouldn't do anything for the brakes lol! When I get a battery, I would actually be able to drive the car, so I can see if the brakes actually work as they should.

Theres a nearby shop that's been in business for a while, not a chain. They do pretty much everything, I was recommended by my mother's boyfriend. Thank you all for the help, hope to have her driving all good by the end of this week.

 

Manual brakes should work just as well whether the car is running or not. You have no brakes. Getting it running to try them will only result in you running in to something. Not good. Get someone to help fix the brakes BEFORE you get it running. Sounds like they need to be properly bled and adjusted, at least. Good luck.
Ralph

 

Wilwood residual valves. Done.

 

??
'56 Poncho has a single master with the residual valve built in.

 

before having your car towed to a local fix anything shop go on eBay, or elsewhere, and buy a 1956 Pontiac Factory Shop Service Manual and /or a Motor's Auto Repair Manual that covers 1956. You should have one of these on hand even if you figure brakes out. as for brakes, were rubber lines replaced along with metal lines? possible too large of line was used. as said before, master cylinder could be bad. after you get repair manual, follow directions and remove and inspect condition of all brake shoes, etc. long as you have brake drums off should take them to a a place auto parts store like NAPA and have them check if they are within the correct inside measurement for use. be sure to mark drums from which wheel you took each from. also, check condition of wheel bearings while you are at it. take your time and do it all right.

 

Wilwood residual valves.

 

I have a shop manual and everything. and I saw the previous owner back it off of a trailer in reverse, stop, shift into drive, pull it into my driveway, and stop fine. Could sitting without moving for 2 or 3 weeks really cause some sort of problem?

 

Can you pump the brakes and get any pedal at all? Hate to ask a silly question, but have you checked the brake fluid level?
I have to concur with the Motors Manual suggestion above. Lots of good information you didn't even know that you didn't know. Even if you are having someone else work on the car, even a super-duper mechanic won't know all the specs off-hand for a 60 year old car.
Even without the promise of alcoholic beverages, you still might be able to persuade a HAMB member or two to swing by and help you out. You can't go two days on this board without some old codger mentioning how they would like to see some more young folks in the hobby. Remember to do all the heavy lifting, ask lots of questions, and always offer to help on others' projects.

 

Dear 56PontiacPiano,

It would have been helpful if you had stated your age, or lack of experience in your first post.

My first impression was "what a jerk". That of course was wrong, but had I known that you were just starting out in the car collecting hobby I would have taken your question more seriously. It wouldn't hurt to expand your public profile little bit so that others will know where you are coming from.

My advice now is to get someone to teach you the basics about brakes and give you a hand in fixing them. You could try U Tube, "How to fix car brakes", but be careful, there are people on there that don't know what to do and sometimes give the wrong answer.

Welcome to this forum and this hobby. You have a great car to start your journey on.

Roger

 

X2
And to add to this, the way to accurately adjust manual drum brakes is to adjust out till you LOCK the wheel, then back off till you are free again with little or no contact between shoes and drums. Usually this is about 10 clicks if the drums are round and the shoes circumference approximates that of the drum reasonably. Locking the wheel centered the shoe assembly in the drum, if your drums are round.
And ditto on the comments to fix the brakes before you drive the car.
If you don't have a pedal in static testing you sure as hell ain't gonna have any brakes with engine running, rolling or not on manual drum brakes.
All this comes from a 75 yr. old who's been adjusting brakes on cars of all brake configurations for about 60 years.

 

Haha, I'm only 16 years old, going on 17 in December. This is my first car, and will be an every day driver. I had some knowledge prior, and am learning more and more as I go along. I just want to know how it is that the brakes worked when he drove it into the drive way on june 22nd, yet now they seemed not to be doing anything. Thank you everyone for the suggestions and advice, I will figure this out

 

Well, maybe he had to push it to the floor to get it to stop when he was driving it as well. My car has manual drum brakes and even so, I get plenty of resistance halfway down, so I would check pedal adjustment once any brake fluid problem has been ruled out.

By the way, cool car. I love old Pontiacs...

 

If there is a leak somewhere, two weeks is plenty of time to loose brakes.

 

Master cylinders can fail like that.... one minute it works, the next it doesn't....

 

Get on one of the Pontiac forums and find someone local that knows your brake setup. Having someone come to you would be safer. You do realize the lug wheel studs on your car are left and right hand threads? Just heads up to prevent more problems.

 

the car is 60 years old parts are worn rusty and tired . the master could have finally went kaput , your pedal should move about 1-3 inches and be firm , but if your emergency is not working , that ussually says something is wrong with the mechanical portion of the system
, a spring might have broke and allowed the wheel cylinder to pop a seal or be pushed all the wayout and not returning if its out of adjustment , if you replaced a brake line you could have drained the master and air bound it also you have to bleed the whole system on these not just the end of the car you worked on as its one system not split like newer cars .
first look for any leaks at the back bottom of the drums , this will point out a blown wheel cylinder , 2 . check the condition of the shoes and springs and cylinders 3. adjust the brakes before moving it . save a persons life . mostly your own . 4. never assume anything . you made one smart move by asking, when in doubt ask specially on a system your life depends upon . and like others said get the manual and study it ! and read it again .

 

I drove my '60 Pontiac everywhere on manual drum brakes with no problems. Even changed hoses and bled it out. Under-floor master is a pain in the ass to get bled right because the wheel cylinders are actually higher than the master. Makes gravity bleeding impossible. Easy to get some air trapped in the lines.

Brakes are otherwise not hard to work on, you may as well take the tires off and see what shape the shoes and so forth are in, make sure nothing is leaking, etc. -

e-brake is probably disconnected for some reason, should have a series of cables to hook it up.